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Mite control

Bump

Just wanted to ask another question as it seems that the provent-a-mite is the way to go. Is it safe to use on hatchling snakes? I just found a few mites on a hatchling cornsnake...so now I will be treating my entire collection of hatchlings. My adult snakes are in a totally seperate area of the house, I will check them over again, but I don't think they are infected.

I was toying with the idea of predatory mites, but...eh...

Please let me know so that I can get to work on this immediately. Thanks a bunch.
 
awesome, I just ordered some from the bean farm (they had a UTH size that I was looking for too...just decided to make one order).

Are there any comments on the Nature's Relief (I think???) the DeFlea stuff for use directly on the babies?

Now all my babies are on paper towels in a rack, I just changed all the paper and cleaned out the tubs today...is there anything I can use in the meantime to start getting mites off. (I only noticed them on one snake out of 20).
 
Are you thinking of Reptile Relief by Natural Chemistry?

I love this stuff, I used the Reptile Relief, I think it works great. To use is so easy, just spray down a paper towel and wipe down the snake. It is an instant killer of mites, but is safe for the snakes. Three to 4 days later, wipe down the snakes again and that is it, treatment is done. I have even sprayed this directly on the snakes back and a paper towel to get everything. Look at the paper towel when you are done, you will be surprised at the amount of mites it takes off of the snake. I will even spray down the cages when I clean, just because. I had one infestation, since than I take no chances.

I also use the Healthy Habitat to clean out and disinfect the cages. The stuff works great, also it is safe on reptiles, if you were to spot clean a cage with a snake in it. I just use it to clean cages while I have the snakes in their feeding tubs.

For immediate removal, soak the babies in warm water with a drop of soap in the water. This is what I do; I use deli cups and just enough water to reach the back of the snake, I put on the lid and carefully keep an eye on them. I have read that some soak from short periods of times like 20-30 minutes up to about 8 hours. Though I have seen 30 minutes work just fine.
 
That's it. Just brain fried when I was thinking of it. Yes, I bought some Reptile Relief today and worked on the 3 that I noticed it on. Hopefully I'll get my Provent-A-Mite this week. I'll just treat the cages with the provent a mite. I noticed that when I used the reptile relief, it did not kill the mites that were under the scales on the snakes. Maybe I'm not doing it right. I'll keep working on it though. I figure if I use the PAM in the cages that I see no signs of mites in, it will still be a good preventative.
 
Yeah, under the scales take a little more work, being that the mites have their heads under the skin. Sometimes it takes a few wipe downs to get them all, but as soon as they emerge and hit the stuff it takes them out. I have even used it on spiders, flies, fleas, ants. Fun stuff to use when bored.
 
I'll try your suggestion on soaking today....oye, what a mess. Add it to the list of all things going wrong all at once!!! But the cat-bite snake is fine LOLOL. ugh. Kelly
 
A reply to a previous question regarding host specificity of mites:
Lice are very host specific. Mites can be host specific but can be zoonotic as well (i.e. scabies (sarcoptes), walking dandruff (cheyletiella). Reptile mites do not infest people but will occasionally bite and cause itching.
Michael
 
I just got PAM and treated my tanks, my carpet has a ton of mites under the scales on the bottom of her head and i think in her eye sockets (due to having puffy eye sockets), will this treatment get rid of these mites on her. Also I use paper towel substrate, is it safe to mist as usual to keep the humidity up after the tank has been treated(once the pam has dried) or could this some how make it so the chemical can be absorbed by the snake and cause harm?
 
I wouldn't mist the cage right now for at least a few days to give the PAM time to work. You may also try spraying PAM on a cloth, allowing it to air and dry for a few minutes and rub your snake down. That will help kill off the mites even quicker. Just please don't spray the snake.
 
Clay,
I am not into herping as much any more, but is BK still off the market? I have many friends still trying to find a substitute for it and can't. It was awesome! I know this is an old discussion, I just didn't know where to post the question other than here. I have some BK in my old can (what, 5 or 6 years old now?) but won't use it 'cause of my invert collection I have now...residual on it was awesome for my herps but the inverts...well, just wondered, a friend is still trying to pray BK back into circulation. Thanks for any leads you may have!
 
Raventears said:
Clay,
I am not into herping as much any more, but is BK still off the market? I have many friends still trying to find a substitute for it and can't. It was awesome! I know this is an old discussion, I just didn't know where to post the question other than here. I have some BK in my old can (what, 5 or 6 years old now?) but won't use it 'cause of my invert collection I have now...residual on it was awesome for my herps but the inverts...well, just wondered, a friend is still trying to pray BK back into circulation. Thanks for any leads you may have!

Black knight was forced off the market, actually sued by Provent a mite. So I will never use PAM.


