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Feed, Caging, Supplies & Services Discussions concerning the feeding requirements of any of our critters, the cages they need to live in while in our care, and all of the supplies and services needed to do this right. |
05-10-2011, 05:13 PM
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#21
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And once it ignites, a thermostat won't stop the fire. You are hoping to keep temps low enough that it won't ignite.
Temp spike may be a result of of spark causing the ignition of a fire. If that happens, you're out of luck.
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05-10-2011, 05:38 PM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suzuki4life
You realize you said the same thing twice right?
I personally think the issue is that moisture gets in and causes a short. It can get old and brittle and burn on its own like regular wiring does. I personally feel sealing it off out of sight is a super bad idea because it will burn over time and become a fire ball if not caught.
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I don't get what you mean by me saying the same thing twice. I just was stating that some people say its ok to cover, others don't. I feel it should be covered, sealed, away from moisture etc. To each there own. We find out a lot in this industry that what works for some may not work for others.
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05-10-2011, 09:32 PM
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#23
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So if the flexwatt is covered and sealed, where do you place the probe to get the right temps? I as well think that flexwatt works better without air exposure. When I left the back open on my ball python rack I couldnt get the tape to heat up very much. I added a back to it and compressed the flexwatt and it heated up a great deal.
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05-11-2011, 07:44 AM
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#24
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I made a hatchling rack earlier last year and I ran a strip of 4" x 4' straight up and down and framed it with aluminum. Because air was exposed to both sides, it did not get hot enough and every shelf had fluctuations and different temps. I went back and packed the opposite side with insulation board and wrapped that same side with aluminum tape leaving only the one side exposed. The temps are now consistent and where I need them. I can say for a fact that flexwatt works a lot better when sealed on at least one side from my own experience. It gives the heat a direction to go and literally "radiates." So that's one idea I would suggest, maybe placing it on the inside wall.
As for it being completely sealed, I can see that being a problem for sure at max temps, but flexwatt is already sealed in plastic. At a low enough temp, I wouldn't see it being a problem to further insulate it. I would seal it with a temp probe inside though to make sure you are staying in an optimal range.
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05-11-2011, 09:01 AM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattK
So if the flexwatt is covered and sealed, where do you place the probe to get the right temps? I as well think that flexwatt works better without air exposure. When I left the back open on my ball python rack I couldnt get the tape to heat up very much. I added a back to it and compressed the flexwatt and it heated up a great deal.
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There is an impression or groove in the wood, the probe sits right on the flex watt. This allows me to control EXACT temp of flex watt.
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05-12-2011, 11:04 PM
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#26
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So if I cover the back with aluminum tape and tape it to the ceiling of the cage it should act as a rhp? I never thought of that. I would just use a rhp but tend to be a little on the pricey side. In a heat controled room if I use it on the ceiling I wouldn't have to keep it so hot that if a snake should touch it it wouldn't hurt them. I have a spare peice of 11inch 6ft long so ill give it a try and let everyone know how it goes. Thanks for all the info guys.
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05-12-2011, 11:48 PM
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#27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattK
So if the flexwatt is covered and sealed, where do you place the probe to get the right temps? I as well think that flexwatt works better without air exposure. When I left the back open on my ball python rack I couldnt get the tape to heat up very much. I added a back to it and compressed the flexwatt and it heated up a great deal.
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Heat tape produces the same heat either way. You are seeing the difference between conduction and convection.
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05-12-2011, 11:50 PM
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#28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Focal X
I made a hatchling rack earlier last year and I ran a strip of 4" x 4' straight up and down and framed it with aluminum. Because air was exposed to both sides, it did not get hot enough and every shelf had fluctuations and different temps. I went back and packed the opposite side with insulation board and wrapped that same side with aluminum tape leaving only the one side exposed. The temps are now consistent and where I need them. I can say for a fact that flexwatt works a lot better when sealed on at least one side from my own experience. It gives the heat a direction to go and literally "radiates." So that's one idea I would suggest, maybe placing it on the inside wall.
As for it being completely sealed, I can see that being a problem for sure at max temps, but flexwatt is already sealed in plastic. At a low enough temp, I wouldn't see it being a problem to further insulate it. I would seal it with a temp probe inside though to make sure you are staying in an optimal range.
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you controlled, isolated and insulated the environment. The heat tape worked the same way.
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05-12-2011, 11:52 PM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattK
So if I cover the back with aluminum tape and tape it to the ceiling of the cage it should act as a rhp? I never thought of that. I would just use a rhp but tend to be a little on the pricey side. In a heat controled room if I use it on the ceiling I wouldn't have to keep it so hot that if a snake should touch it it wouldn't hurt them. I have a spare peice of 11inch 6ft long so ill give it a try and let everyone know how it goes. Thanks for all the info guys.
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Aluminum tape in conjunction with your idea spells disaster.
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05-13-2011, 05:35 PM
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#30
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yeah i didnt put much thought into that at the time.lol
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