how can i help my boa

Originally Posted by The BoidSmith

Steven,
Remove any cheese-like tissue with the swab and then apply the solution. Hydrogen peroxide also works well as a cleansing solution. Increase the temperature of the enclosure.

Just as an FYI to all - while hydrogen peroxide was at one time recommended in the treatment of infectious stomatitis (it really DOES do a great job at cleaning out the affected area), it has somewhat fallen out of favor due to the fact that it disrupts healthy tissue at the site and extends treatment/healing time. The shift has been toward "less active" cleaning agents and site irrigation. (Dan just showed us all that he has been doing this for awhile, lol...and honestly, I treated a snake with it myself about a year ago - then found out it was no longer the way to do it.)

Since Mike is not willing to answer this question, can you type in here what the veterinary report states? Were you ever provided with a Fedex tracking #? Do you still have it?

Thanks.

(Dan just showed us all that he has been doing this for awhile, lol...and honestly, I treated a snake with it myself about a year ago - then found out it was no longer the way to do it.)

Well…I guess that’s true. Just to give you an idea my reference is still Dr. Frye, and in all honesty I have yet to find something better!  But I’m always willing to learn. What’s the new suggestion for cleansing solutions?

Regards.

he used dhl and here is the racking #28596822052.the vet report says that he was treated for a physical examination and a cytology a 0.20 amiglyde v.1 and the c.e.t oral hygiene rinse.all to geather it came to 100.60 and he goes back again tomarrow for another shot and friday he goes back for another examination.

one more thing i noticed after treated him again is that the bottom of his stomach is milky looking.like white is this normal or is he going into shed.i will get a pic tonight.

You can get the proper tool for holding the mouth of your boa open HERE
It's called a speculum (sp) about half way down the page. they are made of a soft plastic material.

Not dissing yer Q-tip. That's much better than things I've seen some people use before. LOL

Hope your boa does better.


Ciao,
Rick

Originally Posted by The BoidSmith

Well…I guess that’s true. Just to give you an idea my reference is still Dr. Frye, and in all honesty I have yet to find something better!  But I’m always willing to learn. What’s the new suggestion for cleansing solutions?
Regards.

I have to be honest - I'm sure that when I asked my vet she told me a few options, but I don't recall. I do know that there are many that support swabbing with chlorhexidine or betadine. I don't mean to dispute what anybody's vet tells them, but I prefer something of a minimalist approach. I disagree with stressing the animal 2-3 times daily, and, since stomatitis is generally a secondary issue, I want to know what the primary is. Obviously, raising the temperature is the first step, then I clean the area (swab out any caseous matter, and depending on how extensive I will still use H2O2). I generally base followup upon what I see the first time, but typically will recheck in 2 days and repeat the process. My rationale is based solely on the amount of stress put on the animal (holding firmly, prying open the mouth, keeping it open, swabbing out the area, etc) and the idea that tissue will take longer to heal if you keep renewing the injury.

so do you think i should only use the mouth wash once a day.i was just doing what my vet Dr.Donald O. Loden was saying i should do.i did raise the temps and lower the humidity to high day 102 and cool day is 85.at night hot is 85-90 and night cool is 80-85.if i need to get the temps up higher or lower please let me know cuz i dont want the wrong temps in his cage.

In my first post, I stated that I would explain my feelings on the subject when you were done treating. In my last, I explained those feelings, prefaced by the statement that I do not want to dispute what anyone's vet tells them. I have not seen your snake. I know only what you have stated on this forum. What I said about treatment was strictly MY opinion and how I do things based on those opinions and my experiences. I am not recommending that you alter, or stray from, the plan of care your vet has instructed you to follow. I haven't done much with RTB's over the years (though I do have a few now), so I don't have much experience to guide me regarding their temperature tolerances - but MY feeling is that your daytime high temperatures are a bit extreme. 92-95` is sufficient, IMO, to stimulate the immune system/response (I use a high of about 88 with mine, normally), but if that high is what is required to maintain the overall cage temps at your desired range - so be it...they can move away if it is too hot. (if you find it constantly on the 'cool' side, you might want to consider adjusting temps a bit) If another member has other input, I would happily yield to their experience.

Originally Posted by crotalusadamanteus

You can get the proper tool for holding the mouth of your boa open HERE
It's called a speculum (sp) about half way down the page. they are made of a soft plastic material.

Not dissing yer Q-tip. That's much better than things I've seen some people use before. LOL

No offense here. Thanks for the link, I actually did not know those were made, I am going to get a couple to try out, thanks. I had a friend who would use a butter knife to open his snake's mouth, according to him every time a tooth would fall out it was because of the mouth rot(had nothing to do with the butter knife(no matter how hard I tried to reason with him)).

Steven,
Your temps are good, do not go higher, if you do you will see your boa upside down. As Harold said, your snake will sit where is best for him and you can then adjust the temps properly. If your boa is that milky white all around than it sounds like he is getting ready to shed, watch his eyes, if they cloud over than you will know for sure. Good luck and keep us posted on your snake.