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Consumer Reports Looking for, or want to leave feedback about a product? This is the place for that sort of info! |
12-20-2010, 11:58 AM
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#11
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I forgot the word, but it can hold at 1 degree intervals. So if it's set at 95 and you have the "interval" set at one degree, then it kicks on at 94 degrees and kicks off at 96. I measure right on the heat tape itself. The herpstat can be set at 0.1 degree intervals.
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12-20-2010, 12:28 PM
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#12
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I thought that they allowed for a 2-3 degree swing either way. If they can hold to the degree, then it would be fine i suppose.
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12-21-2010, 12:01 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by runyon_0509
I thought that they allowed for a 2-3 degree swing either way. If they can hold to the degree, then it would be fine i suppose.
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Yep, you can "swing" it 1 to 5 degrees I believe.
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12-21-2010, 12:36 PM
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#14
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I installed a ceiling fan to eliminate the temp differences on shelf levels.
I use Helix for my incubators but in my opinion, it's overkill for a rack system.
I don't need the night drop since all of my heater outlets are on one master timer that operates 22 outlets in my snake building.
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01-17-2011, 11:00 AM
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#15
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I went with the alife 1000. But now I can't get my flexwatt to heat up to the temps I need. This is my first time using heat tape but it seems pretty easy. The rack is kept in a little cooler part of my house so I set the temps a little higher but still won't heat up no where near hot enough. The sides and back are open on the rack for now. Could that be the problem?
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01-18-2011, 08:31 AM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattK
I went with the alife 1000. But now I can't get my flexwatt to heat up to the temps I need. This is my first time using heat tape but it seems pretty easy. The rack is kept in a little cooler part of my house so I set the temps a little higher but still won't heat up no where near hot enough. The sides and back are open on the rack for now. Could that be the problem?
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That could be part of the problem. Is it back heat or belly heat? I have the back and sides sealed up on my breeder rack with belly heat and its fine. My hatchling rack has back heat with no back or sides and has to stay on MAX heat in the winter to hit 90 degrees on the hot spot. The back heat strip on the hatchling rack is framed with aluminum "L" beams and packed with insulation (4"x4') but thats the only backing. It helps direct the heat towards the rack.
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01-18-2011, 09:47 AM
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#17
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The flexwatt is a specific wattage, yours may not be enough to do the job. Plug the flex directly into the wall for 10 minutes, that is how hot it will get MAX. if it is getting warmer than when plugged into the thermostat, the therm could be defective (but I doubt it). What is the width and wattage of your flexwatt? It will say the wattage printed in ink about every 12 inches, like 20w or 8w. You may need to insulate better.
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01-18-2011, 11:09 PM
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#18
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Its the 6ft of 11 inch tape. 20 watts per foot
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01-19-2011, 09:05 AM
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#19
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That is a pretty good size/wattage, but you will need to insulate your rack more.
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01-27-2011, 10:11 PM
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#20
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So, I put sides and a back on the rack and lined it with aluminum held by the foil tape. I out the sides and back on around 5pm and its now 10pm and the temps are still not hot enough. I think the temp of the room that the rack is in is somewhere around 70. I have the thermostat set to 100 and still in the back half of the tubs are just slightly warm. I plugged the heat tape straight into the wall and it didn't heat up as much as I thought it would. It wasn't even anywhere near unpleasant to the touch. Do I have faulty flexwatt? I got it from reptile basics. Although, I ordered an extra foot just incase and was going to cut off what I didn't need but I ended up just folding it down on the top self as belly heat instead of back heat and the temps are fine for that self. Should I just order more clip sets and cut my flexwatt and use as all belly heat?
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