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New rack is complete

Nice rack Clay. I have a question though. I may be adding 3" flexiwatt to my already existing shoe box rack and thought that I would need to take it apart and put a groove into it. I noticed you have the boxes directly on top. Obviouisly you're not expecting the flexiwatt to get worn out by the rubbing. So would you say it okay for me to add the flexiwatt on top of the melamine(of my racks)? This would definately save me a lot of time.

Thanks
Kevin
 
The flexwatt on that rack is completely covered by foil tape so it is protected and rubbing isn't an issue.
If it isn't taped down then there is the possibility of wear over time as well as the problem of the boxes catching on the edge of the tape as they are slid in, which is aggravating.
 
Thanks Clay, I actually had some and didn't know it. I needed it to repair the grill one summer. Well that just saved me a bunch of work.

Kevin
 
I had seen this design before (probably Rio Bravo). I have been looking into building a new rack and I think this is the one I will try this time. Thanks Clay!!!!!
 
Nice to see a new rack design on your site. I like the look of the hollow core door racks. They look very thick and substantial, but are not extremely heavy like melamine. Also they have a nice wood finish to them. A room of those would look nice.

A few things I would add is that you didn't mention that when screwing in the shelves that the screws should only be placed on the outside and not through the middle of the hollow door. Also, at the beginning you say that the spacer boards should be 5 3/4" then later you say 6 3/4". It's not a big deal, but I can see a newbie to cage construction making those few mistakes.
 
Thanks for catching that spacer typo Matthew, I'll fix that.
And you're right, you can only screw through the edges. I guess I thought that would be self evident and it didn't occur to me to mention it. It would probably be best if I did though.
 
I have also built one rack and am working on a cage made from HC doors. I think they are a great choice, although I do recommend paying attention to quality, specifically looking for a door that has pine for the vertical interior frame and one where the pine is not beveled relative to the face of the door.

I also want to add that the horizontal sections of door can be screwed to the vertical doors with angled pocket holes. One the shelves with filler pieces you cut yourself this is easy, just make the filler pieces deep enough. For the shelves with a factory end make sure you know now deep the frame extends into the door. Do not overtighten as there will not be a lot of threads to hold in the skin of the vertical door. But it does work.

Honestly, with the right adhesive this is probably not even necessary, but it can be done.
 
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