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06-23-2013, 10:17 AM
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#1
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New Albino Hoggie
Hey guys I recently purchased a red albino hognose male (Paco), i received him on wednesday...he looks great...he does stay burrowed about 90-95% of the time....he comes out for water once a day then burrows...he also hasnt shown any interest in eating....i was told he was eating f/t pinky mice so i tried that...even tried using "lizard magic" on the pinky and still nothing....i know that he does need some time to adjust and when he is hungry he will eat...should i be worried that he stays burrowed or hasnt eaten...again he does drink water....thanks in advance guys...
Pics attached of my lil male... :-)
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06-24-2013, 12:41 PM
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#2
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update
Another few pics
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06-24-2013, 06:51 PM
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#3
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If he was eating F/T pinks, I would just wait it out some and monitor his weight. You defiantly don't want to take a step back and start scenting if he is just still adjusting
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07-01-2013, 05:49 PM
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#4
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Congrats on your new hoggie! He's a pretty one, I just love his colors!
As for him not eating, I wouldn't worry about it too much at this point. It hasn't even been two weeks yet, so he could just be settling in still.
It's a bit harder to feed a snake that's always buried, so if you think it may be for security reasons, consider adding some snug hide boxes or tubes on the surface to make him feel safe sticking around. All my hogs love their tubes and I find that the cardboard center in an empty tinfoil roll works well for smaller males such as yours. Otherwise you may have to consider that he's staying buried in an attempt to thermoregulate. If you use a heat bulb, perhaps it's too much and he's trying to get away, or if you use belly heat, perhaps it's not enough and he's trying to get closer. Just double check all your temperatures, above and below the substrate on both sides to make sure his environment is perfect. I give my hognoses a slightly warmer hotspot than my other species and they do well with it.
A snake might not eat if it's stressed, so I think ensuring proper temperatures and making sure he feels safe is most important. Everyone has their own ways when it comes to the little things after that though, so it's just a matter of learning what works best for you. If he was eating unscented f/t before, then something must have worked for him. If he continues to refuse and you're concerned, maybe contact the breeder for advice. Perhaps emulating what he was used to before might make it "click"...
Good luck! My fingers are crossed that Paco eats and does well for you~
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07-01-2013, 06:10 PM
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#5
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Thank you i appreciate your advice....i have him in a container i got from tue container store....its like a drawer...it is about 12x12 and has a height of about 7 inches..he has started to come out more frequently but jus isnt interested in eating....he drinks water ok...the person i got him from had him on f/t pinks, but thats what he says, anyway i really just want him to survive....i will definitely check temps out tonight...when i attempt to feed him i put him back in the cup i got him in and leave him for about an hour or so....maybe i should leave him longer....i just dont want the pink to dry up...i wanted to scent because if that will get him eating ill do it....i work at a pet store and we get bullfrog tadpoles all the time...how often should i attempt a feeding do you think
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07-01-2013, 08:43 PM
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#6
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No problem, I hope this helps you some. If I can ask, about how old/big would you say Paco is? He doesn't appear to be skinny. I might be concerned about a hatchling not eating, but adults can actually go for a few months. Plus a tub that size is perfect for a male western, but a lot of people say that smaller tubs help hatchlings feel more secure, so they'll keep them in something smaller just to get them started, then upgrade them to something more like what you have now once they're about half-sized or so. Perhaps it's easier for them to find and focus on the food when there isn't as much space to keep an eye on. Tub size definitely isn't a rule, just food for thought. I still think that temps are most important, so it's good that you're checking those. Personally my westerns do well with a hot spot of about ninety, an overall temp of about eighty-four, and a cool side of about seventy-eight degrees fahrenheit.
Anyways, you can place him in a cup with the pinky to eat so long as it's comfortable for him. (It shouldn't be so small that he's balled up, and I think it helps if he's not constantly forced to touch the food. I tend to see the most interest when they go around the cup and "bump in to" it.) An hour should be long enough, and sometimes I think it helps to keep them in the dark or at least somewhere secluded. If you think that the act of removing him from his enclosure and transfering him to another container is too stressful and distracting for him, then consider feeding him inside his home. So it's easier for him to find, you can move it around with tongs or leave it inside his favorite hiding place (This has the added benefit of sometimes making snakes think they've "discovered" a rodent's nest) and if you do choose to leave the pinky there for a few hours through the night or however, it won't be dangerous for him.
I would try to feed him every four days, perhaps three if he's younger or not showing any signs of stress from the offerings.
I'm reluctant to use scenting on a snake that was previously eating well without, but I will if they start to lose weight or I feel their hunger strike carries any risk to their health. So while I still recommend a lot of patience and experimenting with small changes first, you can always turn to scenting if he continues to refuse and gets to the point where you think it's needed. Bullfrog tadpoles are one possiblity, I just recommend you freeze them first. They'll hold longer that way and hopefully it'll kill off any parasites/diseases/fungi etc it may have had.
I think it's wonderful that you care so much about Paco, but you have to remember that you haven't had him for very long yet and that snakes in general can typically go a few weeks without even losing weight. Best of luck with him!
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07-02-2013, 11:11 AM
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#7
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He is about 8" he doesnt really look like anything is wrong...just wont eat...his temps are fine and i added more above ground coverage...i think im jus worrying too much lol i added a pic of his house jus to make sure it was ok....
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07-02-2013, 12:16 PM
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#8
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His enclosure looks great.
You keep saying his temps are fine, but not what they are. If we know the exact temps, we can advise an adjustment if needed.
My male hognose will only eat in a plastic shoe box tote, covered with a towel & he is a slow eater.
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07-02-2013, 12:27 PM
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#9
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On his hot side the temp is 85-87 and the cooler side is about 76...
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07-02-2013, 12:28 PM
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#10
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How long do you normally leave him for until you put him back ?
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