Wanted: Info on Bibron Gecko [Archive]

spidergecko

03-27-2004, 10:02 PM

Here is a care sheet I wrote a while back. I hope it helps!

Bibrons Geckos
I wrote this care sheet in response to the lack of information on Pachydactylus bibronii husbandry despite the large availability of the species.

There has been some confusion about the true identity of the gecko sold as “Bibrons”. Another species very similar is P. turneri and it is presumed that this gecko is most likely the gecko sold as “Bibrons”. The easiest identifier of P. bibronii is the solid black stripes on its back. These stripes are solid V-shaped going down the back of the gecko. P. turneri has broken stripes down its back. It also does not appear to be as robust. Nonetheless, both species are very similar in husbandry so for the sake of this article, we will call both species “Bibrons”.

Anatomy/Behaviour: Bibrons geckos reach a size of 6 to 8 inches with males reaching the largest sizes. They have a triangular head and a grey-brown body. Black V-shaped stripes trail down the back and end with stripes down the tail. Males and younger geckos have white flecks on their backs, as well. They are arboreal and spend most of their time hanging from the tallest points in the enclosure. Both sexes have thick tails at the base but males are noticeably thicker. These geckos are not good geckos for the beginner. Although they are easy to care for, they do not like being handled and will actually bite the hand that holds them. Their skin is very delicate and tears easily. If you want the gecko just for viewing, Bibrons are a good choice. If you want a pet, this is not a good choice.

Enclosure: When deciding on an enclosure for your geckos, taller is always better. A 15 gallon tall aquarium makes a suitable home for a pair or trio of Bibrons. If there is a choice between a long enclosure and a tall one, choose the taller. Bibrons spend very little time on the floor. Use a screen or wire cage top to allow for lots of ventilation (these geckos have smelly droppings). The geckos will usually use the same corner of the enclosure for droppings every time so cleaning droppings is very easy.

Temperature/Humidity: Use a heat mat or heat tape on the warm end of the enclosure with a basking lamp overhead. A daytime high of 84 to 86°F and a drop to 78 to 82°F at night is suitable. These geckos are very tolerant of moderately low temperatures but very high temperatures will dehydrate the geckos and make shedding difficult. Mist the enclosure twice a week to maintain humidity. Depending on the humidity in the room, misting might need to be done everyday.

Substrate: There are a number of suitable substrates for the enclosure but keep in mind that the enclosure should remain dry between misting. Paper towel, mulch, soil, Bed-A-Beast; most substrates are acceptable. I will recommend that play sand (silica-based sand) is not a recommended substrate. Unlike quartz-based sand, silica sand is very good at “catching” in the gut and building up. This will impact your gecko and there is very little chance of recovery. Quartz sand can cause impaction, as well, but there is a higher probability that it will pass with time.

Lighting: Bibrons bask. Supply an incandescent spot light on the warm end of the enclosure. The geckos often spend the entire day attached to the glass under this lamp. Also supply a UV lamp. Repti-sun 5.0 and 8.0 are good lamps.

Furnishings: Bibrons geckos appreciate a cave to hide and lay eggs. In a 15 gallon tall enclosure, a plastic cave and a couple of long, thin driftwood lengths make a good home but you can use any item that gives the geckos a place to climb. Also supply a small bowl of water and calcium. The geckos will rarely (if ever) use these but they are a good safe-guard.

Feeding: What don’t they eat? The bulk of the diet is crickets and mealworms. The occasional wax worm will supply fat but these must not be offered too often. They will also eat almost any garden insect you might find. They will also eat any animal small enough to fit in their mouth (including hatchlings). Generally, they are good about not eating their cage mates as long as the cage mate is at least half of the gecko’s size. But it is possible that they might eat their cage mate’s tail.

Dust the prey items with calcium every feeding and vitamins every third feeding. I prefer Rep-cal and Herptivite.

Sexing: It is very difficult to sex Bibrons geckos, especially when they are sub-adult and younger. Males tend to be significantly larger than females and have a thicker tail base. Males also have white flecks on their back. If you have a group of geckos you are unsure about, within 18 to 24 months, males will be distinct. If you have no geckos for comparison, sexing might prove difficult.

Breeding: Breeding these species is not difficult. All you need is a male and a female. Do not keep more than one male in an enclosure. Males are extremely aggressive especially around breeding time. Bibrons geckos are very vocal. At mid- to late evening, the geckos will begin their courting song which sounds like a series of squeaks. This might repeat for a few days. But at some point the female will call the male to her and he will grab her at the back of the neck to begin mating. The female will let out a very loud squeak. Mating only lasts a few minutes. If your geckos have successfully bred a first time, chances are they will continue to breed frequently and you will have more Bibrons gecko than you can handle.

Laying: About 30 days after mating the female will lay up to two hard-shelled 2 cm eggs. She can have up to 6 clutches a year. If the substrate is paper towel, she will lay under the towel. Otherwise, she will bury the eggs. These are usually laid in the same spot every time she has a clutch. The location will be obvious because the laying site will have a mound of substrate over it. Bibrons do not eat their eggs. Be careful when removing the eggs because if it is done too soon and female remembers her eggs are there, she will run back to the laying site, arch her back, and squeak at you for disturbing them.

Incubation: There are two ways to incubate. First, you can put the eggs into a dark container and leave them on a warm shelf. They will hatch in about 60 to 90 days and the hatchlings will most likely be predominantly female. Alternatively, you can use an incubator. Incubate the eggs dry at 82 to 86°C. Slight humidity (< 65%) is acceptable but not necessary. It takes anywhere from 50 to 70 days for the hatchlings to emerge. Hatchlings are good feeders and will begin eating within a few days. Small mealworms and pin-head/small crickets are a good food. Keep the babies on paper towel to avoid impaction.

Good luck with your gecko!