brucestephenson
New member
I would like to know if any of you have long-term experience using Virosan on your leopard gecko and cricket boxes? What do you big guys and gals use to sterilize your set-ups? 
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Virosan: Do any of you have a lot of experience with it.
- Thread starter brucestephenson
- Start date
Gekkonida
Gecko Artist
I have used it for a couple years with ball pythons and leopard geckos. It has great efficacy in regard to killing fungicidal and bacterial agents. The key is using the right mix. I used to purchase it form Pro Exotics however, it is carried by a number of commercial places now so I try to mix my own. I have had no problems with using it at all. I don't use it for every cleaning but I try to use it a regular intervals.
Chris_Harper2
New member
Chlorhexadine
I have used a few different types of chlorhexadine-based disinfectants as well as other quaternary ammonia compounds.
One important note about chlorhexadine (Nolvasan, Virosan, etc.) is that it is not all that great in the presence of organic material. I realized it's marketed as such, but understand that this is only relative to other quaternary ammonia compounds. So yes, it outperforms other quats in the presence of organic matter, but it's still not very good overall. And typical reptile cage cleaning means a lot of organic matter.
Now with that said I still use it for spot cleaning or when doing quick water changes. But for truely disinfecting a cage, bowl, etc. I use a double disinfection regime. In other words, bleach first, rinse well, then Nolvasan. The bleach takes care of the organic matter, the Nolvasan the few viral contaiminants not killed by bleach. Getting rid of the organic matter makes the Nolvasan more effective and bleach is very effective in that regard.
On a related note, I recently was able to try a quat called A33 Dry. It has a foaming action and seems more effective at removing dried urate stains, etc. It is also very good at neutralizing odors. Even better than the scented Nolvasan that I probably would not recommend for herps.
In the standard lab performance tests it is more effective than Nolvasan as well. My vet has found a supplier and I will probably order more soon.
I have used a few different types of chlorhexadine-based disinfectants as well as other quaternary ammonia compounds.
One important note about chlorhexadine (Nolvasan, Virosan, etc.) is that it is not all that great in the presence of organic material. I realized it's marketed as such, but understand that this is only relative to other quaternary ammonia compounds. So yes, it outperforms other quats in the presence of organic matter, but it's still not very good overall. And typical reptile cage cleaning means a lot of organic matter.
Now with that said I still use it for spot cleaning or when doing quick water changes. But for truely disinfecting a cage, bowl, etc. I use a double disinfection regime. In other words, bleach first, rinse well, then Nolvasan. The bleach takes care of the organic matter, the Nolvasan the few viral contaiminants not killed by bleach. Getting rid of the organic matter makes the Nolvasan more effective and bleach is very effective in that regard.
On a related note, I recently was able to try a quat called A33 Dry. It has a foaming action and seems more effective at removing dried urate stains, etc. It is also very good at neutralizing odors. Even better than the scented Nolvasan that I probably would not recommend for herps.
In the standard lab performance tests it is more effective than Nolvasan as well. My vet has found a supplier and I will probably order more soon.
Xelda
sweet & sour
Chlorhexidine solutions are very effective against organic matter but only on the microbial level. That means you have to remove the poop and urates and all the dirt you can see with the naked eye BEFORE you apply the Virosan/Nolvasan in order for it to be most effective. Soap and water works well for this since it's within the nature of soap to loosen up the intermolecular forces that bind dirt to the surfaces you want to clean. For thorough cleaning, working from big to small is the key. Otherwise, it would be like taking a shower with your clothes on--you would still be dirty even after the shower because your clothes got in the way.