Help! Im new to hognoses and my female hasn't eaten in going on 3 months! - Page 3 - FaunaClassifieds
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Old 02-11-2018, 01:07 AM   #21
hotlips
How much time since she shed last?
 
Old 02-13-2018, 03:06 AM   #22
Saphire4260
About a month
 
Old 02-13-2018, 03:41 AM   #23
hotlips
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saphire4260 View Post
About a month
I asked because snakes that are trying to heal (recover) from something (injury etc) often shed more frequently, & a previous post implied she was shedding unusually often. It's just something to keep in mind as a symptom, it won't tell you specifically what the issue is.

You also mentioned she likes to soak in the water...which is also often (but not always) a symptom of a snake that has mites. (I think you'd have seen them on her though? Tiny dark black or reddish specks...) The soaking might also be an indication that she is too warm...especially if you're using an overhead light on a small enclosure. Have you switched to (regulated) UTH yet? Snakes need temperature options in their cages...they need to be able to choose & move between warmer & cooler temperatures as they would in the wild to regulate their body functions. Is she able to do that?
Snakes can't talk so we have to interpret what their behavior is telling us.
 
Old 02-13-2018, 04:23 AM   #24
Saphire4260
Ive only seen one shed from her in the time ive had her I had just been surprised to see ot at the time because she hadnt been eating. She does like to soak but I havent seen any mites, I gave her a pretty good look over when I bought her as well as whenever I take her out. The vet also looked her over and didnt notice any so if their there, their cant be many.

I do have a under tank heater and I have removed the heat lamp as of 3 weeks ago. She should be able to thermo regulate but I can try and make it easier for her to do so. Honestly other then the non eating she seems to act completely normal for what i would expect anyway which is why I am so confused. Do you think I should put slightly cooler water (only a little still close to room temp) in so if she does soak to cool down she can do so more efficiently? Alot of people ive talked to seem to suggest moving her back to the small 7 quart tub so Ive done that but I still have a under tank heater with the hot spots at 85ish. Its harder to make a temp gradient with these but ive been trying to keep the average temp in the bin around 80-85. Do you think thats okay? I still have 2 hides one on either side and a bowl she can soak in.
 
Old 02-13-2018, 03:30 PM   #25
hotlips
I realize that tubs work great for many breeders, but it's hard to observe what's going on with a snake without being invasive (causing them stress). I'd stick with the cage she was in- every time you move a snake to a new cage, it can set them back, just as handling them can (until they are feeding regularly & easily). But maybe re-think the substrate & hides to offer a better sense of security. Substrate snakes can burrow into (like Carefresh, or even manually-shredded & "fluffed" paper towels or other clean paper) might help. You might try using substrate that is about 2" deep so she can actually tunnel. (still use "hides" though)

Water temperature: not an issue, IMO. Use cold tap water only, as hot water has contaminants from the hot water tank; it will soon reach the ambient cage temperature anyway.

She might not feel "secure" with the hides you've provided: aesthetics aren't important to the snake...feeling "secure" is. Most snakes prefer (& may NEED) hiding places that they can just squeeze into, hides that offer "back pressure" (they don't like big dramatic doorways or high ceilings...they don't read "House Beautiful", lol) and you might try offering things like the cardboard tube from paper towels with one end plugged, or any other small safe container that meets the requirements. Cardboard cannot be cleaned & must be tossed when dirty, which can be both a plus (easy) or a negative (keep an eye out for & save replacements). I like using small cardboard hides for small or baby snakes...you can modify easily & cheaply.

Handling: "...whenever I take her out..." this could very well BE the problem. Never handle a snake that isn't feeding, until it's feeding regularly & easily at least 3 consecutive times for "best results".

Mites: very hard to see, but much easier on light colored snakes. No such thing as "only a few" though: they multiply exponentially & can kill even bigger snakes from dehydration & blood loss. Vets don't have time to look everywhere...many of us use white paper towels with new snakes to help see any problems, and you should always check the water bowl closely when you see a snake soaking, as that's how they often response to the irritation & dehydration from mites. When you change the water, try running it thru a coffee filter to look for mites.

Heat: a warm area of 85-87* is needed for digestion, but keeping the whole cage at 80*+ sounds too high (no place to get away from heat*). In addition, if the "average" temperature is 85* that's telling me it's higher in places*? The smaller the cage (or tub), the harder it is to offer proper thermal gradients. While new & young snakes may need the greater sense of security, that can be remedied with substrate, hides, and even covering the cage or most sides of it so they don't see you hovering. Another thing that makes some snakes "nervous" is if they feel bass notes (vibrations) from music, tv & other human activity like doors closing. Consider that for the location of the cage...quiet location needed for this one.
 

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