Laxatives for snakes (blood pythons)?

I was doing some reading this past weekend and came upon an article about a surgery to remove a fecalith from a python (I believe).

It was speculated that a larger cage where the animal would have more space to move around and stretch out might be somewhat preventative.

I was wondering if there is anything that could be used as a laxative for a snake that might be prone to constipation? Especially those pythons that tend to just lie around, like bloods.

If not laxatives, what practices could be employed to help prevent constipation/impaction? Is environmental humidity a factor?

I have a blood that is quite the couch potato. I would rather proactively be doing something to prevent the possibility of constipation rather than develop a plan to deal with it after it occurs.

Thanks

I have a few female GTP's that 'Hold it' and get constipated...They are in large cages with plenty of room to move, and humidity is high. When I notice that they are getting 'full', they get a warm water soak and some gentle handling....usually 'GO' within 24 hours after......Smaller meals help, too.
Hope this helps???

my experience has always been just clean the cage! for whatever reason this seems to have a laxative effect on them...never fails

a bath always seems to move things along as well.

I do not know of anything in vet med that is prescribed and has been approved for use in snakes/reptiles.

Bloods and STP's just take forever to crap. They have one of the slowest metabolisms then any other reptile. Its completely normal for a blood to go weeks and even months with no bowel movement. I wouldnt ever give a snake a laxative, EVER. That is something only a QUALIFIED Vet should decide.

Thanks for the comments. The information is reassuring.

My Blood does seem to hold onto it for a long time. Its impressive when he finally lets it go. He passes urates and fluid waste frequently. And, like SouthDixie alluded to, sometimes I have to clean his cage three times a day.

I have been putting him in the tub with warm water showering gently down on him like rain. I leave him until the hot water is gone. He enjoys a good bath, he exercises in the tub trying to find a way out, and gets treated to a level of humidity that I can never maintain in his tank.

The humidity levels for Bloods and Short tailed Pythons arent really all that demanding. If you can keep it between 50-70% humidity thats more then sufficient. This should be easy to accomplish with a light mist once or twice per day. Are you using an aquarium witha screen lid?

Originally Posted by Royal Prop

The humidity levels for Bloods and Short tailed Pythons arent really all that demanding. If you can keep it between 50-70% humidity thats more then sufficient. This should be easy to accomplish with a light mist once or twice per day. Are you using an aquarium witha screen lid?

Yes. 2/3rds of the screen is covered and he has a large, shallow water container. He has had shed problems in the past, notoriously. So, he benefits from extra humidity. I try to increase the humidity as soon as I know he is getting ready to shed. Despite the fact that Montana is not a desert, our air tends to be very arid, say <50% humidity most of the time. Even as low as 20%.

Ugg.. I hate fish aquariums for herps, especially for bloods and stp's. They just werent designed for herps. One thing you could do, is try to get a piece of plexiglass or something rigid like that and cover 3/4 of the screen lid to help hold the humidity a little better, another thing you can do is to add a humid hide. You can make one by getting a plastic storage tub and cutting a hole in the side big enough for your snake to access it easily, add some moist cypress or spaghnum moss into the box..... leave the lid on the tub. This will enable your snake to go into the humid hide and get the moisture it needs to keep healthy skin without you having to soak it everyday. Soaking is fine, but I wouldnt recommend it everyday.

Originally Posted by Royal Prop

Ugg.. I hate fish aquariums for herps, especially for bloods and stp's. They just werent designed for herps..

I'll bet this is what motivates you to manufacture your cages.

One thing you could do, is try to get a piece of plexiglass or something rigid like that and cover 3/4 of the screen lid to help hold the humidity a little better, another thing you can do is to add a humid hide. You can make one by getting a plastic storage tub and cutting a hole in the side big enough for your snake to access it easily, add some moist cypress or spaghnum moss into the box..... leave the lid on the tub. This will enable your snake to go into the humid hide and get the moisture it needs to keep healthy skin without you having to soak it everyday. Soaking is fine, but I
wouldnt recommend it everyday.

I have a bunch of plastic storage containers at the house. I can use one to create a humid hide for him.

It's time to move him up into a larger cage. My father does finish carpentry, cabinets, window frames and moulding etc. He has the shop and equipment. He will cut everything out for me and I will do the assembly. I think this is the way I will go for the three larger cages I'm going to need within the next few months. So, this blood will be getting more deluxe and appropriate quarters. I have a large sheet of 1/4" plexi. But I want to use it to make the doors.

Thank you for the input.