• Posted 12/19/2024.
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    I am still waiting on my developer to finish up on the Classifieds Control Panel so I can use it to encourage members into becoming paying members. Google Adsense has become a real burden on the viewing of this site, but honestly it is the ONLY source of income now that keeps it afloat. I tried offering disabling the ads being viewed by paying members, but apparently that is not enough incentive. Quite frankly, Google Adsense has dropped down to where it barely brings in enough daily to match even a single paid member per day. But it still gets the bills paid. But at what cost?

    So even without the classifieds control panel being complete, I believe I am going to have to disable those Google ads completely and likely disable some options here that have been free since going to the new platform. Like classified ad bumping, member name changes, and anything else I can use to encourage this site to be supported by the members instead of the Google Adsense ads.

    But there is risk involved. I will not pay out of pocket for very long during this last ditch experimental effort. If I find that the membership does not want to support this site with memberships, then I cannot support your being able to post your classified ads here for free. No, I am not intending to start charging for your posting ads here. I will just shut the site down and that will be it. I will be done with FaunaClassifieds. I certainly don't need this, and can live the rest of my life just fine without it. If I see that no one else really wants it to survive neither, then so be it. It goes away and you all can just go elsewhere to advertise your animals and merchandise.

    Not sure when this will take place, and I don't intend to give any further warning concerning the disabling of the Google Adsense. Just as there probably won't be any warning if I decide to close down this site. You will just come here and there will be some sort of message that the site is gone, and you have a nice day.

    I have been trying to make a go of this site for a very long time. And quite frankly, I am just tired of trying. I had hoped that enough people would be willing to help me help you all have a free outlet to offer your stuff for sale. But every year I see less and less people coming to this site, much less supporting it financially. That is fine. I tried. I retired the SerpenCo business about 14 years ago, so retiring out of this business completely is not that big if a step for me, nor will it be especially painful to do. When I was in Thailand, I did not check in here for three weeks. I didn't miss it even a little bit. So if you all want it to remain, it will be in your hands. I really don't care either way.

    =====================
    Some people have indicated that finding the method to contribute is rather difficult. And I have to admit, that it is not all that obvious. So to help, here is a thread to help as a quide. How to become a contributing member of FaunaClassifieds.

    And for the record, I will be shutting down the Google Adsense ads on January 1, 2025.
  • Responding to email notices you receive.
    **************************************************
    In short, DON'T! Email notices are to ONLY alert you of a reply to your private message or your ad on this site. Replying to the email just wastes your time as it goes NOWHERE, and probably pisses off the person you thought you replied to when they think you just ignored them. So instead of complaining to me about your messages not being replied to from this site via email, please READ that email notice that plainly states what you need to do in order to reply to who you are trying to converse with.

Poll for that nutrition Q...

What do you gut load your meal/superworms with?

  • Hog feed

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Corn free roach food

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    7
  • Poll closed .

YJHB

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Is corn is a junk ingredient for feeder insects? For ppl, it's hard to digest and may not be ideal for reptiles to get from their feeders. However, I keep seeing in care sheets on line recommendations to feed mealworms and superworms chicken feed and hog feed, both of which are high in corn! Does anybody see a problem with me using bran and oatmeal as a regular feed for the worms and power feeding the ones I'm feeding out to my new leo (a HISS creation, I can't wait to post her pix when she arrives on Wed) for a couple of days on the corn free food I'm using for my roaches that I feed to my chams?

The food is not corn based; it has probably nuts and grains in it, along with probably some kind of dog or cat food...I use both cricketfood.com's roach food and roach coach.

If this is not suitable, what do youall use?
 
If you're worried about corn, you'd better check the ingredient list on the dog and cat food you speak of using.....either corn or soy is the main ingredient in most of the cheaper brands, and even some of the more expensive ones, even though it isn't really very digestable protein for them either. ;)

I keep mine bedded in oatmeal, with some of the powdered gutload mixed in, and also put a few fresh veggies on the top as well.
 
Not sure about corn, but I wouldnt use anything that has soy in it, it can block the absorption of calcium. Bad news!