Here is some info for you to check out:

Nix was designed to treat human head lice and their nits (eggs). The one characteristic that separates the Nix method for treating snake mites from other mite remedies is its effectiveness at killing live mites AND mite eggs. All other mite remedies to my knowledge do not destroy mite eggs. As such, I have found the Nix method to be extremely effective at eradicating serious mite infestations. I even know of a pet store manager who sells several commercially produced mite remedies, yet uses the Nix method on imported snakes arriving at his store. Another pro to using Nix is economics. Around $10 will produce 4 litres of solution – much more than the largest private collection will ever require. You can also use Walmart brand name equate as well, and it is half the price.

There exists a popular reptile care site on the Internet that discusses the toxicity of Nix, but in the two cases cited, Nix was spread over the infested snakes in full concentration. Common sense should dictate that reptiles and amphibians coming in direct contact with any fully concentrated chemical that does not occur in their natural environment would yield deleterious, if not downright fatal, results. The use of Nix discussed below involves a diluted solution (1 part Nix to 68 parts water) that has never produced adverse reactions in any python or boa in my collection over the course of 6 years. In fact, some snakes in my collection are proactively treated every 6 months as they make appearances at semi-annual reptile shows and I am not willing to risk the chance of mites from other exhibitors making their way into my collection. Even routine treatments on these boas and pythons over the course of several years have yet to result in any negative effects.
Materials
• Spray bottle. Preferably one that has never been used, or at the very least, one that has never contained harsh chemicals and has been thoroughly rinsed.
• 56 g (59 ml) bottle of Nix. I have only ever found this one particular size of Nix, which can be sourced at most drug stores and some pharmacy sections of grocery stores for anywhere from $6-$12. Walmart's equate will work as well, and runs about $4. or $5.
• 4L (1 Gallon) jug of distilled water. Distilled water should be used to extend the shelf life of the solution. With distilled water, the solution’s effectiveness is expected to last up to 12 months as long as the solution is stored at room temperature and in a covered box (light breaks down the active ingredient found in Nix). Although, with one treatment and sound quarantine practices, the first treatment should be all that is necessary.

Creating the Nix Solution
• Pour the Nix cream into the 4L jug of distilled water. Nix is a fairly thick cream substance, so it may take a couple minutes to transfer as much of the cream into the jug of distilled water as possible.
• Replace the cap on the jug of distilled water and shake until the Nix cream is evenly distributed throughout the water. Again, this may take a few minutes due to the thick consistency of Nix.
• Pour the Nix solution into a spray bottle.

Eradicating Snake Mites
• If snake mites are only found on one snake or only in one snake enclosure, it is wise to conclude that mites have infested ALL snakes and their enclosures that are contained within the same room. Mites may have also transferred to snakes housed in another room by “hitchhiking on your hands or clothes. Therefore, absolutely all snakes and their terrariums should be treated to ensure 100% effectiveness.
• First, remove the snake from the enclosure and place in a Rubbermaid container. Spray the snake liberally with the Nix solution. Do not avoid spraying this solution on their head, eyes and heat pits – in fact, this is where mites commonly hide so spraying the head area is essential.
• Remove all substrate from the terrarium and throw away. Do not leave the garbage bag containing this old substrate anywhere in the house.
• Spray the entire enclosure, inside and out, including all cage furniture (branches, hide boxes, water bowl, etc.) and glass viewing area. Make sure that all corners and crevices are well covered with Nix solution, as this is where mites and their eggs are often hiding. Even spray the outside back of the cage and a 2-foot perimeter around the cage on the floor. The Nix residue that forms after drying is thought to even be effective at killing mites hiding out elsewhere in the room that may attempt to re-enter the snake cage.
• Replace the substrate with paper, preferably paper towel, as it is easy to spot mites on this. It is essential to use paper until you are absolutely certain that full eradication has been accomplished. I suggest waiting 3 weeks after the last live mite is spotted before using non-paper substrate.
• Remove water bowl from cage and replace, filled with water, 24 hours later. This ensures that the Nix solution is not washed off the snake by soaking in the water bowl before the active ingredient has had a chance to destroy all mites hiding under its scales.
• Return the snake to its enclosure and spray it, the cage, furniture and paper one more time.
• When the snake defecates during treatment, remove the paper and clean the messed area as usual, but be sure to re-spray the cleaned area and new paper with Nix solution.
• Repeat in 5-7 days twice, for a total of 3 treatments. With all likelihood, the last live mite will perish within a few hours of the first treatment, but repeating treatment is good practice in case the outbreak is severe and mites are able to re-enter cages.
Preventative Maintenance
Any snake entering a collection should be quarantined for 2-3 months, ideally in a completely separate room from where other snakes are housed, but at the very least in a separate cage. It should be assumed that any new snake has mites, regardless of how well respected the previous owner or pet store is. I have personally been let down on several occasions by leading breeders in our hobby, and from personal friends. It is my experience that employing the “better safe than sorry” approach is of paramount importance in ensuring mite breakouts never occur.

