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10-08-2006, 02:28 PM
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#1
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kingsnake wont eat
please help. i just got a kingsnake last sunday. i have offered it pinkies about 3 times and it just wont eat. any help, suggestions???
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10-08-2006, 02:41 PM
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#2
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Jason,
How about some details?
What kind of kingsnake is it?
How old is it?
Was it eating prior to your purchase?
How do you have it set up?
The more details, the better.
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10-08-2006, 03:03 PM
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#3
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hey, i got him from the reptile show. the label said california king, its a male, only a coulple months old, and they didnt say if he was eating or not. i have it in a 10 gal, with heat light, water dish, and something like hampster bedding, but for reptiles. any help you give is gerat.
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10-08-2006, 06:33 PM
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#4
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Here's what worked for me this week.
I just got a new hatchling kingsnake. Same genus, different species. Here's what works for me.
1. The pinky needs to be very small. One day old are about half the size of 4 day olds, so smaller is better.
2. Slightly warmed. I place mine in a plastic baggie in warm water for 3-4 minutes.
3. I put the snake and the pinky in a separate small container. Right now I'm using the tupperware sandwich container. I place this container in a dark place and leave it alone for an hour or so.
4. I haven't had to do it yet, but I've been advised that piercing the skull with a pin can help with reluctant feeders.
I think the biggest thing is a small container, dark place.
Hope this helps, good luck
John
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10-10-2006, 06:07 PM
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#5
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thanks very much. im goin to give it a try and see what happens. have been doin everything but the dark place, so will do, if not then i will try the peircing thing sine he still hasnt eaten and its been over a week since ive had him.
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10-12-2006, 09:15 PM
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#6
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Hey there
I sent you a PM, but I'll post here too. Sometimes snakes will go off feed for a little while. It is something you shouldn't worry about because it will eat when it wants to eat. Make sure he/she's in a low traffic, nice a quiet area, that it has a decent hide and is able to settled in and used to its new place. You may want to just give him/her a week to "reset" and chill out and try again at the end of the week, using the deli cup feeding method.
here's a short caresheet, there are better ones online, but this has a pretty decent rundown. as long as you meet its needs, it will eat for you. next snake or herp you get, make sure the breeder will garuntee that it is healthy and feeding and that you get a bussiness and phone number so you can call them and ask any questions... Good Luck!
http://www.reptilia.org/care_sheets/...snk_common.htm
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10-19-2006, 10:43 PM
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#7
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Hi, I would also try making the snake more comfortable. Try using Repti-bark or something as opposed to hamster shavings, give him some natural wood for hiding, and maybe even a couple of houseplants. I find living plants in the cages really seem to boost the snake's spirits.
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10-20-2006, 11:10 PM
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#8
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Hi, the heat light could be stressing himout also. A 10 gal sounds small to have a heat lamp in. Do you have an undertank heater?, it might work better for him. Hope it works out.
Dennis Cook
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11-08-2006, 05:49 PM
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#9
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Hi Jason,
Did it work? I am sorta in the same situation. I bought my greyband hatchling from a breeder that did not feed her. I'm trying everything! I tried tailing also but it still seems she tries not to eat or accept the tail. Please let me know how you made out.
Thanks much
Michelle
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11-08-2006, 10:37 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovemygreyband
Hi Jason,
Did it work? I am sorta in the same situation. I bought my greyband hatchling from a breeder that did not feed her. I'm trying everything! I tried tailing also but it still seems she tries not to eat or accept the tail. Please let me know how you made out.
Thanks much
Michelle
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Graybands are typically lizard feeders in the wild. I recently got my lyre snake (another lizard feeder) converted to rodents. I used scenting with western skink to get mine eating. Skinks are reputed to be a grayband favorite, but they may be hard to get this time of year.
I set my lyre up in a small reptile ranch (small cages can work well for shy stubborn feeders since they will be in close proximity to their food and won't be stressed by the move to a feeding container). About 3/4ths of the cage was covered by a cork slab which the snake hid under during the day. Secure / tight hiding places are important to rock dwellers. I observed my lyre out cruising around in the evening. I kept mine on aspen shavings but I know of some people who prefer to use aged newspaper since fresh aspen can mask scents. I happened to have an old openned bag that I'd been using for my other snakes. The back 1/4 of the tank was heated via an under tank heater.
I went out and collected some skink tails (I just held their tail about half way up until they dropped it and let them go). I took a frozen thawed pinky and washed it with soap to remove the mouse scent, dried it, and put a 1/2 inch section of skink tail down its throat and put it at the edge of the cork where I could see the snake hiding. I did this at dusk and the pinky disappeared.
If I recall correctly, I had to use skink tail for the first three feedings. During this time, I did not handle the snake and kept disturbance to minimum. Food was offered weekly. After those feedings, I took a washed pinky and rubbed it on my pet western skink (if you're not interested in a pet you can use a frozen lizard) and offered it to my lyre. I offered scented for several more feedings then switched to washed unscented and then to unwashed. Now my lyre will readily take live or pre-killed pinkys.
Once I was satisfied that my snake was eating well, I upgraded it to a 10 gallon. I use my snakes for educational displays etc. so I also started handling it (infrequently) at this time. You may have the seasons stacked against you right now since many snakes are going into winter mode. One of my friends who breeds kingsnakes finds it necessary to give some of his hatchlings a lizard to get them eating and then scents them over to rodents.
Good luck!
Alice
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