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I realize that tubs work great for many breeders, but it's hard to observe what's going on with a snake without being invasive (causing them stress). I'd stick with the cage she was in- every time you move a snake to a new cage, it can set them back, just as handling them can (until they are feeding regularly & easily). But maybe re-think the substrate & hides to offer a better sense of security. Substrate snakes can burrow into (like Carefresh, or even manually-shredded & "fluffed" paper towels or other clean paper) might help. You might try using substrate that is about 2" deep so she can actually tunnel. (still use "hides" though)
Water temperature: not an issue, IMO. Use cold tap water only, as hot water has contaminants from the hot water tank; it will soon reach the ambient cage temperature anyway.
She might not feel "secure" with the hides you've provided: aesthetics aren't important to the snake...feeling "secure" is. Most snakes prefer (& may NEED) hiding places that they can just squeeze into, hides that offer "back pressure" (they don't like big dramatic doorways or high ceilings...they don't read "House Beautiful", lol) and you might try offering things like the cardboard tube from paper towels with one end plugged, or any other small safe container that meets the requirements. Cardboard cannot be cleaned & must be tossed when dirty, which can be both a plus (easy) or a negative (keep an eye out for & save replacements). I like using small cardboard hides for small or baby snakes...you can modify easily & cheaply.
Handling: "...whenever I take her out..." this could very well BE the problem. Never handle a snake that isn't feeding, until it's feeding regularly & easily at least 3 consecutive times for "best results".
Mites: very hard to see, but much easier on light colored snakes. No such thing as "only a few" though: they multiply exponentially & can kill even bigger snakes from dehydration & blood loss. Vets don't have time to look everywhere...many of us use white paper towels with new snakes to help see any problems, and you should always check the water bowl closely when you see a snake soaking, as that's how they often response to the irritation & dehydration from mites. When you change the water, try running it thru a coffee filter to look for mites.
Heat: a warm area of 85-87* is needed for digestion, but keeping the whole cage at 80*+ sounds too high (no place to get away from heat*). In addition, if the "average" temperature is 85* that's telling me it's higher in places*? The smaller the cage (or tub), the harder it is to offer proper thermal gradients. While new & young snakes may need the greater sense of security, that can be remedied with substrate, hides, and even covering the cage or most sides of it so they don't see you hovering. Another thing that makes some snakes "nervous" is if they feel bass notes (vibrations) from music, tv & other human activity like doors closing. Consider that for the location of the cage...quiet location needed for this one.
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