Soon to be new owner questions...

And I'm sure you're sick of seeing these types of threads, but I've looked and looked for answers. My questions are kinda specific and I didn't find answers that suited me(I'm the kind of girl that likes to make sure I have 100% of my facts straight. Oi!), so I figured I would make my questions a little to the exact point.

First of all, I'm going to a be a first time owner. I've never had a snake, but I've wanted one since I was six, but due to a mother that adamantly refused, it's not been until sixteen years later I could get one. ...Ten years of reading every thing I could get my hands on sounds like good research to me; The past several weeks I've really buckled down on my reading, though. I'm just buying a plain normal BP; Nothing fancy or extravagant. They're all beautiful to me. So here we go:

I've been considering using Rubbermaid/Sterlite for housing. It's easy to clean, easily replacable if something should go wrong and it's cheap; I'm not saying I'm cheap, but I simply don't have $200+ dollars to by a custom made enclosure. Add onto it that I'd have to buy a new one when it reaches adult size..well, it's just not sensible to me. They also retain heat and humidity much better than plain glass aquariums. But today, when looking at UTH pads, they read not to use directly on wood or plastic. I know that Rubbermaid/Sterilite is heavy duty plastic, but has anyone ever seen a UTH pad melt through one? Would it be safer to perhaps place a thin, plain ol' terrycloth towel between the two(would this also help with insulation?)?
On the tail of that, has anyone found Rubbermaid to be better than Sterilite, or vice versa? Also, while I know a good size for housing adults(or from 2.5ft, aftwards), what sizes have you found to be the best for younger BPs?

Secondly, another heating question: I'm seriously considering using UTH(hence above question), but I'm a little confused. Does one pad cover the ENTIRE bottom of the enclosure? Or do you buy one that covers 2/3s, then another for the last 1/3 hot spot? If the latter, do they have low/med/high switches so you can put the 2/3s on say, med for that belly warmth of 82-85F, and set the last 1/3s UTH on High, for the 90F hot spot? Or would it simply be better to use a full sized UTH that covers the entire bottom and then on one side maybe use a ceramic heat bulb to get the extra heat needed?

Ah, another question! I was talking with my roommate about using the ceramic bulb and how to install it: Cutting a circular hole in the lid, cover it with some metal grill and having the lamp above it. However, I had concerns: Would the metal grilling get too hot, so close to the bulb? I know BPs like to nose around lids(they are escape artists, of course!), and I'm worried that it might burn itself if it nosed up against the grilling.

Humidity: I've read up on humidity and I've read several conflicting opinions. Some people say that, as this is species that stays underground a lot, they don't need a lot of humidity. Other people, however, say that they as snakes from Africa, they're used it it and like a lot. Too much leads to scale rot, but not enough is bad as well; They shed improperly, etcetc. So which is it? Or should I stick to the general rule of thumb that if the ambient humidity inside the enclosure is at least 50-60% most of the time, and 70% at shed, they should be okay?

Feeding Time: I've already decided that I will most certainly feeding my snake killed prey; It's not worth the risk of my snake being hurt. But all these pinkies and hoppers, I get a little confused! So can anyone give me a...timeline, if you will as to what the snake should eat, for how long/weight size? Like...as a hatchling, how long will it eat pinkies? After that, what will it eat, how long? Also, is there really any benefit of eating mice over rats, or vice versa?

One more question: How long should I wait, after hatching, before purchasing the snake? The breeder I'm thinking about buying from, said she usually waits at least 3 weeks before she sells them. She at least wants to see them eat healthily(she also said this gives her time to get a first fecal test done. She breeds CBs, but she said it was better to be safe than sorry)before she sells them. Is three weeks adequate time before selling? Seems a bit short to me, but seeing as I've never purchased a hatchling, I wouldn't know.

I appologize for the long-windedness, but not only did these strike me as very specific questions that I couldn't find answers for that suited me...but I'm also a writer. It makes for an ugly combination, folks.

Thankyouthankyouthankyou for, if nothing else, taking the time to read this. Any and all information, assistance, and input will be greatly appreciated!

Originally Posted by LSama

I've been considering using Rubbermaid/Sterlite for housing. On the tail of that, has anyone found Rubbermaid to be better than Sterilite, or vice versa?

Excellent choice. I use both Rubbermaid and Sterilite. I like the Rubbermaid better because the latches that hold the lids down are better than the Sterilite ones and the sides of the lids come down farther and I've found snakes can't push their way out as easy as they can on some Sterilites. I use Sterilite in my racks, however, they don't need the lids.

Originally Posted by LSama

But today, when looking at UTH pads, they read not to use directly on wood or plastic. I know that Rubbermaid/Sterilite is heavy duty plastic, but has anyone ever seen a UTH pad melt through one? Would it be safer to perhaps place a thin, plain ol' terrycloth towel between the two(would this also help with insulation?)?

I have 2 UTHs. Both are under Rubbermaid tubs. I've not had a problem with melting, etc. I have a regular old human heating pad under three other Rubbermaid tubs w/o any problems either.

Originally Posted by LSama

Also, while I know a good size for housing adults(or from 2.5ft, aftwards), what sizes have you found to be the best for younger BPs?

A 66 quart or bigger is great for adults. For babies I'd use a 15 quart or similar.

Originally Posted by LSama

Secondly, another heating question: I'm seriously considering using UTH(hence above question), but I'm a little confused. Does one pad cover the ENTIRE bottom of the enclosure?

