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Old 12-30-2010, 06:15 PM   #11
Lucille
Matt

If it is going to be another year or two before you get a hot, no need to order the hook now.
I echo what Harald is saying, find out what YOU want to work with, then proceed.

Once you choose the snake you want someday to own, take time for the safety stuff: Where will it be housed? Will the room be locked? Will the cage be locked? Do you have kids in the house? What will you do if a buddy comes over and wants to handle your snake?

Check out your local hospital and make sure they have the antivenin for your type of snake. If you do get a bite, time can be of the essence.
 
Old 12-30-2010, 06:16 PM   #12
M_MULLINS
Lol sorry man. I'm probably gonna get a pygmy because of the size. Where would be a good place to buy them? The closest reptile show doesn't sell venomous snakes.
 
Old 12-30-2010, 06:26 PM   #13
M_MULLINS
I've already thought about all that stuff. It will be housed in the basement in a seperate room from my other snakes. The room itself won't be locked but the basement door will be along with the cage. I do have kids which is why the basement door & the cage will be locked. If a buddy comes over & wants to handle it my answer will be F*** NO!!, & if they want me to get it out so they can see it its not gonna happen. If they want to see it they can look at it through the glass. I haven't got a chance to call around to find a hospital that carries antivenom but when I do find one I'm gonna put the number on the tank so that when I do get bit I can call so everything should be set up by the time I get to the hospital.
 
Old 12-30-2010, 06:45 PM   #14
hhmoore
Quote:
Originally Posted by lucille View Post
Matt

If it is going to be another year or two before you get a hot, no need to order the hook now.
I'm inclined to disagree, Lucille. "NOW" isn't a requirement; but if he's interested in working with hots, he should become proficient with the tools & relearn everything from a "hands off" perspective. Even though nothing acts like a pi$$ed off rattlesnake on a hook, he should definitely get used to using hooks for routine chores - moving snakes and cage items, opening and closing cage doors, etc. If he isn't comfortable doing the mundane stuff with a hook, he's got no business putting a rattlensake on the other end of one. For the sake of safety, using hooks should be second nature by the time the venomous snake comes.

Hooks are a matter of taste, though if you are starting out, you quickly get used to what you have. Midwest makes some incredible hooks that are very lightweight. I learned with hooks made by a friend (from the shafts of old golf clubs)...they're bulky in comparison to a lot of the stuff out there, but I've been using them for nearly 20 yrs. I played around with some of the fancy stuff a few years ago, while contemplating a purchase - real nice, but they just didn't feel right to me. I stuck with my old ones.
If you have the opportunity - go to a show and try out some of the hooks that are available. Find a couple that feel good to you (I also suggest having a couple on hand - possibly in slightly different lengths, or with different shaped hooks. I'd stick with comparable items, though, so they have a similar feel). You might want to think about getting a tong, as well - I don't like them for manipulating snakes; but they're great for removing water bowls, hides, or other cage items.
18 inch hemostats are another item I'd recommend. They come in 24", but none of the ones I've seen in that size range have grooved jaws; which means that you won't have the same grip. Dropping things sucks.
 
Old 12-30-2010, 06:55 PM   #15
M_MULLINS
I was looking at a site lastnight that was from another post that sold tongs & hooks. I was originally planning on getting both so that I could move the snake & if it somehow got off the hook I could grab it with the tongs but, decided not to use the tongs for that because I don't want to grab the snake too fast & injure it.
 
Old 12-30-2010, 06:57 PM   #16
hhmoore
If you've got any venomous snakes native to your general area, the local hospitals should have (or be able to quickly access) the appropriate antivenom - as long as you are sticking with copperheads and/or US rattlesnakes.

I had typed out a post about shipping, but I'm not sure what happened (I might have closed it out instead of submitting it, when I went to eat dinner).
If you aren't buying local, be prepared for shipping costs. Delta is the only option for venomous, and DASH is preferred over cargo (DASH puts the snake on a definite schedule, so you know when it will be there. Cargo/freight goes when they have space. It's usually fairly timely, but - when that was a common option - I had a couple experiences with 2 to 3 day delays, which should be deemed unacceptable under current standards). Figure around $100-125 for DASH, plus a $25 box charge from most venomous shippers (for the specially constructed, and required, box)
 
Old 12-30-2010, 07:02 PM   #17
M_MULLINS
Ok ill just find somebody local to buy them from. The guy I get most of my snakes from can get them but he quit the snake business to take a break for a little. He was gonna teach me how to handle them with hooks but with him getting out of the business I'm gonna have to wait until he either gets back into it or I can find somebody else to teach me.
 
Old 12-30-2010, 09:28 PM   #18
BR1980
I agree 100% with what was said regaurding learning with an keeping what you are interested in. In my case it is arboreals, so I really had no interest in any of the native hots. Besides having to care for an animal you don't really want, one species really doesn't prepare you for another, they all will have their differences. On top of that, a bite from ANY viper can be potentially fatal.
Your gonna want 2 hooks at least. I prefer different leghths, and I never handle without a hook in each hand. I have a set of tongs, but I only use them to remove water dishes, ect. One thing that hasn't been mentioned that I would highly recomend is a set of tubes. When the time comes, and it will, that you have to restrain the animal for whatever reason, it's far safer for the pointy end to be in a plastic tube as opposed to your hand.
 
Old 12-30-2010, 09:45 PM   #19
M_MULLINS
Ok thanks for the info, ill make sure to get some tubes also.
 
Old 12-31-2010, 05:08 AM   #20
NocturnalNature
Twice you have mentioned "when" I get bit. That in itself is a little troubling.
Getting bit almost always involves YOU making a mistake and should not be considered an inevitable outcome. If you have already resigned yourself to being bitten mentally, the physical trauma is likely not too far ahead.
I aplaud you for taking it slow and steady as well as doing some basic research, however I would urge you to not resign yourself to eventually being bitton but rather concentrate all your efforts on understanding, practicing, and enforcing safe husbandry procedures.
Best of luck with your endeavors
 

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