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animaladventure
03-31-2003, 06:46 PM
I was wondering if some one out there could help with a problem
I am not having any luck with hatching eggs. I lost 7 ball python eggs and my childerns python just laid 7 or 8 and I am trying to incubate them but I don't know if I am doing it right. the temp.is at 87 to 89 degrees and I put them in vermiculite added water till I could squeeze it and it stayed together and then I put the eggs in it all together and I put the lid on well it has been 2 days and the eggs look deflated or something and I don't know if they are ok. if you could give any advice it would help thanks


Brian Layell

bpc
04-01-2003, 02:31 PM
Are the eggs white or off-white? Off-white means they were never any good to begin with.

animaladventure
04-01-2003, 09:02 PM
the eggs were white and they are still white so does that mean they may still be good I don't know what I am doing wrong. If there is any other things that you can think of let me know because I can use all the help I can get.

Thanks
Brian

bpc
04-03-2003, 01:57 PM
Temp sounds good. White is the color u are looking for. Keep 100% humidity and your fingers crossed.

Darin Chappell
04-03-2003, 03:40 PM
I don't know if this will work with what you have there, but here's a trick I use to keep the humidity up on my cornsnake eggs. You might try it for yourself.

I always prepare the vermiculite/perlite/sphagnum moss mixture just like you said and place the eggs in the mix where they almost completely covered (3/4 or better). However, I then place a wet/wrung out paper towel on top of the eggs. This serves three valuable functions. 1) It helps keep the humidity up on the eggs as an added barrier against evaporation; 2) It serves as a very cheap hygrometer (if the towel is dry, it's time to mist!); and 3) I can mist the towel instead of the eggs, giving them the moisture they need without direct water droplets that might encourage fungus growth.

Again, I have absolutely no experience with the species you mentioned, but I cannot imagine that this would be detrimental. Check it out with a more experience person concerning your species', and let me know if this works for you as well as it does for me and my corns!

Good luck! :cool:

MR_Jungle_Mist
04-14-2003, 11:38 AM
How are the eggs coming along? Keeping their colour? They still dimpled?

animaladventure
04-15-2003, 10:24 AM
thanks for asking I lost all 8 eggs but the good news is my burm laid 28 eggson the 11 of april so I think with your guys help and reading alot I have these set up they seem to be doing real wellof coarse it has only been 5 days but they are pretty and white and have not caved in or anything so wish me luck. The dad of this clutch is albino and the mom is normal. I had a nother female but she died I don't know if she got egg bound or what she had 37 eggs in her . I also have a yellow anaconda that should have babys any day now so thanks to those who gave me info and helped


Thanks
Brian layell

2003redneck
09-15-2003, 01:14 PM
This is some imformation I looked up for you But I had To Hack it up there are a lot of websites deeling with your problem.

