baby savannah monitor enclosure
 

I've read caresheet after caresheet and they all explain the enclosure needed for sub-adult to adult savannahs, but nothing stating what to start a 3-4 inch baby in. I've heard not to use all glass aquariums due to heat and humidity loss (even if screen is mostly to partially covered) so what should a little guy go in?

While I can't speak for everyone, I suspect that some will say put them in as big an enclosure as you can. You bought a Savannah monitor so my hope is you've already entertained what it means to house an adult Sav. Take it one step further and build the adult enclosure. Your monitor will thank you.

I have an adult enclosure in the works but I was told that too big of an enclosure can stress out a baby. He would not be able to catch his food before they got away and hid, but can't feed in a separate area due to avoiding frequent handling while he is acclimating.

I was told the same myth when I got my savannah monitor as well. Reality is that you can raise a hatchling in a 4'x8'x4' without issues. Hunting is healthy for them and finding a cricket in a cage is easier than finding it in the wild. Visit this site as your go-to reference for savs: http://savannahmonitor.co/

The site owner is also a member here, look into his threads about Littlefoot and Cera.

Can I keep him in a 40g or 36x21x23 vision cage ile the other cage is being built. I was apparently told all the wrong info originally and trying to correct it as fast as i can. I have experience with adult savannahs but he is my first baby. I know the 40g would hold deeper substrate and could cover screen top to hold humidity, but vision will hold humidity better is bigger but can't have as much substrate due to front sliding doors. This would only be temporary until adult cage can be finished. He is stressed and lethargic now not eating but I've only had him since Monday night. Basking spot is 115 hot side is 90 and cool side is 75. Humidity is 60% he has thick wood plank to get closer to light, hide, a shallow dish and a water dish he could fit his whole body in as well as a decorative fountain he will climb. I have handled him although I know I shouldn't. I soaked him since where I got him wasn't caring for him. I drank q bit them I left him alone. He climbed out but was freezing so I put him under his lamp.I'm just trying to reverse what was done to him before I acquired him. Suggestions?

The surface temperature of the basking spot should be at least 130 (measured with temperature gun, not standard thermometer). I'd say to use whichever cage will allow you to create a basking spot that hot. If it ends up being the 40, you're right about covering the screen top. If it ends up being the vision, fill it with dirt such that the dirt near the door is as deep as you can get it and the dirt in the back of the cage and one back corner is almost to the ceiling. If you could do it in either, I'd go with the vision becase a)it is smaller and hopefully that'll push you to finish the adult cage faster and b)it provides more privacy.

Otherwise it sounds like you're trying to cover your bases as well as possible.

I brought back that savannah and he has a vet appt Monday to make sure he is ok. I got another though who is feisty and full of life lol. I got a new bulb that raised basking temp to 130F but he prefers his hide still. I attempted small crickets today and he went after one but didn't catch it. I'm debating going to a medium cricket and see if that helps. He doesn't drink out of his dish but will lick moisture off glass after I mist him, but idk if that's sufficient enough to keep him hydrated. I don't want to push him but I know he hungry I just want to make it easy for him until he acclimates.

The most important thing you can do to promote hydration is keep the humidity up. The site I provided a link for explains it (I think) but monitors breath out water vapor just like we do. The key is to make sure that breath just as much back in. Between that, moisture they get in food, and occasional drinking he should stay hydrated enough.

He's is on 50/50 soil and play sand with 60% relative humidity. He's eating very well about 15 medium crickets a day (alternately dusted with calcium and multvitamins) the only time I saw him drink was after misting the tank he was licking droplets off the wall. He is feisty and fast but still likes to hide. I try very hard to avoiding going near him in his hideso he feels secure. I'm going to try roaches after the reptile show July 7th when I can buy some. He has shown little interest in any kind of worm. I was curious when I should try tong feeding to help build trust. I was originally told to keep handling him to "tame" him but now I understand that's wrong. I'm hoping he will calm down on his own. My buddy had one that didn't calmyet and he's over 1.5 ft.

You can start the process of tong feeding now. Put the tongs in the enclosure when you add food. Remove them after the monitor looks like he's done eating. Eventually he'll get curious and start checking out the tongs... once he's comfortable with them, then try actually using the tongs to present food to him.

I think it took my monitor 6-8 months to calm down. But he's a monitor so he still contemplates eating me. He knows that I wasn't food yesterday but perhaps today...