Help me!

ok...well I don't want to confuse him and more than that...I don't want him to die ...

what about HPS bulbs at a good distance......we grow hydroponically and have HPS, MH and fluoro bulbs like mad....many different wattages
figures you'd say MV bulbs...and that's one of the ones that we CAN'T use for growing *lol* but if I have to buy something...then so be it

so...I have all this info you've given me filed in my noggin (and written on a peice of paper ) for when I go to the pet store tomorrow.....

Ok here is the info for those bulbs and it does not show the UVB output for them:
http://www.weedfarmer.com/cannabis/lightguide_guide.php

If you can find out the UVB output and compare it to chameleon needs it may work but I have no idea to be completely honest if they would be safe to use or not.

Chameleons need a UVB output of 290-320nm
Ref:http://www.martinsreptiles.co.uk/ukc...ngresearch.htm

Id go with the reptisun 5.0 or 10.0 on that small of a cage, the MV would get too hot if it was too close and could do more harm than good.

Here is the thread about the light study and UVB output of the different bulbs tested at the time:
http://www.faunaclassifieds.com/foru...ad.php?t=63728
http://www.faunaclassifieds.com/foru...ad.php?t=63728

Donna, post and update when you get time and let us know how the lil cham is doing? Hope things are better....

weed farmer? *lol* What on earth are you implying??

anyway....yes, for sure...I will post an update...more than likely later today.

I'm going out shopping for Peter this afternoon...

by the way....He's named Peter ...after Peter Parker (aka Spiderman *lol*) cause he has/had a habit of clinging to the roof of his cage ....

lol I just noticed the name on the link, thats funny

Hope he does better for you!

You are probably not getting it enough water. I realize that you have the bubbler dish in there but very few chameleons drink enough water from sources like this. Also, they are dinural so he won't be drinking at night. What you are seeing is evaporation. Try misting 2-3 times a day for 5-10 minutes each time. Give him plenty of time to drink and re-hydrate. The other advice you received about the plants, lights and substrate is excellent.

sorry I didn't get back last night...

anyway....Peter has an appt this afternoon with a Reptile Vet here in town

Jason....thanks man, I appreciate the advice. I do mist the cage once a day....could bump it up to twice without a problem. ......but I do actually see him drinking water as well.....I see him with his head in there drinking away and I see him sitting on the edge of his "pool" and licking off the mist that collects on his mouth

thank you all very much...
I'll update later after his doctor's appt

welp, went to the vet today and she said Peter looks real good

He's a little underweight and she thinks he may have a bit of a calcium def. ......says he needs to be out in the sun more ......and I need to force feed him some puppy food she gave me three times a day.....and she wants me to get a stool sample too. She said she felt something in his tract but it may just be constipation.....
so I'm gonna get him outside for, she said, 12 hours a week so that he can get more Vitamin D to help his body absorb the calium better.....and the force feeding till he starts eating on his own...and I need to get a heating pad for him ...she says she wants the temp in his cage a tad higher than normal until he gets well.

So wish Peter and me luck guys

OK, I would not ever ever force feed any reptile pure puppy food. There are recipes for feeding reptiles that include puppy food but not pure puppy food. Here is one that is commonly used is leopard geckos:
http://www.faunaclassifieds.com/foru...5&goto=newpost

Now, when I imported Jacksons and treated them for parasites I used Jump Start if they had problems eating after being treated for parasites and I did not "force feed" them, I placed a small amount on the top lip right at the opening of the mouth and they would want it off the lip and open the mouth, then I would squirt a small amout (maybe dime sized) into the mouth and I never lost any of them and imported close to 200 a month for several months and kept them for 60-90 days before selling any.

Force feeding will more often than not take up more enegry from the reptile fighting it than they get from what you forced them to eat and puppy food is not a good source of nutrition for a chameleon.

Id honestly try some different food items (silk worms, wax worms, grapes, greens, squash, roaches etc), natural sunlight, more mistings and better calcium if he has a calcium problem.

I mean think about it, do you like McDonalds Cheeseburgers enough to eat one every day for every meal you have, chams are no different, they do not want crickets and mealies for every meal every day. They enjoy lots of different food items and get bored with a lack of variety. That is one of the great things about veileds, they love a lot of different food items.

Im not sure how a heating pad will raise the temp in a screen cage much but you can try it. When I have to raise the cage temp inside the house I use a light fixture with a blue or red bulb at the bottom of the cage since heat rises or you can raise the temp in the room by upping the heat in the house.

Uh....I clicked on the link you gave in your last post Wendy, and it opened up the same post in a new window.....hehehehe.....whoops.