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Old 04-04-2006, 02:43 PM   #1
Golden Gate Geckos
Exclamation Care Sheet Database

I'll be helping out WebSlave here on the Gecko Forum, and our goal is to make this a fun and informative place to talk about (and show off) our various Gecko species. I'd like to develop a database of care sheets, so if you have one or know of one please post it here. For the time being, we can allow for links to caresheets as well.

We need:


- Aeluroscalabotes felinus - (Malaysian Cat Gecko)


Diplodactylus sp. - (Spiny-tailed Gecko)
- Nephrurus sp. - (Knob-tailed Gecko)
Oedura sp. - (Velvet Gecko)
Phyllurus s
p - (Northern Leaftail Gecko)
Rhacodactylus s
p. - (Crested Gecko, Gargoyle Gecko)
Strophurus s
p. - (Spiny-tailed Gecko)
- Underwoodisaurus sp. - (Thick-tailed Gecko, Barking Gecko)


Coleonyx sp. (Banded Geckos)
- (Chinese Cave Gecko, Chinese Leopard Gecko, Chinese Tiger Gecko)
sp. (African Fat-tailed Gecko)


Gekko gecko (Tokay Gecko)
sp (Bibron's Gecko, Thick-fingered Gecko, Rough Scaled Gecko, Spotted Gecko)
- Paroedura sp. (Madagascan Ground Gecko, Ocelot Gecko)
- Phelsuma sp. (Day Geckos, Gold Dust Gecko)
- Stenodactylus sp. (Israeli Sand (Dune) Gecko)
sp. (Leaf-tailed Gecko)

Teratoscincus sp. (Frog-eyed Gecko)

Old 04-04-2006, 10:43 PM   #2
Excellent idea Marcia! Iím in the process of re-doing all my care sheets (adding more detail) and Iím also making a new one for N. levis levis. Itís taking time though. In the mean time here is one for the African fat tail gecko Hemitheconyx caudicinctus. I donít know how it will be organized so I copied and pasted the text as well as added a link.

African Fat-tail Gecko
Hemitheconyx caudicinctus

General Information:
The African fat tail gecko (Hemitheconyx caudicinctus) is native to the West African region. Adults can obtain a length of 8-10 inches and easily 100 grams (g). Babies are around 3-3ĹĒ in length and 3g. Fat tails are a terrestrial animal which means they are ground dwellers that stay on the ground. Being nocturnal they are most active at night. Fat tails are very similar to leopard geckos although there are a few physical differences. Fat tails have smaller stockier feet and generally bulkier heads. Because they are similar to leos they have been gaining popularity as every year passes.

Fat-tails are very easy to house. A pair (1 male and 1 female) can live comfortably in a 20 gallon long glass aquarium. Most breeders use some kind of a rack system. Racks are easier because you can fit more geckos in a given area than you can with glass aquariums. But with an aquarium you can view them better and make a realistic vivarium. I house my fat tails in 28 quart Rubbermaid containers that are in racks.

Substrate Ė The best substrate to use is paper, paper towel, and packed bed-a-beast are all suitable. I suggest not using sand at all, as they may become impacted and their environment needs to be more humid which sand doesnít consistency provide. My animals are all kept on paper just for these reasons.

Hides Ė In order for the gecko to feel secure in its enclosure provide several hiding places. These can be as simple as inverted plant saucer pans, plants, wood etc. Itís a good idea to put a hide on both the warm end and cool end (discussed in heat section below) of the cage. This will allow them to hide and feel comfortable on both ends of the cage. Along with a ďdarkĒ hide they need a humid hide. This is important because fat tails need more humidity. The most popular is using a throw away container such as a glad or Tupperware container. Cut a hole in the lid and fill it with moist peat moss, sphagnum moss, forest bed (Coconut fiber), or paper towel. This will provide enough humidity to allow the gecko to shed properly.

Heat & Light Ė Provide a hot spot of 88˚-90˚F with the opposite side of the cage in the mid 70ís. It is very important to provide a temperature gradient for the animal. This is basically having a warm end and a cool end that will allow the animal to regulate its own body temps. There are several different ways to provide proper heat. One is using under tank heating. This is a strip of heat tape that runs under the cage. This is probably the best heat as itís direct heat. Another way is to provide a heat lamp with a 40 or 60w light bulb. This will give off heat and light. Because fat tails are nocturnal there is no need for special UVB lighting.

