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Trouble with Helix

travkeeper

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This is my 3rd Helix over the last year... They all keep reading err e4 I have replaced the temp. censer in the first 2... Is this a normal thing with them???

Travis
 
This isn't really a BOI thread - have you contacted Helix about the problem? If not, that should be your first step. What is the warranty?
 
Contact Helix, I am sure they can determine the problem. If you are getting power spikes/surges on that breaker I think that it can effect thermostats. ie. if you have a room air conditioner etc. on that breaker it may cause damage.
 
I had the same exact problem with a helix brand new out of the box - I sent it in for them to look at it, and they sent it back with a clean bill of health - Hooked it back up and same thing.

I too was told it was power spike/surges that were triggering it - I sold it to someone else, and they have had no problems with it - It's a good unit, however overly sensitive - perhaps because of the area I live in.

You may have to just switch over to a different brand such as Spyder Robotics - I have a few Herpstats in the same room and on the same circuit as I did the Helix, and they give me no problems. :thumbsup:
 
Another possibility is that you have the unit too close to an unshielded florescent starter. I had a similar problem whenever the light units I had on my Vision cages turned on.

I called Helix and they said they had a fix for it, and new units should not have the problem.

Neil
 
Mike P. said:
I had the same exact problem with a helix brand new out of the box - I sent it in for them to look at it, and they sent it back with a clean bill of health - Hooked it back up and same thing.

I too was told it was power spike/surges that were triggering it - I sold it to someone else, and they have had no problems with it - It's a good unit, however overly sensitive - perhaps because of the area I live in.

You may have to just switch over to a different brand such as Spyder Robotics - I have a few Herpstats in the same room and on the same circuit as I did the Helix, and they give me no problems. :thumbsup:

I have only Helix DBS-1000's, because they work great. However, I experimented with switching the entire house to the back-up generator. The Helixes would produce that error code while trying to stay running, but could not keep working on generator power.

My electrician explained to me that the generator produces a fluctuating voltage where very sensitive electronics will not work. He said one solution would be to get a voltage regulator which is included in the higher end UPS backup systems.

I would be interested in heating from anyone which thermostats will continue working on a generator or fluctuating voltage.
 
Thankx everyone for the info... I think that is what is happing with the spike's I will just look around for another stat...

Travis
 
The question is whether the generator produces a true sine wave or a modified sine wave. If its producing a true sine wave (also known as pure sine wave) then even if the voltage is fluctuating our Herpstats should work fine. If it is a modfied sine wave like most 12-120vac inverters then you can not use any proportional thermstat. Modified sinewaves alot of time never hit zero volts like in true ac and sometimes even if they do then its too short of time at zero volts. The result is the triac controlling the heating device turns on but never off and kept in this stuck state.

Any relay based thermostat such as Johnson Controls or Ranco should work whether its a true or modified sinewave. The relay doesn't care what the voltage pattern is like going through it as it is just a mechanical switch.

Hope that helps!

Dion Brewington
Owner, Spyder Robotics
 
spyderrobotics said:
The question is whether the generator produces a true sine wave or a modified sine wave. If its producing a true sine wave (also known as pure sine wave) then even if the voltage is fluctuating our Herpstats should work fine. If it is a modfied sine wave like most 12-120vac inverters then you can not use any proportional thermstat. Modified sinewaves alot of time never hit zero volts like in true ac and sometimes even if they do then its too short of time at zero volts. The result is the triac controlling the heating device turns on but never off and kept in this stuck state.

Any relay based thermostat such as Johnson Controls or Ranco should work whether its a true or modified sinewave. The relay doesn't care what the voltage pattern is like going through it as it is just a mechanical switch.

Hope that helps!

Dion Brewington
Owner, Spyder Robotics
Dion,

I think so. I'll have to check several dictionaries first. Lol.
 
Thank you for the kind advice Spyder Robotics. I will get at least one of the simpler thermostats as an emergency backup for the incubators when on generator power.

Would it do Travis any good to complain to his power company about the sub-standard voltage in his house? Certainly he should be able to run any electronics he wants.
 
Doubt the power company would do anything. Many appliances produce electrical noise that can be fed to the rest of the house. Bad grounds, ect. Many different possible causes. One really needs an oscillioscope. Really though the device should be built to handle dirty current. I will say that RFI can be a hidden problem. Regaurdless of what thermostat you use its best to keep the probe cables and the AC cords separated by at least six inches so that any emmited noise from the AC doesn't bleed over and give the sensor a problem. Probe cables seem to make nice antenna's. :^)
 
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