I use oats, bran, etc. for meals/supers, though I would like to find out what would be more nutritional.
 
I am with Wendy on this one, Cody as a great gut load. I have notice a huge difference in my geckos since swicthing over.
 
I also use Pro Gutload. That is some super stuff! The main ingredient is corn, yet my geckos are all healthier now then they were when I was using a homemade corn-free gutload.
 
I keep mine in rolled oats with some gutload mixed in. I also have a small tinfoil dish in the container that I put veggies in. I usually grab the worms that have been eating when its feeding time. It has worked great for me.
 
dragonflyreptiles said:
NOt on the poll but I use Progeckos gutload
Yeah, I'm a rank newbie when it comes to geckos...I'll look that up. I did keep ONE Koch's Day gecko for 9+ years before I had to have him put down due to a prolapse. I didn't catch it because I was moving at the time a few years back.
There's really no excuse though, I learned my lesson to STOP and check for problems EVERY DAY, not just throw their prey in when you're in a hurry.
 
Cat_72 said:
If you're worried about corn, you'd better check the ingredient list on the dog and cat food you speak of using.....either corn or soy is the main ingredient in most of the cheaper brands, and even some of the more expensive ones, even though it isn't really very digestable protein for them either. ;)

I keep mine bedded in oatmeal, with some of the powdered gutload mixed in, and also put a few fresh veggies on the top as well.
AAwwww, say it isn't so! I specifically asked cricketfood.com about the corn! BUT in all fairness to them, I am only guessing that they use dog or cat food from smelling and tasting it (I'll do anything for my pets quality of life) :crazy03:
I didn't realize that about soy, I thought it was one of the better proteins in terms of bioavailability...back to the drawing board for me...

I am going to answer each of these posts in turn; you all have no idea how grateful I am for this. Thank you so much for the time each of you took to answer my question - like I said in a previous post somewhere, you can't pay for the advice that the experts that talk to on Fauna can give!
 
groovygeckos said:
Not sure about corn, but I wouldnt use anything that has soy in it, it can block the absorption of calcium. Bad news!

I use oats, bran, etc. for meals/supers, though I would like to find out what would be more nutritional.

Oh, jeez, that's bad news.

I am going to past this sticky I found on another forum (I spent MANY hours researching) because it answers your last sentance, Dan. He is talking about full grown super beetles when he says about laying eggs- here goes:

Code Monkey - Half the container is straight dry unpacked peat. Experimenting has shown me they burrow in and lay eggs in the peat. I read a piece of damp cork bark is good, but, have found through trial and error that they actualy avoid the damp stuff in favor of dryer areas and I have a lower mortality rate and No mold. The other half Is oatmeal and other grainy cerial stuff. (All uncooked, dry, a left over packet here, a partial box there.) I get the kids Alot of those quick microwave hot cerials they like them and are great for the morning before school crazy time. I opened a pack of the unflavored cream of wheat, instant grits, and outmeal. Added a container of gutload(I add the gutload for my own tarantula nurtition peace of mind, neither the beetles or the worms need it, just my personal obsessing over giving the spiders good high nutrition pray items), any left over dry unsweatened cerial. (This time cheerios and there is a handful of rice crispies in there too) lat time was rice crispies and a halfful of special K. Nothing fancy. Just anything laying around that won't do to save like this I pour in an empty box and use for this substrat. The dredges left over by a bunch of kids.
The beetles munch at it all, the baby worms Go Nuts in it. Keeping the hydrating foods Off the substrate is a must. An old flat by the sink soap dish did the trick, a few left over vegies and a milk lid of clear water, beetles have all they need. The cover lid for the shoebox is cut out and meshed for lots of ventaliation.
Once the substrate in the beetle shoebox starts to plumet and you dig in a spot and find worms, (The substrate Wriths.) we put the beetles in a fresh shoebox so we don't have them climbing up our arms and don't have to worry about burrying them. I have a third shoebox for another move, and then can dump one worm load into the first and set it up to rotate again once the beetles fill another. So three shoebox's and five, 20 cell hobby boxes for worm pupating are being used. Just stack them in the closet or just about anywhere, I do not heat the worms or beetles, room temp seems fine even in central AC. The baby worms gobble and grow fast, so we add a handful of out left over dry cerial mix to replentish and let them eat and grow, picking out worms for the T's when we need them. Slings Love the babies and they are a Ton easier then dealing with pin head crickets and giving them a pinch before dropping them in is as easy as squeezing a hair. If you don;t like to touch them. (For anyone that doesn't) they are easy to grab with tweezers too.
I throw a piece of potato, carrot or cucumber, whatever left over vegi is around in a lid off the substrat for everyone. Though I have noticed the new worms don't bother with it much so i wil probably discontinue doing that in the baby worm box.
 