Given the above assumption new acquisitions, in addition to their cage and cage furniture, should be treated with Nix solution 3 times (one full treatment every 5-7 days). Same should hold true when a snake enters your colony for a breeding loan, even if it is your own specimen that was lent out and is returning. As previously mentioned, it is also wise to treat snakes that attend shows, where other exhibitors and spectators may have mite infestations. With the large number of people that handle your animals, or even just touch the enclosure in which your snakes are housed, the chance that a mite is hitchhiking on at least one of these snake enthusiasts at the show is good. Don’t become complacent and cut corners in this area, or you may find yourself right back where you started.

Cage furniture and substrate purchased at pet stores can also serve as mite vectors and should be treated with caution. Mite-free substrate can be purchased from pet stores that do not carry reptiles, from a livestock feed stores, or from landscape centres. Newly purchased cage furniture should be sprayed liberally with Nix solution. Highly porous cage furniture (wood hide boxes, branches, etc.) should be soaked in a 10% bleach solution for a day, then rinsed thoroughly, sprayed with Nix solution, and allowed to dry for a week.
 
in my own experience, I havent found any of the mite meds to work. they're to overpriced anyway in my opinion.

As for what I use, I use dawn dish soap. Never failed me so far, in 2-3 washes, no signs of mites. I've never had any reptile get sick or RI from it either.
 
Nagini said:
in my own experience, I havent found any of the mite meds to work. they're to overpriced anyway in my opinion.

As for what I use, I use dawn dish soap. Never failed me so far, in 2-3 washes, no signs of mites. I've never had any reptile get sick or RI from it either.

...

Ever want to just take someone's keyboard away, hit them in the face with a rolled up newspaper and tell them "No. Bad. No." in a firm tone of voice?
 
Seamus

We must perfect your technique with the keyboard!

I have been keeping snakes for 40 years and have used most of the known treatments including PAM, BlackNight, dishwashing liquid, and more. Because of the thread here on Fauna, I learned about "Equate Bedding Spray". I have been using it for a year now with great results. And it only costs 2.99 a can from WalMart! Can't beat that! I do rescues fro area shelters, so I treat everything that comes in whether mites are visible or not to play it safe.
 
Thanks all...

Thanks for all the info, all! I will pass it on to my friend in AZ who still has some of my old collection (that I miss). Oh, and about the keyboard technique...lol...forget the newspaper, the keyboard would be more readily accessible, and I am just sick enough of uneducated ignorance acted upon (I teach high school AgScience and Entomology) I would be prone to just hit upside the head with the keyboard but I guess the newspaper is more humane. :) Anyway, I appreciate all the new knowledge of mite remedies!
Keeley
 
Have a friend who has a severe mite problem with a snake, supposedly after trying some of the above listed techniques/sprays, etc. The snake is now being treated with Ivamex (sp?). It's injected into the rat that's being fed to the snake. Thoughts????
 
Ivomec (ivermectin) is used in mammals for controlling a variety of internal and external parasites. It has been used for reptiles with varying degrees of success. It can be administered topically, orally, or by injection. One of the problems associated with its use is that by the time it reaches an effective dose, it is highly toxic to reptiles (not so much a factor with topical use). I have used it for mite treatment in the past, but found that other methods are more effective and user/animal friendly.

Without knowing the details, it is difficult to try to point out errors in past treatment efforts, or suggest better alternatives...BUT, with severe mite infestations, consistency of treatment, maintenance of a clean environment, and area treatment are all very important. Mites can hide in hard to clean corners/joints, and under caulk or silicone sealants. They can leave the enclosure, and exist for some time without a host. They lay eggs which generally hatch within a few days, leading to population blooms.

Effective mite treatment involves ridding the enclosure(s) of anything that offers the mites protection: wood (or other porous) products, particulate substrates, etc. Regular cleaning and treatment of the enclosure(s). Regular treatment of the animal(s). Regular treatment of the surrounding area - interior and exterior portions of the enclosure, stand, rack, carpet, floor, drapes furniture...anything within a close proximity. "Regular treatment" will vary with the product - duration of treatment is dictated by the situation (you can't do it once, and think you are done...remember what I said about eggs hatching).
 
Other things that can help prevent or stop the spread are simple things like spacing out racks from each other as well as using some barrier methods such as adhesive strips face up between enclosures.
 
Realistically, the mites can cover enough distance in an hour to effectively bridge any spacing gap you might create...especially if the racks are in the same room. I'll have to do some looking to find it, but I have seen information about their rate of travel someplace (I want to say several inches to a foot per minute, depending on level of engorgement)
 
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