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Old 03-15-2011, 08:47 PM   #41
suzuki4life
Quote:
Originally Posted by RachelSS View Post
Yup. I keep mine at room temperature and only use heat in the winter. They do great at "room temperature". I wouldn't even go over mid 80's for temperatures for Green trees.
yep my reptile room stays between 82-85 degrees. I spray them daily. I use a large water dish on the bottom of the cage AND if you can...wire plastic vines from the top screen of your cage (I use exoterra). Water will tend to drip from the leaves of the vines if done right. I cover the entire top of my cage with thin plexiglass that I tape down the edges with electrical tape.
 
Old 03-18-2011, 07:25 PM   #42
East_Coast
Properly keeping a Green Tree Python

No offense to previous posters but I do not agree. Here's the correct advice.

1. You can feed a chondro weekly if it is defecating. In fact, if it is a male I would advise feeding it as much as it will eat because at some point it may go on a fast for as long as 9 months. Mine have.
2. They do prolapse - but one the size of yours probably won't. In fact, if it does you have a major issue.
3. They will drink out of a bowl. All of them.
4. All snakes need a thermal gradient. Chondros are no exception. Regulating body temperature dictates almost all of a snake's activities in the wild - why would you not try to replicate this in captivity?
5. I never use anything above a 25 watt red bulb when using it for a snake's "hot spot". If it is too hot (even a 25 watt bulb will generate a lot of heat) then move it so only half the bulb is shining in the tank.
6. The snake is not feeling secure and that is probably why it is not on the branch. I would tape newspaper all around the cage; all four sides. Cut a peep hole so you can look in. The snake ate for you so that is the biggest indicator that it is OK. Once the snake settles in then you can remove the newspaper.
7. Where they come from they get a lot of rain - but I believe it burns off quickly. You can't successfully keep that snake with no ventilation. If you cover the top of the cage with plexiglass you have to allow for some airflow. MUST.
8. Regarding temperature, for what it is worth, my snake room is in the low 80's... and the heaters are set so that the perch under the heaters are at 85F. They generally do not sit under the heat unless digesting a meal.

Hey... don't listen to me... I've only raised this female Wamena for five years... Here's a pic from yesterday morning. She weighs over 1400 grams.


This male Wamena for 5 years (he's the one that goes on 9 month fasts):


This male Aru for 5 years (pic from February 27):


...and this female Aru that I bought in November. She was 500 grams and filled with tapeworms and hookworms. Now she is 818 grams and parasite free (pic's from March 11):


 
Old 03-18-2011, 07:29 PM   #43
gregsofla
thanks, the snake isn't grounded anymore so that is taken care of, but it still has not defecated. it has been 14 days, so i've just been waiting.
 
Old 03-18-2011, 07:33 PM   #44
East_Coast
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregsofla View Post
thanks, the snake isn't grounded anymore so that is taken care of, but it still has not defecated. it has been 14 days, so i've just been waiting.
If it is looking full right before it's vent turn your laundry sink (or bathtub) to a warm temperature (about the same temp you use when you take a shower).

Hold the snake under it. Watch out and be ready to wash your hands. Usually the snake will have a bowel movement in under a minute.
 
Old 03-18-2011, 08:53 PM   #45
suzuki4life
to each their own.

Glass cages vent plenty in combination of opening the door to mist them daily, feeding times and just normal leakage.

Optimum humidity is 70-80% normally.

I run many monitor species 70-100% with no venting if I can help it.

Many frog owners never vent their cages other than feeding or misting also...so plenty of keepers will tell you that they survive plenty fine.

A warm soak may help with the pooping problems.

You can take what ever advice you want. But it is obvious that the security of the snake did not keep it from climbing its perch at this point.

I also have never seen one of my gtp drink from a dish. They drink from the sides of the cage, leaves or even off their own backs, but never seen one drink from a dish.
 
Old 03-18-2011, 09:26 PM   #46
gregsofla
the perch problem is fixed lol, no worries., i did the warm soak and still no defecation.
-Greg
 
Old 03-18-2011, 10:10 PM   #47
East_Coast
Quote:
Originally Posted by suzuki4life View Post
to each their own.

Glass cages vent plenty in combination of opening the door to mist them daily, feeding times and just normal leakage.

Optimum humidity is 70-80% normally.

I run many monitor species 70-100% with no venting if I can help it.

Many frog owners never vent their cages other than feeding or misting also...so plenty of keepers will tell you that they survive plenty fine.

A warm soak may help with the pooping problems.

You can take what ever advice you want. But it is obvious that the security of the snake did not keep it from climbing its perch at this point.

I also have never seen one of my gtp drink from a dish. They drink from the sides of the cage, leaves or even off their own backs, but never seen one drink from a dish.
Gary I normally see them doing this during night-time checks where I enter the room and flick on the overhead light. I see them stretched all the way down into the bowl and taking a good long drink. I change their water frequently though and they only get reverse osmosis water - in the spray bottle and the wish.

I do agree that they need high humidity but I accomplish this by frequent misting. I agree with your idea about the vines but I always looked at the advantage of that being more surface area for water drops to adhere to and therefore higher humidity when it evaporates. My house only has about 40% humidity during the winter so that is a constant struggle.

Regarding the security of the snake / grounding - I think that it probably was not feeling secure and that is why it was on the deck; or it had to have been temp related. I have noticed chondros that ground themselves before and without fail it is either a chondro newly added to my collection or the cage is too hot.

I can't believe that a chondro can be healthy in a damp & stagnant environment with no ventilation. Gary I have no doubt you know what you are doing and are an experienced herp keeper but personally I would not block the airflow in any cage for any animal. Obviously the way you are doing it (opening the door, etc) is succeeding with your animals.
 
Old 03-21-2011, 10:14 PM   #48
gregsofla
hey guys,
the snake still has not defecated and i've pretty much tried everything, i don't know if i should feed it again or continue waiting.
-Greg
 
Old 03-30-2011, 11:19 PM   #49
Mr.Atrox
How did things turn out?

What was the diameter of the perch in relation to snake? Does the perch run the length of the enclosure giving it a "perch gradient"? How close is the lamp to the perch area? Me thinks this might be a WC snake, just about every GTP ive seen at the repticon miami shows are WC which opens a whole slew of other questions.
 
Old 05-14-2011, 09:48 PM   #50
pastytyler44
i just got a biak locale GTP and she has been great but have noticed her on the floor once, but it was at night and i did some research and have found that it can be not normal but has happend just because they are nocturnal, and tend to cruise around, i did adjust my temps in my snake room tho, has not happened since... hope you got everything figured out.... just thought id add to thread...
 

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