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Old 03-02-2018, 05:05 PM   #1
Herps Alive!
Yellow Striped Chameleon

Good afternoon. Need some wisdom of the crowd. Our rescue took in a Veiled Chameleon earlier this week. Now we are being contacted by a person claiming to be the original owner (don't worry,no drama to share) whop insists that this is a yellow striped chameleon. I am not an expert, but have kept various chameleon species for almost forty years and have never heard of this animal and apparently neither has Google. Is this a morph of the veiled, a different species or sub-species or what? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Old 03-02-2018, 07:13 PM   #2
Dyscophus antongilii
I would say, if, Google has not heard of it, I find it highly unlikely it's a species. However, if, you post a picture we might know.
 
Old 03-02-2018, 09:52 PM   #3
Herps Alive!
One has the original owner's daughter in it, so I would prefer not to post, but will get a better shot tomorrow when I am at the rescue. Here is what I am comfortable posting.
Attached Images
 
 
Old 03-02-2018, 10:12 PM   #4
Dyscophus antongilii
I would definitely like to see another picture. But, I feel that is a Chamaeleo calyptratus.
 
Old 03-03-2018, 09:19 PM   #5
Herps Alive!
Here is a better pic. I mean he does have yellow stripes, but that is like me calling my normal cornsnake a Checkerboard Ventral Corn.
Attached Images
 
 
Old 03-03-2018, 11:06 PM   #6
Dyscophus antongilii
Looks like a Chamaeleo calyptratus, to me. I completely agree on your snake analogy in the previous post.
 
Old 03-04-2018, 09:41 PM   #7
Matt Thomsen
Quote:
Originally Posted by Herps Alive! View Post
Good afternoon. Need some wisdom of the crowd. Our rescue took in a Veiled Chameleon earlier this week. Now we are being contacted by a person claiming to be the original owner (don't worry,no drama to share) whop insists that this is a yellow striped chameleon. I am not an expert, but have kept various chameleon species for almost forty years and have never heard of this animal and apparently neither has Google. Is this a morph of the veiled, a different species or sub-species or what? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Seems to be a veiled, ill toss in a veiled sheet in case ya guys need it! Veiled Parameters & Basic Equipment

- For UVB lighting as a minimum Zoomed T5 high output fixture paired with a Reptisun 10.0 of matching length for the fixture. The best would be Arcadia T5 ho 12%.They also are showing to last longer than Zoomed bulbs. (Minimum 6" to 12" inches from bulb to head level on basking sites depending on the bulb and screen type) these guys are exposed to some of the most intense UV on the planet in Yemen and really do need the best linear "desert" UVB bulbs available for optimal growth and health. *(the better quality strength UVB light you use the less you have to rely on the pharmaceutical/ artificial D3 drug which means a more natural line of husbandry)

- Basking bulbs can be regular incandescent indoor flood bulbs, I stock several 65, 75 and 100 w for seasonal room temp changes. They're pretty cheap (minimum 6" to 12" safe distance depending on the bulb and hood style) or reptile specific basking bulbs.

- Ambient day temps 70-80F
Basking spot mid to high 90's to 100F for juvi to adults.
*Temp gun to check frequently*

- A decent quality digital temp gun is key and I also like one or two digital thermometers with probes for mid cage and lower in the cage to display ambient temps. (Probed digital thermometers to show basking temps in the hot spot can be really misleading and give you false readings). Placing a cham sized non reflective/nonmetallic object under the hot spot and taking temp gun readings off of that object is going to be the most accurate way to gauge temps where the actual animal will be.

- For supplements a straight calcium product with no other ingredients no matter what for 4 to 6 days a week lightly. Then you'll have to pick a multi vitamin with safe levels of artificial D3. A few popular ones are Zoomed Reptivite with D3 or Repashy Calcium Plus with D3 (those two would be twice a month) or Repashy Low D used once a week to 3 times a month. All dusting to be lightly coated, not snowballs.

- A drip system is a great idea and cheap to make or buy. Plastic turkey basters and pipettes for hand watering are fantastic.

- Large to medium pump sprayer for occasional hand misting.

- Large to extra large Zoomed Reptibreeze screen cages are hands down the best for Veileds. Sides and back can be convered or not. The main thing is high air flow over humidity with Veileds and just random spikes of high humidity from occasional misting with lots of dry time in between. (*they still must drink frequently through other sources i.e. drip systems and/or hand watering) misting systems although really not necessary for Veileds can be used in full screen but special attention needs to be paid to drainage and extra airflow and still providing mostly dryer time for the majority of the time.

- A good mix of edible safe plants, pothos, umbrella and hibiscus and/or quality fake plants and lots of branching/vines real or fake throughout providing lots of hiding places and full shade options in the bottom 2/3 of the cage and open canopy basking sites above in the top 1/3 of the cage .

- Diet should contain the biggest variety possible with well gutloaded crickets and/or roaches for the bulk of the diet. Super worms (not meal worms), horn worms and silk worms a few times a week and wax and phoenix worms as occasional treats. *(consider that super worms and wax worms are very high in fat content and phoenix worms are extremely high in calcium)

- Substrate isn't necesasry being Veileds are canopy dwellers and them not requiring constant high humidity like the majority of species and it's definitely not recommended for new keepers. Absolutely no bark chip or chunk substrate which provides a good chance for choking hazard. Bare bottom, paper towels or pee pads work really well and pose no hazards.

