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Old 06-06-2012, 12:29 AM   #21
rosebud945
Hun, don't guess at the temps. I think temp guns run about $25 and a digital with probe can be bought for $6-$10. He can't process his food unless his belly reaches at least 95-105 degrees and some hotter spots would be good as well.

This is what I mean by a digital with probe. You lay that probe right on the basking spot, wait 30 minutes and see what it says. Then you will know for sure and you can tweak your wattage accordingly.
http://www.herpsupplies.com/product....446&id=ZMZTH24

If you have a bit more money, this site also has infrared temp guns, which are the best means of measuring all of your temps, including your own. lol
http://www.herpsupplies.com/product....8785&id=SZMRT1

Guessing is risking his health, IMO. Temps can fluctuate too, so checking the basking temps and ambient temps on a regular basis, like when seasons change, is a good idea.
 
Old 06-06-2012, 12:46 AM   #22
mikepanzarella
if hes having problems processing food DO NOT FEED him mealworms stick to only soft bodied insects
as for what Donna said shes spot on never guess it could cost your dragons unnecessary problems
if you every find yourself with a question just ask or use the website provided by Owen
 
Old 06-06-2012, 12:57 AM   #23
OEdwards
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikepanzarella View Post
if i had to guess why hes not as long would be bad lighting or maybe hes just the runt of the litter
i have a dragon right now that is 2 years old and when i got her she was 95 grams and only about 11 inches ive had her about 6 weeks shes now up to 200 grams and has shed about 3 times i havnt checked her size
thats just how drastic it can be lol
Yeah Mike I got my girl Cynthia in January loaded with parasites it was late January she was 83 suppose to be 108 i belive now she is 475 and 16 inches and still growing
 
Old 06-06-2012, 08:44 AM   #24
G1a55Ca5k3t
Well I'm glad that Donna told me what I needed to buy in order to get the temperature. I just wasn't sure before because in everything I had read in the past people had only said that you needed the basking spot temperature but never said what type of thermometer you can use to record that with. Today I'm obviously going to be going to the store (or maybe online) and making a few adjustments to my tank thanks to all of your advice.

Owen, what do you use instead of sand? I don't notice this one eating much sand but I've notice that my adult gets it on his greens sometimes.
 
Old 06-06-2012, 09:25 AM   #25
G1a55Ca5k3t
I'm ordering the infrared thermometer now.
 
Old 06-06-2012, 09:35 AM   #26
rosebud945
Lia, I am glad you are tweaking your husbandry. When the little one starts really progressing, it will be a joy.

On substrate, I would ditch the sand for both. I have been rehabbing beardies and other lizards for awhile and I frequently have to nurse animals through elimination of sand in the GI track, which is not easy. Impactions can occur even in adults, but especially in babies. I recommend paper towels for babies because it is easier to replace daily. In adult vivs, I use paper towels or tile.

There is something else that I have started doing that is not in beardie care sheets yet, but I hope will be. I also keep and rehab chuckwallas and uros, and they need high fiber content in their diets. Like beardies, they are also from desert and semi desert environments, so much of their diet in the wild is grass, both green and dry. Uro keepers have started using Zoo med grassland tortoise pellets, crushed and sprinkled on the salad to add fiber to a somewhat low fiber content diet that is based on store bought greens. Since I have so many lizards, everyone gets the same salad and the beardies have really benefited from this addition to their diet. Your little one needs fiber to help clear the sand out of its GI track.

Here is what I am talking about. I crush the pellets in a coffee grinder, then sprinkle about 1 cup to 6 cups of chopped salad, refrigerate overnight, and feed it the next day. The beardies as well as all the omnivore and herbivore lizards here have well formed poop instead of smears and watery stools, and they have great weight and are very active.
http://www.herpsupplies.com/product....03&id=SZMZM131

About 3 times per week, everyone also gets chopped squash, yellow raw and others lightly steamed. I would avoid chard. It binds with calcium and might prevent uptake of calcium.
 
Old 06-06-2012, 12:36 PM   #27
mikepanzarella
the 4 things i use are paper towels (anything under 8-10 months)
millet,blank news paper,fiber paper these all work for me just depends on what i find 1st when running out of the other both papers show more mess but are easier to clean
ive heard wild bird seed works well also (if you sift out the larger seeds) but i havnt used it
i would keep it simple use paper towels,keep him hot,feed alot of soft bodied insects
in a month you should see him grow and get fat
also dont forget to soak him once or twice a week
 
Old 06-06-2012, 03:53 PM   #28
G1a55Ca5k3t
He's already grown a ton and it's been really fun to watch and to see his personally develop.

Regarding the tortoise food, I'll definitely start adding it! the petstore I normally goes to, I know carries it which makes that easy too. However, I don't think anywhere around here carries dubia... I'll double check of course but where do you get them from?

I do soak him, plus he has a little water dish which I catching him drinking from or crawling in sometimes.
I guess him and my adult are going to have some remodeling done.
 
Old 06-06-2012, 09:28 PM   #29
mikepanzarella
how far is vestal from long island new york i always have a ton of feeders or you can go to the food section and order from people on fauna
 
Old 06-06-2012, 11:07 PM   #30
G1a55Ca5k3t
its about 4 hours.
 

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