Sounds 100% normal to me and the only true "morph" is a albino and I think there is only one in the US and it's never bred. Everything else is just a normal.
And the threat of death DOES NOT mean the animal is going into a better situation with you when you don't know how to care for it. I don't mean that offensively just speaking my truth.
Care sheet:
Savannah Monitor Care Sheet
Common Name: Savannah Monitor, Bosc Monitor
Latin name: Varanus exanthematicus
Difficulty Level: Intermediate to Advanced
Native to: The savannah monitor can be found in Sub-Saharan Africa, from Senegal to Sudan. Found north of the Congo River and in Lives in tropical
savannahs with seasonal drenching monsoons punctuating extended periods of parched weather.
Size: Typically 2.5 to 4 feet, although 5 foot specimens are known but rare.
Life span: 10 to 15 years if given proper care.
Enclosure: The best rule of thumb for this is you want at least 2 sq. foot of space for every one foot of adult monitor. That’s inside open cage space. From the top of the enclosure to the top of the substrate. A hatchling /juvenile can easily be housed in a 3’ long x 3’ deep x 3’ tall enclosure but that will not last long with proper care. Adults can and will take at least a 6’ long x 4’ deep x 4’ tall if not larger. You can build or buy a large enclosure.
Temperature: The cool side of the cage should be between 77° - 80° F, with
ambient temperatures 85° to 90° F on the hot end with basking spots that reach 120° to 140° F. Night time temperatures can fall to normal room temperature but leave the heat mat on 24 /7.
Heat/Light: A warm basking spot should be provided for this monitor by radiant light. Racks of flood /spot lamps work well for this, plan on 3 to 4 lamps at 60 to 120 watts each. Adjust the height above the basking spot to reach the ideal temperature. Supplemental heat can be supplied by large, robust heat mats such as Kane Mats. The monitor should be able to rest its entire body on the mat. You will need a Helix or some other form of heat controller!!!!! You want the heat mat to reach 100°. Ultraviolet light is not necessary.
Substrate: Dirt provides the best substrate. It needs to be deep enough to allow the monitor to construct tunnels and burrows naturally. This provides not only security, but helps with regulating humidity and temperature. Go to places like Home Depot or Lowe’s and pick up non-chemically treated soil, sand, and peat moss. Mix the soil and peat moss (add water if needed) then add the sand slowly together until it clumps in your hand but doesn’t drip. Fill the monitor's cage to a depth of two or three feet. You can also get mulch (cypress) and use that instead of dirt but be sure to have humidity gages so that you can ensure proper humidity. You can buy a mister to spray if the cage with if it’s having a problem holding humidity. By using the mulch the cage will need to be sprayed everyday. You can also spray the top of the soil to ensure it doesn’t get to dry which can strip the cage of humidity and dry out the monitor.
Environment: Humidity levels should be about 70-75% for this species. Monitors become less active in the dry season; a dry cage coupled with readily available food will lead to obesity and health problems. Logs and sticks, particularly hollow logs, provide exercise and entertainment. All monitors climb so be sure to provide logs /branches that are thick enough to be used. A large cat litter pan can be used for providing water. Live /fake plants will quickly be destroyed by a curious and active monitor and can be toxic!!!! It’s advised to not use them. If you choose to use fake plants be sure to only buy plants purely designed for reptiles.
Diet: Adult monitors can be fed a staple diet of frozen-thawed mice, rats, chicks, who fishes and shelfish and bunny kits every other day. Juvenile monitors can be raised on a diet of insects dusted with vitamin and mineral powder and appropriately sized rodents or all the adult foods chopped everyday.
Maintenance: Clean up feces and urates as soon as you notice them, inspect the cage at least once daily for cleanliness. Replace the water when it becomes soiled or dirty and scrub out the dish. The top substrate can dry out, but make sure it remains moist (not wet) underneath. Add a few buckets of water to the cage as necessary to keep the substrate slightly damp.
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