- Females should have access to large lay bins at all times over 4 months of age as they can lay infertile eggs at anytime after that but usually between 6 and 12 months most commonly. Lay bins should be as large and as deep as possible. Extra large screen cages make that easy to do. For smaller screen cages the floor panel can be removed and the whole cage placed over a deep storage bin. 50/50 sand soil mixes work well or pure coco fiber. All moistened and packed down hard so it holds good tunnels without collapsing.

*No red lights at anytime and no night lights of any kind. They need darkness at night on a regular cycle. Timers for daylights are great for that. No night heating is required unless temps are going to be in the low 40's and 50's. In which cases ceramic heaters or thermostat controlled programmable space heaters would be used*

***No compact florescents for the uvb source they stunt growth significantly for Veileds especially and at best they are a frequent cause of metabolic bone disease (MBD) at worst***

Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk
 
Old 03-05-2018, 11:50 AM   #8
Herps Alive!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Thomsen View Post
Seems to be a veiled, ill toss in a veiled sheet in case ya guys need it! Veiled Parameters & Basic Equipment

- For UVB lighting as a minimum Zoomed T5 high output fixture paired with a Reptisun 10.0 of matching length for the fixture. The best would be Arcadia T5 ho 12%.They also are showing to last longer than Zoomed bulbs. (Minimum 6" to 12" inches from bulb to head level on basking sites depending on the bulb and screen type) these guys are exposed to some of the most intense UV on the planet in Yemen and really do need the best linear "desert" UVB bulbs available for optimal growth and health. *(the better quality strength UVB light you use the less you have to rely on the pharmaceutical/ artificial D3 drug which means a more natural line of husbandry)

- Basking bulbs can be regular incandescent indoor flood bulbs, I stock several 65, 75 and 100 w for seasonal room temp changes. They're pretty cheap (minimum 6" to 12" safe distance depending on the bulb and hood style) or reptile specific basking bulbs.

- Ambient day temps 70-80F
Basking spot mid to high 90's to 100F for juvi to adults.
*Temp gun to check frequently*

- A decent quality digital temp gun is key and I also like one or two digital thermometers with probes for mid cage and lower in the cage to display ambient temps. (Probed digital thermometers to show basking temps in the hot spot can be really misleading and give you false readings). Placing a cham sized non reflective/nonmetallic object under the hot spot and taking temp gun readings off of that object is going to be the most accurate way to gauge temps where the actual animal will be.

- For supplements a straight calcium product with no other ingredients no matter what for 4 to 6 days a week lightly. Then you'll have to pick a multi vitamin with safe levels of artificial D3. A few popular ones are Zoomed Reptivite with D3 or Repashy Calcium Plus with D3 (those two would be twice a month) or Repashy Low D used once a week to 3 times a month. All dusting to be lightly coated, not snowballs.

- A drip system is a great idea and cheap to make or buy. Plastic turkey basters and pipettes for hand watering are fantastic.

- Large to medium pump sprayer for occasional hand misting.

- Large to extra large Zoomed Reptibreeze screen cages are hands down the best for Veileds. Sides and back can be convered or not. The main thing is high air flow over humidity with Veileds and just random spikes of high humidity from occasional misting with lots of dry time in between. (*they still must drink frequently through other sources i.e. drip systems and/or hand watering) misting systems although really not necessary for Veileds can be used in full screen but special attention needs to be paid to drainage and extra airflow and still providing mostly dryer time for the majority of the time.

- A good mix of edible safe plants, pothos, umbrella and hibiscus and/or quality fake plants and lots of branching/vines real or fake throughout providing lots of hiding places and full shade options in the bottom 2/3 of the cage and open canopy basking sites above in the top 1/3 of the cage .

- Diet should contain the biggest variety possible with well gutloaded crickets and/or roaches for the bulk of the diet. Super worms (not meal worms), horn worms and silk worms a few times a week and wax and phoenix worms as occasional treats. *(consider that super worms and wax worms are very high in fat content and phoenix worms are extremely high in calcium)

- Substrate isn't necesasry being Veileds are canopy dwellers and them not requiring constant high humidity like the majority of species and it's definitely not recommended for new keepers. Absolutely no bark chip or chunk substrate which provides a good chance for choking hazard. Bare bottom, paper towels or pee pads work really well and pose no hazards.

- Females should have access to large lay bins at all times over 4 months of age as they can lay infertile eggs at anytime after that but usually between 6 and 12 months most commonly. Lay bins should be as large and as deep as possible. Extra large screen cages make that easy to do. For smaller screen cages the floor panel can be removed and the whole cage placed over a deep storage bin. 50/50 sand soil mixes work well or pure coco fiber. All moistened and packed down hard so it holds good tunnels without collapsing.

*No red lights at anytime and no night lights of any kind. They need darkness at night on a regular cycle. Timers for daylights are great for that. No night heating is required unless temps are going to be in the low 40's and 50's. In which cases ceramic heaters or thermostat controlled programmable space heaters would be used*

***No compact florescents for the uvb source they stunt growth significantly for Veileds especially and at best they are a frequent cause of metabolic bone disease (MBD) at worst***

Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk
Thanks. Pretty much confirms what we are doing. Will adjust humidity slightly.
 

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