I need help from fellow ball python owners please

Originally Posted by Ophion

I did not see where you tried the bag. I would try again - put some holes and close the bag. Of course he wants to find his way out. The mouse is annoying and that is the point - irritating to the point he eats. Thats likely why 12 hours with the live one made no difference - they were separated most of that time in that space. made the difference for some of my noneaters (who were 40g hatchlings) Sometimes it isn't wait until he wants it - that day doesn't always happen. You don't want to stress him but you may have to get him a bit aggravated. I do think every 3 days is too often, give him 5. He may be thin but it makes no difference if all those attempts are doing nothing anyway.

You may not like anything smaller but it's what he may need. I wouldn't change much at this point, but remember breeders don't always do things because of space or money but do it because it works for the animals. Ball pythons don't need or want space. It is no harder to heat a 6qt than it is a 15qt. Small heat pad and thermostat - any heat should be on a thermostat anyway.

I feel like a part of the problem may be that i already moved him from his tank to the 15 qt tub so like you said it may do more harm to switch him again at this point. I will take your advice and try the bag method again next time i try and feed him. Someone suggested i try a rat pinky, do you think i could leave him overnight with one of those in the bag? Also i fear you are correct in saying that the day may not come when he wants to eat, this raises my arguably most important question of will these snakes refuse until death simply because he may not be satisfied with his cage?

I doubt a rat pinky will work at this time unless that is what he was on before. Rat pinkies don't move much and usually it isn't enough to spark interest or agitate.

I would believe he was probably eating when you got him, but probably not strong enough or consistent enough to make the stressful transition. I would believe the housing complications, changes and close feedings just compounded the issues. Unfortunately the sad answer to your question is, yes, some will give up the ghost because something just isnt right. Usually, hopefully that does not happen to often especially with those actively attempting to help them. Give him some settle time, leave him be and try again after the 5 days.

Originally Posted by Ophion

I doubt a rat pinky will work at this time unless that is what he was on before. Rat pinkies don't move much and usually it isn't enough to spark interest or agitate.

I would believe he was probably eating when you got him, but probably not strong enough or consistent enough to make the stressful transition. I would believe the housing complications, changes and close feedings just compounded the issues. Unfortunately the sad answer to your question is, yes, some will give up the ghost because something just isnt right. Usually, hopefully that does not happen to often especially with those actively attempting to help them. Give him some settle time, leave him be and try again after the 5 days.

I contacted the breeder and after offering to take the snake back and re-establish him.. He suggested i switch it up with a rat pink. He was feeding on hoppers in the care of his breeder. I will not let him give up the ghost here and would play god and force/assist/tube feed before i let him accept death. At what point do those options realistically become the next necessary step?

Not seeing the snake I cannot say when I would realistically start assist feeding him, though does not seem long enough yet. However, with the breeders offer to take him back for a bit I would do that before assist feeding him. It may be stressful to transfer him again, but much less than assist feeding. He had the snake feeding before so it is a realistic option to consider.

Originally Posted by Ophion

Not seeing the snake I cannot say when I would realistically start assist feeding him, though does not seem long enough yet. However, with the breeders offer to take him back for a bit I would do that before assist feeding him. It may be stressful to transfer him again, but much less than assist feeding. He had the snake feeding before so it is a realistic option to consider.

Here are photos of my beautiful and sadly skinny boy Ivan. I am quite reluctant to give him back to be "re-established" but i just want to do what is best in the healthiest and most natural way possible for him. he spends most of his time trying to escape his 15 qt tub much like when he was in a larger cage. I have never had a problem feeder so his size is quite alarming to me.

again he is roughly 8 weeks old and currently 56 grams.

What do you guys think?

I can't really comment on his weight, being a boa person myself, but he does look thin. If it was me I think I'd take up the breeders offer just to give yourself some breathing space.

That is very thin and light for his age. I've had hatchlings fresh out of the egg at 70 grams on a regular basis, and he's only 53! At this point I would probably assist feed or even tube feed, if you're comfortable with the latter.

Originally Posted by Helenthereef

I can't really comment on his weight, being a boa person myself, but he does look thin. If it was me I think I'd take up the breeders offer just to give yourself some breathing space.

I know the offer seems like a better course of action but i dont really know what he could realistically do that i haven't tried. I will have to try and feed him next week and base the next move on how that goes. I appreciate you and everyone elses input and advice