Never heat the whole bottom of a tank. The snake must be able to thermoregulate so you want to give him a temperature gradient to choose his own temp. One end warm and the other end not heated but will be a little cooler than the warm end.

Originally Posted by LSama

Ah, another question! I was talking with my roommate about using the ceramic bulb and how to install it: Cutting a circular hole in the lid, cover it with some metal grill and having the lamp above it. However, I had concerns: Would the metal grilling get too hot, so close to the bulb? I know BPs like to nose around lids(they are escape artists, of course!), and I'm worried that it might burn itself if it nosed up against the grilling.

Those ceramic heat emitters get HOT. I wouldn't recommend using one on a tub.

Originally Posted by LSama

Humidity: I've read up on humidity and I've read several conflicting opinions. Some people say that, as this is species that stays underground a lot, they don't need a lot of humidity. Other people, however, say that they as snakes from Africa, they're used it it and like a lot. Too much leads to scale rot, but not enough is bad as well; They shed improperly, etcetc. So which is it? Or should I stick to the general rule of thumb that if the ambient humidity inside the enclosure is at least 50-60% most of the time, and 70% at shed, they should be okay?

Give the snake a water dish large enough to completely submerge himself in. Only fill it little over half full so that when he does soak himself he won't soak the substrate too. A soaked substrate could cause blister disease and scale rot. That should do it for humidity.

Originally Posted by LSama

Feeding Time: I've already decided that I will most certainly feeding my snake killed prey; It's not worth the risk of my snake being hurt. But all these pinkies and hoppers, I get a little confused! So can anyone give me a...timeline, if you will as to what the snake should eat, for how long/weight size? Like...as a hatchling, how long will it eat pinkies? After that, what will it eat, how long? Also, is there really any benefit of eating mice over rats, or vice versa?

A BP will be able to take hoppers from the day it hatches, they are very large at hatching. I've never seen a BP small enough to need a pinky. A good feeding schedule is every 5 days or once a week. Whichever you prefer. After your snake eats, you should be able to see a lump in his belly where the mouse is. If you can't see the lump, you really need to give him a little bigger food item. As for the mice/rats debate, some people (and snakes) prefer mice over rats and vice versa. I've read that rats are more nutritious than mice but I haven't seen any data on it. Maybe someone else on this site knows more about that.

Originally Posted by LSama

One more question: How long should I wait, after hatching, before purchasing the snake? The breeder I'm thinking about buying from, said she usually waits at least 3 weeks before she sells them. She at least wants to see them eat healthily(she also said this gives her time to get a first fecal test done. She breeds CBs, but she said it was better to be safe than sorry)before she sells them. Is three weeks adequate time before selling? Seems a bit short to me, but seeing as I've never purchased a hatchling, I wouldn't know.

Since you want to feed prekilled to your snake, I'd at least wait until the breeder has the snake eating prekilled before I bought it. BPs can be finicky eaters and if they want a live mouse, they want a live mouse.

Your BP will like a hide box. I'd put two in his cage, one on the warm end and one on the cool end. Put the one on the warm end near the UTH but not over it. I have seen BPs with belly burns and the only way I could figure out it happened is that both times I saw it the person had the hide directly over the UTH.

I hope this helped you out and maybe others will answer with more info than I've provided. Good luck w/your new baby. Post pics when you get him/her. A BP was my first snake too, his name is Fluffy.

Just to add to the answers Karen gave....

I would like to say how truly important it is to KNOW YOUR TEMPS. DO NOT GUESS and do not use analog or stick on thermometers. Get a digital thermometer with a proble or a temp gun so you can easily and accurately take temps all over your enclosure. I truly can not stress enough how important proper temps are to the quality of life for reptiles.

If you don't mind buying online you can get one here for around $10 shipped.
http://www.reptilesupply.com/product...roducts_id=392

Or if you prefer you can also pick up similar digital themometers at Wal-Mart or Radio Shack.

I also suggest a thermostat for your heating devices to plug into. It makes getting your temps right very easy and it is much safer for your herps.

Good luck and I hope you really enjoy your new snake.

You're right, Shrap, I forgot to mention that.
I use an indoor/outdoor digital thermometer from Wal-Mart. I put the unit on one end. There is a wire connected to a temp. sensor that you're supposed to put outside. I put it at the other end of the enclosure. The unit has a switch so you can check the temp in or out so you'll know what the temp is at both ends of your enclosure. What's nice is it also saves the maximum and minimum temps so you can check that too.

Originally Posted by Karen Hulvey

Since you want to feed prekilled to your snake, I'd at least wait until the breeder has the snake eating prekilled before I bought it. BPs can be finicky eaters and if they want a live mouse, they want a live mouse.

The girl I plan on buying from feeds her snakes live feeders; Would it be too much of me to ask her to feed one(which I guess will be mine; Haven't asked how that process will actually take place..) prekilled? From what I understand, she gets her rats from a local, reliable, family owned pet store so I'm sure if she asked them, they would kill them for her. I'd be willing to pay for those rats, if it poses a problem..

i dunno if she would..probably if she thinks your going to buy it,, and are getting serious...Thats a great idea to ask to feed pre-killed, and see how it responds..

Karen covered everything extensively. If you are going to have just one ball python a medium-sized "Cobra" heat pad is enough for a Rubbermaid enclosure (place it underneath). Do not use Styrofoam or any other insulating material under the pad as this will cause overheating. With Rubbermaid tubs it's critical to provide enough ventilation, drill enough holes to provide with good ventilation and excess moisture to escape. Too much moisture will lead to problems. As far as mice versus rats, I like mice better.

Regards