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Simplicity - Incubating eggs

dturner100

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Alright, one of the biggest questions you see running around now days other than "what morph is this?" is about incubating ball python eggs. "What substrate do you use?", "What mix of water/substrate is best?", "What temperatures are best?".

I don't know if 30 is old, but I remember an old saying: K.I.S.S
It means keep it simple stupid. In my 30 years of life I've tried to remember it any time I may be over thinking a situation.

Well my friends this definitely pertains to ball python breeding. Yes genetics can be hard for some to grasp, and even when we think we've got it all figured out something shows up that makes no sense. But the rest is simple.

So let's go over the basics of letting nature happen. What do ball python eggs need to hatch? 3 things that we can give them: Moisture, heat, and air. The rest is given by nature.

So #1 Moisture. Very simple. With a fairly even mix of substrate to water the tub will keep the perfect humidity levels if sealed. Simple as that. So how do we achieve it? For a typical ball python clutch up to 10 eggs I use a 6 qt sterilite tub. Cost 94 cents at wal-mart. I use a 50/50 mix of vermiculite and peralite ( either would be efficient on its own ). Then I use 125 grams of substrate and 125 grams of water by weight. Then I put the eggs in the tub, and cover the tube with cling wrap and then put the tub lid on. Simple.

Problems/solutions - Eggs wrinkling or denting ( eggs to dry ) add a bit of water to the substrate without getting it on or relatively close to the eggs. Remember the moisture needed will be absorbed as the eggs breath. These aren't plants they don't like to suck up the water.
Eggs molding - The problem that you can help is too much water. Simply un-cover the tub, and wipe away the excess moisture from the eggs. If they are still okay you'll know when they hatch. As well this may happen if the egg is no longer viable ( not fertile, dead in the egg... )

Heat - This is the simplest of all things to control. If anybody tells you that your temperatures have to be exact they're dead wrong. If you're breeding ball pythons then you know their most comfortable growth range. It's been proven that ball python eggs can hatch from 82 to 94 degrees. So do your ball pythons thrive at 82 degrees? No, but they survive. Same with 94 degrees and shortly above. So there are optimal temps I've found to be 89.9 but I don't worry when they go up to 92 or down to 87. These are still comfortable temps for a developing ball python egg.

Key to temperature - Don't skimp on a thermostat. Get the best that you can afford. This doesn't mean break the bank nor does it me just get what you can grab for $10. I use a herpastat II. It's a very reliable perportionate thermostat.

Air - How simple can this one be? You could quite literally not open the tub until the eggs hatch and they'd have enough air in the tub to survive. Snakes have a greatly lower metabolism than mammals do so they consume less air. BUT how many of us can go 55 to 65 days without checking on our eggs? Not many. SOOOOOOOOOOO yeah it's okay to open the tub every few days, and say that we're doing it to let air in.

Anyway I hope this helps. So please remember simplicity is KEY! Yeah light diffusers are cool. They may even serve a purpose, but if you don't know that purpose then why use them? Se what I mean? Don't tweak something if you haven't got the basics. I've never been to africa, but I'm sure no ball python mother surrounds her eggs with a wet paper towel because her eggs look too dry.

SIMPLE. REMEMBER. K.I.S.S
 
I agree for the most part..... Quality thermo like a herpstat a number one priority. The air issue as well. But while most still use vermiculite or perlite or a mixture of both, having tried it myself when first starting out with geckos I have to say water and light defuser is the most simple and fool proof method hands down. using it I keep a 99% reading on my hygrometer consistantly. The worst thing I have to worry about is nearing the hatch date I have to whipe a little condensation from the inside of the lid to keep it from dripping on the eggs. ( a domed lid would solve this as the water would run down and back into the tub. ) I lost gecko eggs due to humidity issues. Since using water and light defuser I have had a 100% hatch rate with my first 2 ball clutches and a third set to slit next week. 2-3 inches of water and I can hatch a clutch without ever having to re hydrate. In the end it boils down to personal preference.
 
I too use Diffuser, but i use vermiculite with it, it basically keeps the worry out of having too much water in the mix as the eggs are not sitting directly in the vermiculite, they sit on the diffuserwhich is above it, I havn't lost an egg since I started using it.
 
Indeed diffusers are great, but what I was pointing out is that it's not a necessity though. A lot of new breeders sit and worry about what they need to be doing.

Get your routine with what works, and stick to it. Simplicity will get you a good hatch rate. 100% in most cases.
 
never used a diffuser and probably never will. just mix up vermiculite in 1 to 1 ratio bury eggs half way and call it good. never lost a clutch of eggs in the 20 or so years doing it this way. i have used this method from gecko, monitor, snake eggs all work the same, it all has to do whith what you are comfortable with. Good topic guys.
 
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