setting up cage for a boa

Also sealers would have to be stripped and reapplied all the time. There is really no cheap way to do it (except for the tub that Chris mentioned.) Most people find that if you are going to build a cage properly you usually end up spending nearly what it costs to buy one of the cheaper brands and would have saved yourself a lot of headache. If you still really don't want to buy one new, keep your eyes open for any used caging that comes available in the classifieds or at your local reptile show.

Boa are not toys,they are living animals that depend on RESPONSIBLE
as well as constant care for their "LIFE"
Take it personal if you will,put yourself in the boa's position and I'm pretty certain you wouldn't want to be raised by "Boa"if the boa planned to build you a box or raise you in a fish tank.

Please take this animal serious and life will be good for both of you.

Originally Posted by Metachrosis

Boa are not toys,they are living animals that depend on RESPONSIBLE
as well as constant care for their "LIFE"
Take it personal if you will,put yourself in the boa's position and I'm pretty certain you wouldn't want to be raised by "Boa"if the boa planned to build you a box or raise you in a fish tank.

Please take this animal serious and life will be good for both of you.

I am by no means not taking this seriously.
And I am in no means trying to argue I apprieciate your input
But what is it your raising your Boas in? Cuz unless you have them outside or something?? Then I'm guessing you have it in a plastic box of some sort.. I just dont see that all the much difference between a glass sided aquarium and one of the plastic boaphile cages and a melamine box
Besides maybe heat retention? And I cud easily insulate the outside of a glass aqaurium

I do now know not to use wood tho because it's hard to seal off from bacterial growth

Thank you everyone for your iinputs

Just trust a lot of people with many, many years of experience. Plastic cages were the single largest advancement in my husbandry practices in my boa keeping experience. Aquariums are relics of the past, imo. They are hard to regulate temps and humidity. They are too "open" making snakes nervous, as almost every snake spends 95% of it's life hiding. I don't care about a hidebox, as I don't want my snakes to feel confined to one spot in their cage if they are nervous, I don't want my snakes to be nervous, period. You might not see what the big difference between an aquarium and a good plastic tub or cage is, but trust me, the snake that lives in it most certainly does.

Chris

Originally Posted by JCCS

Just trust a lot of people with many, many years of experience. Plastic cages were the single largest advancement in my husbandry practices in my boa keeping experience. Aquariums are relics of the past, imo. They are hard to regulate temps and humidity. They are too "open" making snakes nervous, as almost every snake spends 95% of it's life hiding. I don't care about a hidebox, as I don't want my snakes to feel confined to one spot in their cage if they are nervous, I don't want my snakes to be nervous, period. You might not see what the big difference between an aquarium and a good plastic tub or cage is, but trust me, the snake that lives in it most certainly does.

Chris

ahh makes sense.
i guess i didnt think about the snake minding the openness.
and i deff understand how plastic is going to be easier to control temp and humidity.

thanks again.
you guys have been alot of help.

now if anyone has a 322d or a 422d boaphile cage theyd like to sell just lemme know

I have couple wood cages that I use. Never had any issues except for the extra work in keeping the humidity up. There are sealers that are water based which given a chance to cure properly and given several coates will provide a finish that so far hasn't flaked, chipped or otherwise shown any signs of needing to be recoated in going on 12 yrs of constant use. SO, taking the time to do it right and not just tossing it together, CAN provide a suitable enclosure that lasts for years.

However, I cannot argue that the commercial plastic cages are FAR superior, and are also most of what I use as housing. It is well worth the money you'll spend, will last a life time if taken care of, insulates MUCH better then glass or plastic tubs, so less energy needed to keep optimal. I can't stress enough though to ditch the lamp set up. They rob humidity and add a fire risk to the equation, and depend on your snake to bask in the open in order to get warm. Belly heat like flex watt is far superior, low energy draw and hardly ever needs replacing if you treat it nicely.

What everyone said about aquariums is totally true especially for Boa. You are asking for problems if you continue to use them. They should only be considered as an emergency temporary enclosure.

