Bearded Dragon Brumation Techniques

This past year, I brumated my beardies based upon some advice I'd received from someone who claimed to be knowledgeable in this area. The beardies had a very difficult time recovering from brumation, and I would like to make sure that they are brumated properly this year.

How do you brumate your beardies?

I'd love some expert opinions on this one too....I dealt with the same issues Tere did!

Ditto. Well, I had talked with a breeder who has been breeding and brumating dragons for years and raises thousands annually. He told me that the dragons need a gradual cool-down where they're left in their cages and the light duration as well as the temperatures are decreased gradually. He doesn't feed them for the 2-3 weeks they spend cooling down. I guess it basically puts the dragons to sleep because of the way they respond to the simulated changing of the seasons. Then they're left in their tubs (with lids) in a different room that has little ambient light and hovers around 65 degrees. I think he said he leaves them there for 6-8 weeks, but I can't remember for certain. Anyway, after that period, the dragons are brought back to standard temps and light duration GRADUALLY, basically just a reverse of what they go through in the Fall. I guess he's been doing it that way for several years, and the dragons seem to do well with that method.

I know it's not exactly a complicated thing, but very few (if any, that I have seen) books or caresheets detail the brumation process. Some just say something along the lines of "reduced temps and light" but don't spell out how to do it, or for how long. All I know, is that next time I need to brumate a dragon, I'll be doing it the way listed above, instead of the way I was originally told.

Anyone have input here? :scatter:

Originally Posted by Dachiu

Anyone have input here? :scatter:

Ya, not sure why you didn't just answer it lol.
Ok Tere, not sure what you did last year but here's what I do. 1st thing make sure they've got clear fecals and get an accurate weight on them. After that start decreasing your light cycle about 1-2 hours per day (about a 10 day period). At 4 hours stop all food, I still leave a water dish in. When they're out cover them up so they stay dark. I check in on them, change their water (probably unecessary but I leave it in in case they wake up thirsty) and check their weight weekly, they should lose very little if any weight. When it's time to get up reverse the process. It's a little late in season to traditionally brumate them but it can be induced anytime since we control their lights.

My dragons are, for the most part, in the same living area we share. I do have their lights on timers, is decreasing the photoperiod with their lights going to make enough of a difference with our lights still on, or do they need to be moved to their own room?

I'd just cover the cage with a towel/sheet or whatever it takes to get them dark (it doesn't have to be pitch black either). I've never brumated them in the living areas of the house but I have dealt with similar situations in the beardie rooms and that's how I've done it there.

Hi Tere,
I've also found that this is one particular area where there is a lot of incomplete information. For me personally, I try as much as possible to simulate the natural experience for them. I reduce light cycles gradually. I normally run a 14/10 cycle, during brumation I run using only 8 hours of light. I also offer a hide where my dragons normally spend most of their time. In general, I leave it up to them to do what comes naturally for them. Some of them come out on occasion to bask and drink, some do not. I also continue to weigh them regularly, and I keep the temps at my own household ambient temps, which are 60 nighttime, and between 65 and 70 during the day.

Sean, the reason I was waiting is to see what other people would say silly!

We do things a bit differently here. We work with 3 separate groups annually and they are spread throughout the year. Remember, everything is in our home and timing is of the essence here. Too many breeding at one time and where in the world would I put them all? ok...

First, we'll screen the bloodlines, choose our matches/pairs and get weights about 2-3 months before the planned breeding. This way, we have plenty of time to make any adjustments in pairings and put some extra weight on them. We use as a guideline - 350 gram/1 year minimum on the females. Older females usually start to cycle on their own about the same time each year and we just watch them closely for the hints, allowing them to let us know when they are ready.

About a week before the expected cycle, we'll stop feeding them and offer water daily. While doing this, we leave the heat lights on so that they can digest any solids and pass them. We know they're clear when they have don't actually 'poo', but pass urates and water.

Once ready, we pull the animals from their cage and put them in a vented Sterilite bin on papertowels. No gradual light changes or temperature changes here. The bins are in my work area and also clear which makes for ease of peeking in on them many times throughout the day. During the cool-down period, we do not offer them food items, but check them often and offer water for hydration at least 2X weekly.

First year females are in cool-down for about 6 weeks and older animals for 8 weeks. There is always the exception though - if someone wakes up early and is active in the bin, we pull them out... as well as if someone is losing weight or 'off' in any way - we pull them out.

Once the 'down time' has lapsed, we pull them and move them into their breeding cages. Lights and heat at 14 hours. Again, nothing gradual.
Both males and females keep to the cool end for a few days and perk up and bask within a week. Normally, within days of deciding to bask, the male decides to breed.

And here before you is 4 months of our year...

V.

* Ive seen no difference in gradual cool-down and just pulling them for cool-down - we have done it both ways.

*Dragons kept at room temperature will not digest their food properly, if at all, and the fermenting food in their system can cause internal bacteria to spiral out of control. 'Bugs' can not only survive, but thrive, at room temperature. If your dragon isn't having consistent bowel movements to move the buggers out - they become a luxury condominium. A few years ago, we had before/after fecals done on a few animals - which showed a definite increase of coccidia through cool-down. Toss in the added stress of being chased around a cage by a male, poor appetite due to not feeling well and developing eggs - by the time her 2nd or 3rd clutch comes, you have a recipe for a mess.

Quick question. If you miss a brumation period, like say your dragon is a full year, or two, can they still breed? I know that with Tegus, if you miss one brumation period it is seemed to mess up the females ovulation and then they won't be able to produce viable eggs even if properly hibernated from then on out. (Note: I'm not saying it's impossible for an un-brumated tegu to be a breeder, I've just never heard of it yet.)