Handling Ė Fat tails are one of the best geckos for holding. They are very calm and sometimes seem to enjoy being handled. But remember when holding any animal itís best to take it slow. When you first acquire a new animal it is best not to hold them for a few weeks. This will allow them to adjust to the new environment and get used to everything. After a few weeks, gently hold the gecko letting it walk across your hand inside the cage. Once the gecko is familiar with you, you can take it out and hold it. Remember that too much holding or too rough of holding can cause stress on the animal. Another thing to remember is to never grab the tail! If threatened, the tail will break off. It will grow back but will look nothing like the original.

Food & Water:
Fat tails are insectivores and the most common items used are crickets, mealworms, superworms, silkworms, and small cockroaches as a staple diet. The occasional pinky mouse and waxworm can be given as a treat. I donít recommend feeding a lot of waxworms. They are very fattening and addicting to the animal. Only feed as much as the gecko will consume within 24 hours. Left over prey running in the cage can cause stress but the gecko might get nibbled on by hungry insects. If youíre feeding mealworms, superworms, etc. that can be contained in a dish they can be left with the animal 24/7 without harm. The pray item should be no larger than half the width of the geckos head.

Supplementation Ė Offer calcium dusted prey 1-2 times per week, once a week dust with a vitamin/mineral supplement such as vionate, RepCal Herptivite or Minerall Indoor/Outdoor. I use osteo-form as my supplementation of choice. I also provide a dish of calcium for the gecko 24/7. If they want more calcium the animal can lick what they need or want. Supplementation is very important because MBD (Metabolic bone disease) can cause serious problems with reptiles.

Gutloading - Make sure to gutload the food item prior to feeding. Gutloading is feeding very nutritious foods to prey prior to feeding. This will make a healthier insect and in the long run a healthier gecko. Remember your geckos are what they eat.

Water Ė Offer a dish of fresh water at all times. Keeping the water fresh is very important.

Cleaning is important and needs to be done on a regular basis. If youíre using paper or paper towel change it every week or sooner if needed. I also recommend disinfecting everything with a chlorhexidine solution. It will safely sanitize everything.

Fat tail breeding is almost identical to that of leopard geckos. Before you attempt breeding keep in mind the amount of time, space and recourses it will take to maintain the breeders and babies. With that being said youíre breeders will need to be ready. I recommend males a minimum of 8 months old and 45g and females being a minimum of 1 year and 50g. Although those are the minimums I prefer my females to be no less than 60g as it will be easier on them.

Sexing Ė There are only a few ways to sex fat-tail geckos. The easiest way is to look at the bottom side of the gecko. The male will have two pronounced hemipenal bulges behind the vent on the tail side. You can also look for 10-13 pre-anal pores that will be in a "V" shape just above the vent. Both of these are very visible. Females will lack the hemipenal bulges or the pre-anal pores. Another way to tell is just by looking at them. Males are more heavy bodied, have thicker necks and their heads are broader than a females.

Breeding Ė Some breeders give a brief cool down period others donít. Both ways seem to work so itís just what your preference is. I have used both methods and usually prefer a cooling. Stop feeding a week prior to a cool down. Gradually lower the temperature until it is 70˚ to 75˚ F. Do this for 4 weeks then gradually warm them back up again. Once they are warmed up offer the pair a lot of food so theyíll gain back the weight they lost during the cool down. After a few weeks, put the male with the female. The geckos may mate right away or it might take a little time. Leave the male in with the female overnight and then take him out. Do this about 3 times a week and you should have a successful mating. If you donít cool them just place the male with the desired females and use the same method as above.

Eggs Ė Up to 4 weeks after a successful mating the first clutch of eggs will be laid. Each clutch will consist of 1-2 white oval eggs. Fat tails have been known to easily lay 8 clutches a year with each clutch being laid in 2-3 week intervals.

Incubation - After being laid the eggs need to be placed in an incubator. As with leopard gecko eggs fat tail eggs are temperature sexed dependent. This mean that you can decide what sex baby you want just by incubating the eggs at a certain temperature. The text below shows the results with the given temps.

For female = 80˚ F
For mix of both sexes = 85˚ F
For male = 90˚ F

The eggs will hatch in 30-105 days. Males generally hatch faster because of the higher temperatures. Females take longer because of the cooler temperatures. On average itís around 60 days.