INCUBATOR CONSTRUCTION
The incubator was constructed from 19mm particle board and measures 1.2m in length x 56cm high x 51cm in width. The size was calculated to accommodate the number of a particular size of container that was to be used. As the incubator was fixed to a wall, the door was hinged to the front (from the top) for easy access. The box was not ventilated in any way. As my incubator has always been kept in a room that did not suffer from extreme variations in temperature, it has not been necessary to insulate it. However, as others circumstances may change from time to time, it would not hurt to insulate the entire box, either inside or outside with styrofoam sheets.
HEATING
Incandescent light globes are used for heating and are fitted to the ceiling of the incubator. Originally one globe was above each container to apply an even spread of heat. The incubator holds 11 containers. In recent years I have reduced this to one globe over every second container, using only 5 globes. One end not having any globe directly over, has containers that I may wish to have 1-2 degrees C. lower in temperature. 15watt, normal size, incandescent globes are used and the distance between the globe and top of the egg container is approx. 30cm.
The low wattage and distance are to ensure that there is no sudden or intense application of heat. Choose the lowest wattage possible that will work up to the temperature you require in your own circumstances, but make sure that it can reach this temperature under adverse conditions. I can get away with the lower wattage because the room in which the incubator is kept never goes under 20 deg. C.
The globes are controlled by a room thermostat, IMIT TA2, which is mounted on one of the inside walls. It is placed in a position where it is not directly affected by the heat of the globes when they switch on and in a position at container height is suitable but as detailed later on is not crucial.
A pilot light is fitted to the outside wall of the incubator and connected through the thermostat to indicate when the heating is on or off. This is simply a safety check without having to regularly open the incubator.
SITE FOR INCUBATOR
The incubator should be kept in an area where it will not be unduly affected by extremes of natural weather conditions. A cooler area where the lights are required to work more often is preferred to a warmer area where temperature control may be difficult to maintain during our warmer seasons. Avoid placing the incubator on top of other heated reptile cages, if they are heated from the roof of the cage with high wattage globes etc, as the temperature emitted from the lower cage may be higher than the safety margin required for incubation.
EGG CONTAINERS.
The containers that I use are known as bread containers, originally made to hold a loaf of bread. This will give you some indication of their size and shape. The bases are coloured plastic and the removable tops are clear plastic which makes observation quite simple without having to remove the lid and regularly spray the eggs from loss of humidity. The containers are sealed and not ventilated in any way. I believe these containers are no longer available but there are many similar choices available these days.
TEMPERATURE PRE-SET AND CHECK.
It is advisable to pre-set the desired temperature in the incubator before the eggs are placed in the containers. The temperature shown on the thermostat may vary to that in the actual egg containers. I select one of the central egg containers as a permanent temperature guide for accuracy. In this container I used to fix a maximum/minimum thermometer to provide me with accurate daily readings. With the modern digital thermometers available these days I have the probe of the thermometer in the container and the body of the thermometer placed on the outside wall of the incubator for easy checking of current as well as maximum and minimum readings.
The thermostat is adjusted above the desired temperature and when the temperature in the container, as indicated on the digital reading of the thermometer, reaches the desired level the thermostat is turned down until it just clicks off and the lights cut out. The reading of the thermostat is of no interest, the reading in the container is all that counts. Check this over the next 24 hours and adjust if necessary.
HUMIDITY.
Relative humidity is kept high during incubation and I use a quantity of Vermiculite which would amount to a depth of approx. 25mm in the egg container. Water is added to the dry Vermiculite in a measured ratio of 1:1, 150gm Vermiculite to 150gm or 150ml water. This will result in almost 100% humidity. If the container lid is not regularly removed, very little additional water, if any, needs to be added during the period of incubation. If any eggs do start to ‘cave in’ during the early stages of incubation, a fine spray of water over the eggs and medium should be applied. Repeat this every couple of days, in moderation until the eggs return to their normal full shape. During the last weeks of incubation, if the eggs have not swollen considerably, they will naturally ‘cave in’ to a certain degree before hatching - I do not apply any additional moisture when this occurs. Condensation may appear on the inside of the egg containers, this is not a worry and the amount will be influenced by the outside temperature. The warmer the outside temperature, the less condensation visible. With my incubator, the coolest part of the egg container is that at the front. The condensation tends to flow in this direction and makes the Vermiculite at this end more moist than at the other which can result in larger swollen eggs at the front and drier smaller eggs at the rear. I simply rotate my containers around, front to back and back to front, once per week which evens out this flow of condensation.
INCUBATION TEMPERATURE.
My incubator, or more precisely these days, my control container (the one with the probe thermometer) is set at a maximum temperature of 32 deg. C. When this temperature is reached, the thermostat cuts out and brings the power back in again when the temperature falls to 29.5 deg. C. I can maintain 3 or 4 containers at a slightly cooler temperature i.e. those at one end without the globes directly above them. This has been a very successful range for me in incubating a wide range of reptile eggs.
I have never incubated above this temperature (32 deg. C.) but on occasions, such as power supply strikes, the temperature has fallen below the desired minimum (as low as 24 deg. C.) for short periods of time without any damage to the eggs.
One point of interest in regards to incubation temperatures was an experience with a clutch of Sand Goanna Varanus gouldii eggs (Barnett 1979). The eggs were laid by a monitor in the care of a friend of mine. We decided to incubate half of the eggs each and the ones incubated by myself using the aforementioned method and temperatures hatched in 169 - 172 days. The other eggs were being incubated at a lower temperature, unfortunately not recorded, but estimated at 24 - 25 deg. C. Only one of the three eggs survived and were not necessarily lost through lack of heating. After 10 weeks of incubation at this lower temperature, the remaining egg was given to me to place in my incubator. This egg hatched in 208 days which was 39 days longer than the ones that I incubated for the full period at 29.5 - 32 deg. C.
REMOVAL OF EGGS FROM CAGE:
I remove the eggs from the cage where they are being laid as soon as possible. Normally the eggs adhere to each other and form a clutch. Within the first 12 hours or so it is not too difficult to separate the eggs. The majority of eggs are quite soft as they are laid by the female and I prefer to leave them to dry out and ‘harden’ for approx. 30 minutes before placing them in the hatching containers. This is done in a reasonably warm area. In most cases, if you are going to weigh and measure the eggs, it would take you this amount of time anyway.
HATCHING
When the time for hatching arrives, the young reptiles make cuts in the egg shell with their egg tooth. They may not emerge from the egg immediately and in some cases remain with their head out, or emerging in and out, for several days. The snake will emerge when all or most of its egg food has been absorbed. Do not make a practice of removing reptiles from eggs simply because of impatience. On the odd occasion where it seemed that a problem was existent a reptile has been removed from an egg its umbilical cord tied and cut, antiseptic to the cut area and placed in a sterile container for several days. Some of these died as there was obviously other complications but also some survived.