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General Herp Talk Can't figure out where to post down in the other discussion forums? Too many options and too complicated? Well post your herp related messages here and to heck with it. |
09-10-2018, 06:22 PM
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#11
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Also, right after you thaw the pinky & right before you offer it, try scraping or pinching (to damage) the pinky's nose a little bit...that will release a little more scent to the snake. You should not need to add broth or 'brain' the pinky & I agree with above posts, this snake should not be eating goldfish either.
And about feeding in the evening/night time hours- keep the lights low in the room too. If the snake is seeing too much of you moving around, you might also cover the glass on the cage front & sides with some paper (temporarily) so she can better focus on what's inside the cage (ie. the pinky). And when you move the pinky with the tongs, wiggle it very slightly. Too much motion will turn off a shy feeder, which your snake apparently is.
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09-10-2018, 07:17 PM
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#12
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One more thought: how are you thawing the pinkies?
It matters more with larger prey, since pinkies thaw so quick...but keep in mind that improper thawing can promote spoilage that may cause the food to be rejected by the snake (snakes have a much better sense of smell than we do).
Even if you grew up thawing meat for your dinner on the counter-top, here's why this is different: rodents & other prey animals fed to snakes are whole animals...their GI tract is loaded with bacteria that LOVES room temperature to proliferate (grow!). It's just like the food safety warning that's on every frozen holiday turkey: thaw in the refrigerator, or thaw in COLD water only.
I thaw all rodents fed to my snakes in cold water: the larger it is, the longer it takes, and science tells us that temperatures transfer the easiest thru water contact, not thru air (air is actually an insulator...it's why clothing that traps warm air next to your body keeps you warmer, even if it's very light weight like down, polyester fleece or thinsulate-lined).
Thawing in hot water may seem faster, but the problem is that some of the food gets warm enough to be spoiling, while the rest is still lagging behind and frozen solid. And thawing on the counter-top is just wrong...
If (& only if) you have a snake that wants their prey warm in order to strike (such as those with heat sensing pits...pythons & rattlesnakes) once the prey is thawed, you can briefly submerge it in very warm water right before offering, OR, many like to use a blow-dryer to bring the temperature up. I don't think your sand boa will care either way about the prey being warm.
The main thing is to be sure that the prey isn't spoiled.
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09-10-2018, 10:11 PM
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#13
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You’re all helping a lot I really appreciate it! I’ve been so worried to the point where I even cry because I really want her to be ok. I ordered a temp gun and thermostat for the UTH, should be here tomorrow. I want a better temperature reading than the crappy gauge that’s in the tank. Hopefully a stable temp with the thermostat will help her feel better. I have her tank in my living room, maybe I should move it to my bedroom away from the TV sounds. I will try covering up the sides of the tank for security. With all of the failed attempts some did require me to handle her so I will give her a few days alone. I also was checking to make sure she was healthy and still active etc.
I usually thaw the pink in hot water from the sink. When she refuses to eat I refrigerate the pink in a ziplock inside a Tupperware for another couple days to retry it. After two tries I would throw it away in case it goes bad; didn’t realize hot water may already make it bad. Thanks guys again you’re very helpful.
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09-10-2018, 10:26 PM
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#14
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Alexis, it sounds as if you're on the right track! However things turn out (I think they'll turn out very well once you and your snake get on the same program) you really are being a great reptile caretaker, and you should be proud of that.
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09-10-2018, 10:32 PM
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#15
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Glad you're feeling better about this - I know from experience it really helps to talk it out with others who've had the same issues. (And trust me, we've all been there with stubborn non-feeders).
Just remember that even if she doesn't eat she's not using much energy - she's not having to heat up her body and she's not moving around much, so all that happens if she doesn't eat for a while is that she'll grow more slowly.
As I understand it, Sand Boas are burrowers - do you think that your substrate is deep enough for her to burrow in? If not maybe a deeper layer would help make her feel more secure too.
Let us know how you progress, and good luck!
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09-10-2018, 10:41 PM
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#16
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with Socratic Monologue's post: in a "perfect world" your first snake would be easy to feed, and everything would go as planned. That you're still trying so hard & searching for answers bodes very well for both you and your snake. Some snakes are easier than others to start off with...but look at the bright side, we ALL learn much more from our mistakes than when everything is too easy. We've all been new keepers at one time & most of us have had difficult snakes that were made more difficult by our own inexperience. At least you've got the internet to go to...I've kept snakes for many years & I had no such source of information back then. Forums like this are a real gift, and the only "dumb question" is the one you don't ask.
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09-10-2018, 10:49 PM
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#17
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And yes, I'd move her cage away from the TV to the bedroom. Snakes can't "hear" but they feel vibrations from bass notes especially, plus the blue-screen light from electronics can interfere with our own sleep patterns, and we're much bigger (& presumably tougher) than snakes, so it may well have a negative impact on your snake, especially while she's still trying to settle in.
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09-19-2018, 11:33 PM
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#18
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GOOD NEWS UPDATE! She finally ate! I researched places that ship live pinks to no avail. Luckily someone at a pet store in my town knew of another shop an hour away that sells live feeders so I drove over there; they were out of pinks but I got a small fuzzy. She checked it out for a bit then moved away. I uncovered her and tried again and it took a bit but she eventually struck and ate the fuzzy. I'm so relieved. Thank you all for helping out it makes me feel better to have an entire forum of people that also care about animals and know how to help when needed
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09-20-2018, 12:25 AM
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#19
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Such good news - congratulations!
Persistence and patience are the keys.
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09-20-2018, 12:45 PM
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#20
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I didn't read all the replies, so I've no clue if this has been mentioned already or not, but I'd like to point out that artificial setups tend to restrict a lot of natural behaviors that herps would exhibit in the wild or in a bioactive/naturalistic enclosure. In bioactive setups, herps always display more comfort, better overall health, and they exhibit a wider range of natural behaviors. While this may or may not contribute to your eating problem, I'd definitely look into upgrading to a more natural setup that more closely mimic your sand boa's natural habitat.
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