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New Rosy Boa Owner

L

lds2

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I have just purchased my first Mexican Rosy Boa after reading the article in the new Reptiles annual. The article, and others I have read, seem to indicate that rosy boas are very susceptible to respiratory infections. Is this accurate, and if so, what have some of done to try and protect against this?

Also, is there a book or reference source out there for raising Rosy Boas? Thanks for your help.


Larry D. Stassin
 
While this is a little late in coming, I have never known rosies to be more suceptible to RI's.

In fact I have only had one minor RI in some 15yrs of keeping rosy boas.

Remeber, generally speaking, rosies come from a dry desert environment so high humidity is not needed or desirable.

Basic set up as follows:
10g aquarium or similar. Hot spot of 90h - 88L, cool side of about 80h - 75L (be sure to take temp readings on the floor of the cage, not on the walls), a hide on each end (they like tight little hides), and fresh water always available (shallow dish for babies) placed on cool end or middle.

Feed an appropriate sized meal (equal to or only slightly larger than widest point) every 7-10 days until about 1-2 yrs old, then go to about every 10-14 days.

A good starting point to learn more is

http://rosyboas.com/

If you have any more questions, don't be afraid to ask :) In my experience, rosies make excellent, hardy captives and are a joy to work with.
 
I have around 20 or so Rosys, ive never experienced a respiratory infection. Just keep in a very well ventilated cage. Some recommend to not leave water in the enclosure, and i do not. I offer Rosys water once a week, and leave it in over night. There is a decent book its called

Boas Rosy and Ground by Jerry G. Walls RE-130

also the website Snowkitten posted is a excellent site.
 
Thanks Micah I have the book by Walls. By chance, did you see my other post about Rosy feeding issues. Both of my baby rosy's went off feed around the first of November. In December I put them into hibernation for a month and then brought them out. Neither has fed yet. I did assist feed both on a couple of occasions these past three weeks to get something in their stomachs. Is this normal, if so, what should I do.

By the way, the temperature gradient is fine with about 89 degrees on the hot side and 75 degrees on the cool side.

Thanks for your help,

Larry D. Stassin
 
Seems like everything is in order.
As long as you maintain proper husbandry, then you shouldnt see any health problems arise, as is the case with all healthy reptiles.
They wont develope anything if they are maintained properly, and were healthy to begin with.
Good Luck with your new herp buddy.
 
Cage Temps

I've got our new Rosy in a 20 long with an under tank heat pad. I can only seem to get my warm end up to 75 and cool end is at 70. I'm using stick on thermometers located at the bottom of the wall. Should I be taking the temp on the surface of the substrate instead
 
I would go out and buy the wafer style thermometers, and place them directly onto the substrate. You will notice, ground temps will be warmer then the air temps. If the temps are still low, add a light during the day, or get a thermostat, and set it for the desired temp.
 
Subsrtate Temps

I laid a thermometer directly on the substrate as you suggested. On the hot end I'm at 87 and cold end is 70. Do you think thats ok even though air temps are dramaticly lower. We are having trouble with getting this guy to start feeding on his own. I was thinking that maybe temps were not right but now I'm thinking that may not be the problem.
 
The air temps are usually cooler. Thats fine. He spends I bet a lot of time on the ground, so the air temps obviously dont matter a whole much, unless he climbs a lot. Even if he is a climber it's not bad because then he can go up to cool off, or to the far side of the tank.
Always good to have a good heat gradient.
 
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