With what you posted, there are three or four things I'd suggest looking at in the immediate sense.
First, get a fecal done. If the animal has a signifigant parasite load then you can put all the food you want in the front end of it and the amount of nutrients that actually end up being digested and utilized will be low. It may or may not have a parasite load, but it's always a good first step to determine that when looking at an underweight animal.
Secondly, you didn't post any specifics about the dietary proportions. Iguanas are foliovores in nature and the bulk of their captive diet should be made up of leafy veggies, with non-leafy veggies, fruits and flowers making up a small, supplimental portion. Mix up the greens as well; collared greens, mustard greens, bok-choy, red leaf lettuce, a little romaine, very small amounts of fresh spinach on rare occasions- this should be the bulk of the diet, opinions differ slightly, but about 75-85%+ of the food by weight should be the leafy stuff.
Third, double check the environmental conditions to make sure they are all within the ideal range for the species. If the environmental conditions are off, it throws off the metabolism and again you have a situation where food may be improperly digested and the nutritional uptake is below what it should be. Temperature is the most obvious but UVB penetration and humidity are also fairly central.
Fourth, since you mentioned a "healthy" weight, I'd also suggest you start shifting the food around to encourage forage feeding behaviors as soon as possible. You didn't mention any lethargy or limited movement- in the interests of putting on healthy weight, keeping the animal active as it bulks up is worth the minimal effort on your part. By moving the food around or offering it in multiple dishes scattered around the enclosure, you encourage behaviors that are at least a little closer to natural and keep a build a decent muscle tone. It does mean that the animal will be more active and burn more calories through activity rather than simply adding mass but the weight added will be a healthier weight. An obvious exception to this suggestion would be animals who are far enough gone to have difficulty moving around the enclosure on their own; anything that underweight needs a feeding schedule and approach that's far more effort intensive on the part of the owner.
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