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11-22-2010, 03:45 PM
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#1
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Sick Water monitor
Hello, i just bought a baby Water monitor at the Bradenton repticon and at the time he seemed ok both eyes open and very alert. After a day his one shut closed shut and barely opened while the other was open but kinda oozing out clear watery liquids. After i came home today both eyes are shut closed and he slowly moves around. Does anyone know what is going wrong and what i can do to fix this.
Spec's
20 long aquarium
1 100watt basking bulb
Exo-tera XL water bowl
Cypress mulch.
Also i have a baby ornate nile in there to see if they would get along but the nile was getting stressed out so i moved him to another cage. The nile is still fine and nothing wrong with him.
Hope someone knows whats wrong and can help.
Thanks,
Tommy
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11-22-2010, 10:07 PM
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#2
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First and foremost NEVER EVER MIX SPECIES!! This has potentially just killed both your monitors.
Niles - From Africa
Water - From Indonesia /Asia
Your nile could have made the water extremely sick even fatally so. Species being mixed can transmit diseases and illnesses that normally wouldn't hurt one of their own but another species it can make very ill and kill.
A fight could have happened and you missed it. Just cause you don't see wounds and blood doesn't mean there isn't injury.
Secondly. What are the temps? Humidity???
What specs you have posted is extremely vague.
How big is the water?
Also a 20 gallon long is WAY WAY WAY to small for a baby water let alone another animal in with it.
Care sheet:
Water Monitor Care Sheet
Common Name: Water Monitor, Asian Water Monitor
Latin name: Varanus salvator
Difficulty Level: Advanced
Native to: Water Monitors are native to Southeast Asia, from Bengal to the
Philippine Islands and even into Indo-Australian islands. They are such good
swimmers that they are known to travel by water to other islands and continents.
In places where they are common, local people may hunt them for meat, skins, or
for use in religious ceremonies.
Size: Typically 6 to 7 feet but they have been known grow as large as 9 feet long
and weigh over 70 pounds.
Life span: 15 to 25 years
General appearance: The Water Monitor is a long lizard with a very long, whip-
like tail, and stout, sturdy legs for running, leaping, climbing, and swimming.
They are generally darkly colored, brown or black, with a spattering of blacks and
deep browns. They have a few yellow spots on their underbellies that disappear as
they age but some have been known to maintain the high yellow colors as adults.
Water Monitors weigh between one and three kilograms and can grow up to three
meters in length. The large scales over their heads and the smaller scales on their
backs are keeled. Males are generally much larger than females, often twice the
size.
Specific Care Information: Water Monitors kept in close quarters will fight!!!! Be
sure to provide double the cage space when housing two Waters together if not
more!
Housing requirements:
Enclosure: The best rule of thumb for this is you want at least 2 sq. foot of space
for every one foot of adult monitor. That’s inside open cage space. From the
top of the enclosure to the top of the substrate. A hatchling /juvenile can easily
be housed in a 6’ long x 4’ deep x 5’ tall enclosure but that will not last long
with proper care. Adults can and will take at least an 9’ long x 8’ deep x 8’ tall
enclosure or even a room sized cage. You can build or buy a large enclosure.
Temperature: The cool side of the cage should be between 75° - 80° F, with
ambient temperatures 85° to 90° F on the hot end with basking spots that reach
120° - 130°. Night time temperatures can fall to normal room temperature but
leave the heat mat on 24 /7.
Heat/Light: A warm basking spot should be provided for this monitor by
radiant light. Racks of flood /spot lamps work well for this, plan on 3 to 4 lamps,
depending on enclosure size, at 60 to 120 watts each. Adjust the height above the
basking spot to reach the ideal temperature. Supplemental heat can be supplied
by large, robust heat mats such as Kane Mats. The monitor should be able to
rest its entire body on the mat. You will need a Helix or some other form of
heat controller!!!!! You want the heat mat to reach 100°. Ultraviolet light is not
necessary but can be used.
Substrate: Dirt provides the best substrate. It needs to be deep enough to allow
the monitor to construct tunnels and burrows naturally. This provides not only
security, but helps with regulating humidity and temperature. Go to places like
Home Depot or Lowe’s and pick up non-chemically treated soil, peat moss and
sand. Mix together peat moss and soil. Slowly add sand (add water if needed)
until it clumps in your hand but doesn’t drip. Fill the monitor's cage to a depth of
two or three feet. You can also get mulch (cypress) and use that instead of dirt but
be sure to have humidity gages so that you can ensure proper humidity. You can
buy a mister to spray if the cage with if it’s having a problem holding humidity.
By using the mulch the cage will need to be sprayed everyday. You can also
spray the top of the soil to ensure it doesn’t get to dry which can strip the cage of
humidity and dry out the monitor.
Environment: Humidity levels should be about 75 - 80% for this species. Logs
and sticks, particularly hollow logs, provide exercise and entertainment and are
a MUST for this species. All monitors climb so be sure to provide logs /branches
that are thick enough to be used. A large cat litter pan can be used for providing
water. Live /fake plants will quickly be destroyed by a curious and active monitor
and can be toxic!!!! It’s advised to not use them. If you choose to use fake plants
be sure to only buy plants purely designed for reptiles.
