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02-13-2005, 07:40 PM
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#1
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Problem eater bp, need help!
My ball python used to be a great eater, but lately she has been refusing meals. First she was eating f/t adult mice, rat hoppers and baby rabbits. She ate those fine and one day i didn't have any frozen animals so i fed her a live mouse, she ate it and was fine. The next week i fed her froxen and she ate it fine. Three weeks ago she refused her first meal, and hasn't eaten since. I thought maybe she just didn't want mice/rats/rabbits, so i went out and bought a gerbil to see if she would except that, since ive read that it can get them back on feed. It didn't. I just need some advice on how to get her eating again. If anyone has any ideas, shoot me an email at Abby_214@msn.com
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02-13-2005, 09:05 PM
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#2
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Three weeks isn't long enough to get worried yet. I've got some that haven't eaten in a couple months.Give her 2-3 weeks off without even offering food, and then put a f/t in and leave it overnight. It could be the weather, because even though they are in climate controlled cage they can still feel changes in barometric pressure. I am convinced of this, as I have the worst time getting anyone here to eat when a new weather front is moving in! Just be patient, she will eat when she feels hungry.
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02-13-2005, 10:06 PM
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#3
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My friends bp went 16 months without a meal and has no obvious side effects to his health other than mild weight loss (though 16 months is a LONG time without food). One day he just decided it was time to start eating again. Another friend of mine, hers went 11 months without eating.
3 weeks is NOTHING. I agree to give her a few weeks without even offering, but one thing I will suggest (and someone correct me if I'm wrong here) but mixing it up like that really isn't the best thing for your snake. Snakes often prefer one meal over another (rats vs mice, frozen vs live, etc) and if you're constantly offering a different meal, it could be part of the reason why she's suddenly decided not to eat... or it could be something as simple at "that time of year".
Give it some time... she'll eat. If she still won't eat in a few months, then you can try things like the gerbil pee trick, chicken broth, etc... but if you do it to soon, your snake might refuse a regular meal unless it's been rubbed in the pee. LOL
Tricky eaters them balls can be.
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02-14-2005, 04:48 AM
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#4
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I'd agree with the above two posters. Just provide fresh water, and keep an eye on her weight. As long as she isn't losing much weight, and is drinking regularly, she should be fine. One thing you may want to check, however, is her cage temps. I'd verify that nothing's changed there. If you're not using a digital thermometer or a temp gun, get one or the other and verify that her basking spot is maintaining a good temp. Temps can fluctuate with room temps and due to equipment issues, so worth checking periodically.
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02-14-2005, 03:23 PM
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#5
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I'm not going to rehash what was very well put by the previous posters. One other reason is that if it's a she, and already taking small rabbits she's might be getting into breeding mode. Females usually eat strongly before breeding season, and then just quit when they are getting close to ovulation. Let her be. If all environmental conditions are right she will start feeding again when she is ready. The other option is get her a mate!
Regards
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02-14-2005, 03:55 PM
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#6
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Good news guys, this morning she ate a f/t baby rabbit! I am so happy! Also, I want to get her a mate, but i don't know if i should keep it in her cage or in a seperate tank. Also, what size tub is a good size for a full grown bp, both sexes? what is a good bedding, i use coconut shavings. where can i get a male who would be a good size for her? she is about 31" long right now. when would be a good time to breed her according to her size? thank you for giving me the tips on feeding.
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02-14-2005, 04:23 PM
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#7
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good news
Good news, she ate a f/t baby rabbit this morning! I am so happy! well, i have lots of questions for you all. I want to get a mate for her, but i don't know what size i should get, and i am debating on if he should get a whole seperate cage, or if he should live with her. also, what size tub is good for adult bps and breeders? how do i set a tub up for a bp with a lamp fixture?
where can i get a male bp for less than $50? how do i sex a bp? i am guessing mine is a female, because her head is larger, not as round, also her spurs aren't very noticable. i have also tried to "pop" her and nothing poked out. sometimes she opens her cloaca too. well, if you have anymore tips for me that would be great! thanks for the ones you have given on feeding.
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02-14-2005, 06:12 PM
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#8
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Quote:
I want to get a mate for her, but i don't know what size i should get, and i am debating on if he should get a whole seperate cage, or if he should live with her.
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You will need separate enclosures if you want to have better breeding success.
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also, what size tub is good for adult bps and breeders?
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There are probably as many preferences as breeders. I have had good success using 30 quart Rubbermaid tubs for an adult female.
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how do i set a tub up for a bp with a lamp fixture?
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You will need a thermometer inside the tub to “calibrate” the distance from the lamp to the tub that will give you an adequate temperature. I would rather use flex-watt (with a rheostat) or a “cobra” heat mat.
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where can i get a male bp for less than $50?
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Unless you know the person real well I wouldn’t go for a $50 ball python. You will be more than likely buying a WC with all associated problems.
Don’t worry about it. Go with a reputable breeder and ask for a male. You can rest assured you will receive a male. No one is going to send you a female instead, they go for close to three times as much.
Quote:
i am guessing mine is a female, because her head is larger, not as round, also her spurs aren't very noticable. i have also tried to "pop" her and nothing poked out. sometimes she opens her cloaca too. well, if you have anymore tips for me that would be great! thanks for the ones you have given on feeding.
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Maybe before even thinking about buying a male you should be 100% certain yours is a female. Sexing on outside dimorphism is very unreliable, particularly with ball pythons. The best way to do it would be to find a knowledgeable individual that will probe “her” for you.
Good luck!
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02-15-2005, 09:01 PM
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#9
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I'm going to add that you shouldn't be attempting to pop snakes unless you've been taught how by someone who's knowledgeable, as there is a possibility of harming the snake. For that matter, you're probably better off having the snake probed anyway, as it's more accurate. If you have an experienced reptile vet, you can have your snake sexed by the vet, and it shouldn't be too much.
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02-15-2005, 09:05 PM
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#10
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Oh, and to illustrate what Dan was saying about not using external characteristics for sexing, half of my female juvies have bigger spurs than my male who's twice their size.
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