Are you <censored> kidding me??

This new house is turning into a major pain in the butt.
I've been trying to get the snakes moved over here, got all my AP racks + my Vision hatchling rack upstairs - no problem. Got my bullsnake racks in the basement...that's where the fun ended.
I have two Vision Versa racks (for 15/32 Sterilite tubs) that I was going to put in the basement for grower bulls - the ceiling is too low. No big deal, I thought, I'll just get rid of them, and get some AP racks for down there.
Today, I had gathered my courage, and motivated myself to bring over my 7 high (Vision) boa rack. I had worked out how I'd house those snakes during the transition, and I was walking out the door.
Stop.
[think]You know, those ceilings seem a little low.[/think]
Let me measure first, just to be sure....
So I go upstairs with my tape measure. Floor to ceiling is...is...just about 84"
huh. I'd love to round it to 7ft, but it really is just a little shy.
Okay - down to the computer to check the website. The 7 high boa rack is......84 inches. There's just no way it will work. For those of you that aren't familiar with them, Vision racks are assembled by sliding the levels down from the top, which means you need enough room to have that level over the support poles.

I suppose I could leave the castors off...just lay the bottom level on a piece of insulation board. Not crazy about that idea, especially since I've never beena fan of how the heat is run on those racks - I think the bottom level would end up too cool in the winter. I'm still not sure it would work, since the supports are a little long, and you have to put a bolt at the top to keep the levels snug. I'd probably have to cut it down a little, and hope that I could make it work (the poles are threaded, and the bolts -inserted into the top - keep everything tight). Not sure how it is set up, offhand...it would be nice if it's an insert that I might be able to remove, then replace after cutting an inch or two off the pole, but I doubt that's the case. Tap them, if they aren't threaded all the way through??
Another option would be putting it in my office...except I already have to put my stacks of 4x2 and 3x2 cages in there. What it boils down to is that I just don't want to do it. Adding that rack to my office would ruin it, quite frankly. It will be overfull, and even coming and going would be hindered because there would be cages coming nearly to my desk (I've got a fairly big desk).

Guess it's time to go over to the old house and really look at it...

Note to self....before buying a new house, check room dimensions first.

Could you change your plans and move the 4x2's and 3x2's to where you were going to put the boa rack?

Originally Posted by TheFragginDragon

Could you change your plans and move the 4x2's and 3x2's to where you were going to put the boa rack?

Unfortunately, no (that's why I have to put them in my office, lol). My cage stacks are 7 high. I could do it if I only went 6 high...but then I'd have to figure out where to put the other cage, lol.
Besides, the Vision boa rack, while functional, isn't exactly aesthetically pleasing...it would ugly up my office.

Originally Posted by hhmoore

Unfortunately, no (that's why I have to put them in my office, lol). My cage stacks are 7 high. I could do it if I only went 6 high...but then I'd have to figure out where to put the other cage, lol.
Besides, the Vision boa rack, while functional, isn't exactly aesthetically pleasing...it would ugly up my office.

I am so sorry...

Put it together by laying it down and then once it is together stand it up?

Cut the racks in half, put makeshift casters on the top half and then you have two more Vision racks?

Sorry, I probably am not helping...

The tubs are 40x30, so I would need a taller room to get it upright.
No need to cut it to split it in half...but it wouldn't work right. The top bolts are what tighten the levels. Without them in place, it would be fairly easy for them to get out...no 5-7 ft snake escapes are allowed.

I just took a look at my hatchling rack...removing the castors will give me 4.5 inches (well, 3.5, since I'll be putting it on a 1" piece of insulation board). That is enough to allow for assembly, and placing the tightening bolts. I'll just put something that tolerates cooler temps on the bottom.

I'm not sure how the casters affect the heating but would it be possible to find some smaller after market casters and put them on after the unit is assembled? If simply keeping it up off the floor is the issue could you just put it on some spacers?

Just tossing out ideas.

I think it will be okay with a piece of insulation board under it...I might put a piece of Reflectix between the board and the bottom level, but that's probably just a waste of money, realistically. I've got a few things that aren't too temp sensitive that should be fine down there...and, if I'm wrong, I can slide a piece of heat tape under that tub to take the chill off.

You can put a fan on the floor pointing upwards. Does wonders for making the air temps uniform bottom to top in a room.... Also, the wall facing the north side will normally be colder than the other walls. Assuming all walls are outside walls, of course.

Are 7 ft. ceilings the norm nowadays?

Originally Posted by WebSlave

Are 7 ft. ceilings the norm nowadays?

I have no idea. This is a 45 yr old house. The downstair ceilings are probably 8ft, upstairs are 7ft. It's a cape, if that has anything to do with it.

Now that I think about it, the hatch up to the "attic" (for lack of a better word) opens into an area that is probably about a foot high, then there is another hatch. I don't know if that was a design thing, of if the top one used to be the ceiling. Lowering the celings through the whole upstairs seems like an odd thing to do, but who knows why people do things these days.

Is getting the ceilings raised again to costly? (Sorry for my ignorance)