Diet: This is a species that needs to be fed everyday! Adult monitors should be
fed a staple diet of frozen-thawed mice, rats, chicks and bunny kits everyday.
Juvenile monitors can be raised on a diet of insects dusted with vitamin and
mineral powder and appropriately sized rodents everyday.
Maintenance: Clean up feces and urates as soon as you notice them, inspect the
cage at least once daily for cleanliness. Replace the water when it becomes soiled
or dirty and scrub out the dish. The top substrate can dry out, but make sure it
remains moist (not wet) underneath. Add a few buckets of water to the cage as
necessary to keep the substrate slightly damp.
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11-22-2010, 10:09 PM
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#3
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Nile monitor care sheet
In case you need this one to
Nile Monitor Care Sheet
Common Name: Nile Monitor
Latin name: Varanus niloticus
Difficulty level: Advanced
Note: If you have less then 3 years consecutive monitor keeping, you should
think twice about owning a Nile Monitor: These are large, powerful lizards that
almost never calm down. Their paranoid attitude leads them to see their keepers
as threats all their lives, and they have no hesitation about defending themselves
with blows from their tail, ripping with their talons, or bone-crushing bites from
their vice like jaws - not to mention projectile defecation and regurgitation on
their perceived aggressor.
Native to: Africa, from Egypt to South Africa. Found anywhere there is water.
Size: Nile Monitors are typically 4 to 6 feet, although 8 foot specimens are known
but rare.
Life span: 10 to 15 years if given proper care.
General appearance: The Nile monitor is a large, powerful lizard with a long neck
and tail. Large powerful limbs are equipped with long talons. A flattened ridge
down the back of the tail helps in swimming. A blue-purple forked tongue darts
in and out of the mouth when the Nile monitor is in motion or interested. The
ground color varies from white to yellow-green, with markings of gray to black
forming a band across the eyes, hashes crossing the mouth, chevrons down the
neck, bands of spots across the body, spots on the limbs, and rings around the
tail. Usually, you will see its threat display - an expanded neck pouch, arched
neck, body held high off the ground, tail cocked to deliver a powerful whipping
blow, and a loud hiss.
Housing requirements:
Enclosure: The best rule of thumb for this is you want at least 2 sq. foot of space
for every one foot of adult monitor. That’s inside open cage space. From the top
of the enclosure to the top of the substrate. A hatchling /juvenile can easily be
housed in a 4’ long x 3’ deep x 4’ tall enclosure but that will not last long with
proper care. Adults can and will take a room sized enclosure. You can build or
buy a large enclosure.
Temperature: The cool side of the cage should be between 75° - 80° F, with
ambient temperatures 85° to 90° F on the hot end with basking spots that reach
120° to 120° F. Night time temperatures can fall to normal room temperature but
leave the heat mat on 24 /7.
Heat/Light: A warm basking spot should be provided for this monitor by radiant
light. Racks of flood /spot lamps work well for this, plan on 3 to 4 lamps at 60
to 120 watts each. Adjust the height above the basking spot to reach the ideal
temperature. Supplemental heat can be supplied by large, robust heat mats such
as Kane Mats. The Nile monitor should be able to rest its entire body on the mat.
You will need a Helix or some other form of heat controller!!!!! You want the heat
mat to reach 100°. Ultraviolet light is not necessary.
Substrate: Dirt provides the best substrate. It needs to be deep enough to allow
the monitor to construct tunnels and burrows naturally. This provides not only
security, but helps with regulating humidity and temperature. Go to places like
Home Depot or Lowe’s and pick up non-chemically treated soil, sand, and peat
moss. Mix the soil and peat moss (add water if needed) then add the sand slowly
together until it clumps in your hand but doesn’t drip. Fill the monitor's cage
to a depth of two or three feet. You can also get mulch (cypress) and use that
instead of dirt but be sure to have humidity gages so that you can ensure proper
humidity. You can buy a mister to spray if the cage with if it’s having a problem
holding humidity. By using the mulch the cage will need to be sprayed everyday.
You can also spray the top of the soil to ensure it doesn’t get to dry which can
strip the cage of humidity and dry out the monitor.
Environment: Aim for humid-tropical air without making the cage wet. Humidity
levels should be about 75% for this species. Monitors become less active in the
dry season; a dry cage coupled with readily available food will lead to obesity and
health problems. Logs and sticks, particularly hollow logs, provide exercise and
entertainment. All monitors climb so be sure to provide logs /branches that are
thick enough to be used. A large cat litter pan can be used for providing water.
Live /fake plants will quickly be destroyed by a curious and active monitor and
can be toxic!!!! It’s advised to not use them. If you choose to use fake plants be
sure to only buy plants purely designed for reptiles.
Diet: Adult monitors can be fed a staple diet of frozen-thawed mice, rats, and
bunny kits every other day. Juvenile monitors can be raised on a diet of insects
dusted with vitamin and mineral powder and appropriately sized rodents
everyday.
Maintenance: Clean up feces and urates as soon as you notice them, inspect the
cage at least once daily for cleanliness. Replace the water when it becomes soiled
or dirty and scrub out the dish. The top substrate can dry out, but make sure it
remains moist (not wet) underneath. Add a few buckets of water to the cage as
necessary to keep the substrate slightly damp.
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