I use a mixture of Bran and Flukers Calcium cricket feed. With a carrot for moisture.
 
g&mgeckos said:
I am with Wendy on this one, Cody as a great gut load. I have notice a huge difference in my geckos since swicthing over.
Glenn, you and Wendy's real life experience here with healthier geckos is invaluable; I will post pix of the gecko you are helping the minute she arrives :)
I'm ordering that stuff ASAP (read: NOW)
 
A_Kendergirl said:
I also use Pro Gutload. That is some super stuff! The main ingredient is corn, yet my geckos are all healthier now then they were when I was using a homemade corn-free gutload.
This is odd to me with the corn being a major ingredient and all; the makers must use some special ingredient...I wonder if it is bee pollen? I am buying this gutload, and I do have pure bee pollen already on its way already from cricketfood for my chameleons' feeder gutload...Yvonne's great gecko experiment is ON! :)
 
tanias16 said:
I keep mine in rolled oats with some gutload mixed in. I also have a small tinfoil dish in the container that I put veggies in. I usually grab the worms that have been eating when its feeding time. It has worked great for me.
Yes, I have heard that keeping the hydrating stuff separate from their litter instead of pushing it into their dry litter is helpful in terms of stopping red mites. I've even heard of a "mite trap" you can make if you already have mite problems in your worm colonies.
 
mmfrankford said:
I use a mixture of Bran and Flukers Calcium cricket feed. With a carrot for moisture.
Carrots are high in a lot of good things, but I'm leery of calcium supplementation for inverts...I think I saw it somewhere it's not good for them or something, but maybe that just applies to roaches.
 
Last edited:
Most cricket growers use corn-based feed such as chicken mash, and there is not a real problem unless it is allowed to get wet. Non-human grade corn products are made from crops that are sub-standard and/or have suffered from blight... a fungal infestation that comes from too much moisture in the ears of corn caused by weather or leaky holding silos.

When these corn products are used in animal feeds and are allowed to become wet and moldy, they produce mycotoxins, (or aflatoxins), more specifically Aspergillus flavus which is very poisonous. The feeder insects can consume large quantities of this toxin with no ill affects, but when the animals that eat those poison-laden crickets continually over time these toxins can build up in their bodies and eventually cause death.

Dry dog food, cat food, and ferret food are made from these corn products, as well as unpasteurized meat by-products that can become rancid and cause bacterial growth. Do not use these products as gut-load to feed your crickets and mealworms. Stick with human grade corn and other grain products, and keep them dry.
 
Oh, WOW Marcia...I had no idea. How scary; I've heard this and that about wet gutload, but nobody has said excatly WHY like you just did. You sure do know your stuff.

Your post actually incited me to go upstairs to make sure that my roach bin foods were dry (they were, but it didn't hurt to check) THANK YOU!
 
Thanks Marcia! Was it you that posted about the meat products or fats in the dog/cat food being bad for Leos also?
 
groovygeckos said:
Was it you that posted about the meat products or fats in the dog/cat food being bad for Leos also?
Yes, it was me.
Golden Gate Geckos said:
Dry dog food, cat food, and ferret food are made from these corn products, as well as unpasteurized meat by-products that can become rancid and cause bacterial growth.
 
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