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02-11-2007, 12:31 PM
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#11
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Hi Mitch et al
Are you serious Mitch? You have 200 (two hundred) of these snakes and you don't know how to keep them??
Here's what I do.
Small plastic boxes for cages, about 18 X 10 x 10 inches (LxWxH). Heat pad under the cage , outside it, and a heat pad about 2 inches above the lid of the cages.
Heat pads thermostatically controlled.
About 1 inch of substrate, Aspen bark, normal room humidity. Good size water bowl, which they drink from but don't sit in.
Hide made from an upturned plastic seed tray about 9x6x1 1/2 (LxWxH) with an entry hole cut out of one side. Heavy weight on top, a bit of brick or a tile, to give them a sense of security.
Temperatures in the hide box are about 88F during the day and 83F at night.
Food is a live rat, about two weeks old, maximum weight 35 grammes. I put the rat into the snakes' hide boxes and it is gone by the next morning.
The snakes feed approximately every 6 weeks.
Hope this helps.
Guy
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02-11-2007, 01:17 PM
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#12
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Guy,
You didn't read the whole thread. Thanks for the education.
Mitch
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02-11-2007, 02:04 PM
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#13
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Hi Mitch
Sorry if I've upset you.
Is this the key point you thought I hadn't seen?;
"I'm trying to sort the feeders from the non-feeders in the 2 months following collection."
If so, all I'm trying to say is I don't think they feed too often once adult, like most snakes.
You also say "Currently, I'm tubing with Zoopreem to keep the non-feeders alive."
If you've only had them a couple months you may not need to do this.
Please get back to me.
Guy
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03-02-2007, 01:49 PM
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#14
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I have no experience with Calabars but if you are at the point where you are willing to try anything, try this. I read in a book that some snakes are afraid of the smell of rodents, so wash them in hot water with a mild detergent and rinse them off really well and offer the rodent while it is still warm and wet.
I have used this technique with perfect results on rubber boas. Good Luck
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04-16-2007, 09:06 PM
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#15
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we have a trio of calibars at the shop i work at . the male has been eating well since we got them 2 months ago using the rodent nest method . we keep all three in seperate enclosers with about 4 inches of coconut bark and we mist everyday . temps are right at 88 on one end and 78 on the other . we put a combination of 2 mouse fuzzies and 2 rat pinks under a hide and so far the male has taken between 2 and 3 feeders a week .
the females on the other hand came in with stomatitis and slight respitory infections . they have been treated and are clearing up nicely , but have not eaten yet . we tried feeding them the first couple weeks , then decided to wait till they were in better health to try again . today was the first time we have attempted to feed them again . i left the rat pink/mouse fuzzy combination in each of their enclosers this afternoon , and will know tomorrow if either female ate or not .
we are also pretty sure that both females came in gravid(the vet agrees) so this may also be part of the reason they are not eating . we are hoping and expecting that they will drop pretty soon . i'll post any updates as they happen .
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04-16-2007, 09:26 PM
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#16
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Mark,
I have used several variations of what you suggest, including recreating a rodent nest both above and below the substrate. I have created hides of various weights, sizes and shapes. I have used wood, ceramic tile and larger water bowls.
Here's what I have found. In my opinion, the problem is temperment. We have the same problems getting them to feed in West Africa. Captive Bred do not appear to exhibit the same problem. I am currently working with a large breeding colony to see if I can produce larger quantities of CB neonates.
In the meantime, tubing with Zupreem's Monitor and Tegu Diet works well. Animals are growing, appear healthy and are dropping eggs regularly.
Mitch
Mitch
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