does anyone have any bloods here

yeah that is alot of heat sources for one cage but i dont have a heater in my room and its in the basement.the temps in the cage are warm side 92 and the cool side is 84.the humidity will go up to about 80 when i spray the cage but after about 30-40 minutes it goes down to 30-25 i cant seem to keep it right.the uth on the warm side are 2 5g and 1 10g.the one on the cool side is a normale one for people that has a switch to go from hi-med-low.the uth were already on the cage when i bought it or else i would have gone with the big cobra matts.the ones on the cage are zoo med and the bulbs im useing are on the warm side a 60w night red bulb and the cool side a 100w normale white bulb.i turn off the white light but leave the red one on at night cause its still pretty cool in my room at night.my blood looks just like your in the last pic so maybe it will be shedding sooner then i thought you cant even see the pupils in its eyes like my boas when in shed.i will try and get some pics of the bubbles im talking about its like mites tunnled under neith its scals or something.i didnt treat for mites the guy i got it from said it use to have mites bite he got rid of them before i got it.

could a 2ft blood get stress out in a 55g cage or should he be fine.i have 2 hides water bowl and a log in the middle that has openings in the front and both sides and he seems to spend most of his time there.i was just curious if he could get stressed from the cage and maybe thats why he hasnt shed yet.

Could he get stressed in a big tank? Sure. But he could just as easily be fine, too. Keep in mind that snakes are born into a world bigger than any tank we will set up for them. Larger enclosures cause problems when insufficient cover is provided with more shy individuals/species, or if live food is offered and moves to the far corner. The size of the tank should have no bearing on the shed cycle, unless it impacts proper humidity (but you know you have issues there). I wouldn't worry about the shed unless the snake gets a dry, crinkled appearance...which would mean that the skin should have come off, but didn't. Since you have been struggling with humidity, and you have had the snake for about a week - you could try soaking him in shallow water (a sterilite shoebox or food storage container would work nicely, and they can be kept right in the tank to keep them warm - be careful though, with all the heat sources you have running, you don't want to cook it.)

i tried to soak him but he just hisses at me and gets mad and then will just slither out and go back to his hide.i put luke warm water in his soaking dish but he dosent seem to like it at all.so he should be fine in a 55g for as big as he is i didnt think it would bother him but wanted to make sure.ive been watching the temps and they dont get pass 95 on the warm and 83 on the cool should these temps be fine.ive been having better luck with the humidity i put a damp(wrong out realy good)towle in his cage and it keeps the humidity up to 50-60 sense hes shedding.

my guess is that your version of lukewarm water is too warm. Mid eighties is a good temp to use, but if it feels warm to you it is probably AT LEAST mid nineties. Other than that - when your snake wants to soak, he will do it...when you want him to soak, you make him do it. That means putting him in something with a cover so he can just crawl out.
I don't remember if you ever said what type of thermometer you are using, or where you are checking the temps...but given the variety of heat sources you have running, I would recommend that you get a temp gun. They can be purchased for as little as $23-30, and are absolutely invaluable for spot checking temps. You will be able to get surface temp readings over your different UTHs, in the hides, (even check water temp) and anywhere else in the tank you want to check.

i have a acurite theremometer and it works great.i got it at wal mart for like 12 bucks and it tells the temps on the cool side and warm side with the humididty aswell.it has a probe that i put on the cool side and put the therm on the warm side.i will get a temp gun thopugh just to be safe.

neither type (gun or thermometer) really truly takes the place of the other. to do the same stuff with your thermometer, you would have to tape the probe to every surface you wanted to measure (ie. directly above each individual UTH). The gun will not tell you the high and low temperatures reached in a 24 hour period. Then again, depending on the placement of your thermometer and probe, the info you get may not be particularly useful anyway. I'm really not trying to sell you anything, but your current setup seems like a pretty inefficient way to get the job done. And, IMO, your temps (as stated) seem a bit high...but without really knowing the actual temps the snake is exposed to, it is hard to say.Does your blood ever go to the "hot" side of the tank??.

yeah he goes to the warm side and sites on top of his hide for awhile and then will go back to the log and sit there for awhile.it goes back and forth but i will get a temp gun soon and see how the temps are with that.wheres a good place to find one for a good price.

Well, seems like a good sign if he's moving back and forth and not sitting in one place all the time. Definitely get a temp gun, I have one of the $25 (PE-1?) ones and it's great. But if your blood is moving around (sitting for a bit on the hot side and going back to the cooler side), he's thermoregulating like he's supposed to But for keeping humidity up, I'd recommend covering the non-lamp-covered sections with glass... or, if you want to still use towels like you are now, soak the towels every day or every other day so they emit moisture, and rewet them when they're dry (keep a look out for mold, wash the towels if they look or smell moldy).

yeah i do that every other day.i also just put a humi hide in his tank.i used a shoe box and put lizard liter premium reptile bedding and put a hydrometer in there also.he seems to enjoy it so hope fully it will help him shed better.