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Veterinarian Practice & General Health Issues Anything to do with veterinarians, health issues, pathogens, hygiene, or sanitation.

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Old 01-18-2012, 11:54 AM   #1
mikepanzarella
proper baytril dose

my snake had/has RI i posted about it last month now i did what you guys said and increased the humidity and heat its a ball python 2025 grams
its not making no more noises wheezing or coughing no more snot bubbles but still looks sick
eating has been fine still eats and remains active during the day
i can take it out with no problem she shows no signs of being aggressive towards me day temps are around 87 nighttime drop to 80 humidity its around 65-70%
i have baytril but i dont know if i should start to dosing or just let it be and see how things go
what do you guys think
thanks mike
 
Old 01-18-2012, 12:01 PM   #2
hhmoore
How does it look sick?
Assuming that 87 degrees is the warm end, not the entire enclosure - why are you dropping the temps at night? (I'm interested in learning your rationale before commenting)
 
Old 01-18-2012, 12:13 PM   #3
mikepanzarella
all the heat lights go off at night and they have just the under the tank heater at night and yes that is the hot end of the tank
moved from a glass tank to a neo tank they hold humidity better as i dont have a snake rack
when i take her out and listen to the breathing every now and then i hear what sounds to be a wheeze and she opens her mouth up from time to time and like to rub her head on things
 
Old 01-18-2012, 12:21 PM   #4
Focal
She could have dry shed in her nostrils if she's rubbing and making sounds. She could also be sick.

Night time drops are just adding additional stress.

None of my balls are active during the day so I wouldn't consider that a good sign. Do you have a hide near the hot spot or does she have to go out in the open to get heat during the day? This could be adding more stress.

The more stress you add, the less likely she will get better.

I would lose the heat lamp and put the heat pad on a thermostat if it's able to keep the hot spot around 90. Checking your cool side is just as important. Just because your hotspot is 80 at night, doesn't mean the cool end isn't 68, which isn't good.
 
Old 01-18-2012, 12:24 PM   #5
Focal
As for the Baytril, was it prescribed by the vet, because they should have told you the proper dosage. I would start immediately but the RI will most likely return if you don't address the problem that caused it.
 
Old 01-18-2012, 12:25 PM   #6
mikepanzarella
ill take the lamp off asap and bump the temp on the pad the cool side ill have to check tonight it shouldnt get that cold i keep the room hot and they are on top of dragons they there cool side doesnt drop past 80
 
Old 01-18-2012, 12:28 PM   #7
Focal
Sorry, I think I may have worded the heat lamp thing wrong. There isn't really much of a problem with them other than the fact that they don't supply heat at night. If you wanted to use it, another solution would be to get a second lamp with a night time heat bulb that kicks on when the day bulb kicks off.
 
Old 01-18-2012, 12:28 PM   #8
mikepanzarella
no it wasnt prescribed i have it for the dragons but i know its the same thing for snake
i just got my order of all my new medical stuff terramycin pancar baytril for a 2025 gram snake the dose should be .9cc dose x weight / concentration
 
Old 01-18-2012, 05:40 PM   #9
danthebugman
No offense, but just because you have Baytril doesn't mean that you should use it without consulting a vet. At best you could be dosing a snake that you don't need to be and at worst you could be dosing a snake with an inappropriate medication.
 
Old 01-18-2012, 06:20 PM   #10
Focal
I wouldn't treat with the baytril. Weight for weight, I doubt you'll have enough to treat the snake, yet alone the snake and dragon.
 

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