Originally Posted by crotalusadamanteus

I have couple wood cages that I use. Never had any issues except for the extra work in keeping the humidity up. There are sealers that are water based which given a chance to cure properly and given several coates will provide a finish that so far hasn't flaked, chipped or otherwise shown any signs of needing to be recoated in going on 12 yrs of constant use. SO, taking the time to do it right and not just tossing it together, CAN provide a suitable enclosure that lasts for years.

However, I cannot argue that the commercial plastic cages are FAR superior, and are also most of what I use as housing. It is well worth the money you'll spend, will last a life time if taken care of, insulates MUCH better then glass or plastic tubs, so less energy needed to keep optimal. I can't stress enough though to ditch the lamp set up. They rob humidity and add a fire risk to the equation, and depend one you snake to bask in the open in order to get warm. Belly heat like flex watt is far superior, low energy draw and hardly ever needs replacing if you treat it nicely.

What everyone said about aquariums is totally true especially for Boa. You are asking for problems if you continue to use them. They should only be considered as an emergency temporary enclosure.

great info
thankyou

curious if flexwatt is all you use?
no light at all?
does that create a solid temp throughout the whole cage?
is that ok because ive been worried bout the fact that my low side is only 2-3degrees under my high side..

I use flex watt or Ultratherm. Basically they are both the same, but the Ultratherm cost a bit more because it's already wired, and sealed in a stiff plastic outer wrap which makes it pretty much water proof and increases the durability. Ultratherm can be placed in a cage safely, where flexwatt probably shouldn't be unless extra precautions are taken.

As for your temp question, about 1/3 of the cage over on the hot end sits at 91° while the cool side sits right at 71°. I just temp gunned 3 cages and that was the average. A lot of people will not like that much of a gradient, but it works for me. I believe 5 or 10° isn't much of a gradient, and doesn't offer that full range of fluctuation that they would naturally get. And I often times find them on the cool side chilling, in the coldest part of the night anyway, so that in itself should say something.

Another thing about temps, if you observe, you'll see that not all Boa like high temps. I have a couple that will avoid the hot side completely if it gets over 90° and I have one who's hot spot is 94° because any lower, and she won't leave the heat at all (damn albinos). You want them to thermal regulate themselves like nature intended. It's important for their health. So observation and adjusting may be needed to get things where your snake likes it, instead of where people tell you it should be. Recommended temps are guidelines, not absolutes.

Originally Posted by crotalusadamanteus

I use flex watt or Ultratherm. Basically they are both the same, but the Ultratherm cost a bit more because it's already wired, and sealed in a stiff plastic outer wrap which makes it pretty much water proof and increases the durability. Ultratherm can be placed in a cage safely, where flexwatt probably shouldn't be unless extra precautions are taken.

As for your temp question, about 1/3 of the cage over on the hot end sits at 91° while the cool side sits right at 71°. I just temp gunned 3 cages and that was the average. A lot of people will not like that much of a gradient, but it works for me. I believe 5 or 10° isn't much of a gradient, and doesn't offer that full range of fluctuation that they would naturally get. And I often times find them on the cool side chilling, in the coldest part of the night anyway, so that in itself should say something.

Another thing about temps, if you observe, you'll see that not all Boa like high temps. I have a couple that will avoid the hot side completely if it gets over 90° and I have one who's hot spot is 94° because any lower, and she won't leave the heat at all (damn albinos). You want them to thermal regulate themselves like nature intended. It's important for their health. So observation and adjusting may be needed to get things where your snake likes it, instead of where people tell you it should be. Recommended temps are guidelines, not absolutes.

i apologize for the never ending questions but you guys are so helpful it makes it super easy to just ask

if your only running ultratherm, to get your heat gradient are you only lining one half of the cage with ultratherm?

Not even ½. I use a 14" wide strip, running front to back (2 ft) on the 4 footers, and 2-11" strips running front to back (2 ft) on the 6 footer.