Teal/Green Patches on Beardies Belly. HELP

I keep my hatchlings on paper towels. But like Ed I have seen others use nothing.

If sand is used, I have heard that play sand is the best way to go. It is prewashed & less dusty than commercial reptile sand.

I have paper in the bottom now... and just fed him... he is still feeding aggressively and has normal looking fecies... I will keep my fingers crossed, and update with a posting soon...

thank you all for your help,

Allen

If it is a stain, and not water soluble, you might try wiping it gently with a small amount of gentle nail varnish remover on a tissue to see if it will dissolve in a solvent (and then immediately cleaning that off with a damp pad afterwards)

Stay away from the sensitive skin of the vent though.....

That color has got to be from an outside source, and not from any type of sickness. If it doesn't wash off, just wait until he sheds...I'll bet it comes off with the shed.

Originally Posted by dden

That color has got to be from an outside source, and not from any type of sickness. If it doesn't wash off, just wait until he sheds...I'll bet it comes off with the shed.

thanks dden, i am thinking the same thing.... I have been racking my brain on where it came from....

just wondering what you think about UTH's.. I have never had them with my beardie in the past, but allways were kept in an outside habatat with a "warm spot" hide/shelter... as mentioned, i am just fostering for a while while my buddy is away... so this is his set up.

UTH = under tank heater

It is not advisable to use UTHs with bearded dragons. I have heard different reasons why, the most prevalent is that they cannot sense heat on their undersides ... (but my question would be, then why do they like to bask on rocks?)

Dragons don't need another source of heat other than their basking light.

I prefer under-tank heaters for my dragons...especially for the hatchlings and juveniles. With a UTH you can provide a much larger basking area, and you can regulate the temps to perfection (with the use of a Helix or other similar thermostat). I have mine set to 110 degrees for the daytime. I use 12" wide Flexwatt heat tape and I tape the Helix sensor directly to the hot part of the Flexwatt. This way I can provide a large area with a SURFACE temp of 105-110 degrees (different parts of the tape, like where there are spaces between the 12" sections, stay a little cooler than 110). I have been using this method for over 20 years and have never had a problem...
If you use this method, make sure that the temp sensor is located OUTSIDE the cage so you are only measuring the temp of the heat tape so nothing, like spilled water, or dragons laying on the sensor, can effect the temperature. Some UTHs are pre-set to run at a certain temperature, so there is usually no need for a thermostat, but you need to make sure you know what temp is it set for if that is the case...

I should mention that I don't use any basking lights on the juveniles...just Under-Tank Heaters.