Although fat tails arenít as popular as leopard geckos but they are still close to the top of the list. There arenít as many colors as there is with leos but as more people work with them the more will be created. If youíre looking for a first time pet gecko the fat tail is one of the best bets.
Old 04-05-2006, 08:36 AM   #3
Crested Gecko Care Sheet
Rhacodactylus Ciliatis

General Information


Crested Geckos are originally from New Caledonia Islands near Australia.
Size: Adult Crested Geckos can reach up to 8 inches in length, and can weigh approx. 30-35 grams. Hatchling Crested Geckos are about 3 to 31/2 inches and weigh approx 2 to 3 grams.

Life Span:

Crested Geckos have not been in captivity for that long, so the life span is not really known. It is estimated at 15 to 20 years.


The best way to distinguish females from males is, the males will have an obvious hemipenile bulge at the base of their tail, and females wonít have this bulge. Crested Geckos can usually be sexed after 7 months of age.


**Most importantly, two males should never be housed together as they are very territorial and will fight. This can cause injuries to your geckos and possibly even death. Young Crested Geckos should be housed in a small enclosure, like a Large Kritter Keeper (Found in most Pet Stores or can be purchased online). As the Gecko grows it can be moved to a larger enclosure. I keep 1.1 to 1.2 full grown Crested Geckos in a 20 Gallon Tank comfortably.


In my opinion, the best substrate is paper towels or plain white paper; these are safe for the geckos and make for very easy cleaning. Sand, Bed-A-Beast or Peat Moss is not recommended, because the gecko can eat this type of substrate and become impacted and possibly die from it.


Crested Geckos are arboreal Geckos, so you should have plenty of branches, vines, and/or silk plants for them to climb on.


During the day the ideal temperature for Crested Geckos is between 75 and 78 degrees. At night the temperature can go down to about 70 degrees. Usually Cresteds will be warm enough being kept at room temperature, but if extra heat is needed, the best way to heat the enclosure is with an over head heat lamp with a low wattage red bulb. It is very important to not overheat the enclosure, because temperatures over 80 degrees can stress your Crested and may lead to death.



Crested Geckos eat a varying diet of fruits and insects. I feed my Crested Geckos Clark's Frugivorous Diet(F.G.D.) approx 3 times a week, I also make my own food that I feed to them as a treat about once a week. I take 2 bananas, a few strawberries, a mango, assorted other fruits, low fat plain yogurt, 1 jar turkey or chicken baby food, calcium & vionate, blend together. I learned this from "Crested Lady". I also feed them either mealworms or Phoenix worms twice a week; these are also dusted with calcium powder.

Size of food:

Feeders should be no longer than and half as wide as the geckos head.


A pinch of calcium should be sprinkled on your Geckos' food daily. And, sprinkle a pinch of vitamin powder to their food approx. once every 3-4 weeks.


Crested Geckos need a nice moist environment, so I spray their enclosures down once a day, usually in the evening. When they are thirsty they will lick the water off of the plants, glass, etc. (For this reason, it is especially important that you make sure to thoroughly rinse all chemicals from cleaning off of the entire enclosure). A bowl filled with fresh clean water should be available to at all time.



Geckos should be approx 8 months to a year old and weight at least 30-35 grams before breeding.


You can either breed 1 male to 1 female or you can use "Harem" groups which consist of 1 male with several females (generally 3-5 females). Once the females are gravid (have eggs) they will usually lay 2 eggs called clutches (Or one if first year breeding) every 3 to 4 weeks.

Egg Laying:

Females will lay their eggs at the bottom of their moist hide (I use a Tupperware with a see through bottom so I can see the eggs when they are laid). After the eggs are laid they will need to be placed in an incubator. First, place the eggs the exact same way that you found them (do not rotate) in another Tupperware filled with dampened vermiculite or perlite and place the Tupperware in the incubator. The cover to the Tupperware should be opened once or twice a week to provide air exchange. Babies will hatch in approx. 55 to 70+ days depending on what temperature they were incubated at, eggs incubated at lower temps (72-74) will take 75 days or more, and eggs incubated at higher temps 78-80 will take around 60 to 75 days. Babies will not feed until they have shed their skin for the first time, which usually takes 4-5 days. With some geckos, sex can be determined by incubation temperature, this has not been proven in crested geckos yet.
Old 04-14-2006, 12:12 PM   #4
This is a great idea! Can't wait to see it develope.

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