Easy and Affordable Cages/Racks using Pre-Cut Shelving!

I recently started to increase my Ball Python collection, and I was quickly running out of space. My new animals were basically sitting in sterilite tubs without a rack, and only getting the ambient temp of the room they were in.

I had to do something to get them setup properly. I have been thinking about building a plastic rack for a while but I still don't have all the right tools to do it, and after buying the new Ball Pythons (including some het albinos) my reptile budget was already dwindling, so I needed to find a cheaper alternative.

I came across this site, http://www.reptilianprojects.com/ladderrack.html

I already had a thermostat, heat tape, screws, etc. I basically had to buy the Melamine and the Tubs. I also didn't want to spend extra for the CB-70 tubs (not to mention I have yet to find a local store that has them anyway). Instead I found the 41qt sterilite tubs on on sale at target for $6.50 each (The link above shows the 48 qt being used, but they have been discontinued. The 41's are almost the same just a bit shorter, which can be good).

I didn't want an 8 foot tall rack, so I just bought two 8ft shelves and ripped them in half to make 4 four foot supports. I originally bought 6 of the 16 x 36" precut shelves but found out the slightly smaller boxes allowed me to make 7 shelves instead of just five!

I also used peg-board instead of tile board for the back. I bought a 2'x4' piece and ripped about 6 inches off so it was the same width as the rack.

Other then that I followed the instructions on that site and I wound up with an awesome 7 drawer ball python rack that cost me about $120.00 with tubs.

Some notes though if anyone else wants to try this. I think it will be much easier to assemble this upside down. Start with the top shelf and make it flush with the supports. If you are using the 41qt tubs like I did this should leave you 2-3 inches of extra space, which when flipped right side up will give you the perfect floor clearance.

I instead measured 2 inches up on each support and pre-drilled holes 2 inches in, as the directions said, but my work surface was not perfectly level. So, my rack therefore is slightly our of whack as well, but every drawer is opening and closing nicely so I don't care too much. It's nothing a little shim under one side cant fix, lol.

Here are some pics of my new rack system before I brought it inside. I didn't take pics during assembly since the instruction site kind of took care of that already .

Also another idea for the precut shelving at lowes or home depot. I have built 2 of these so far. I am sure I am not the first person to do this but I havent seen other people post it before.

Buy 1 16" x 96" shelf, and one 36" x 12" shelf. You cut the large shelf into 2 36" sections and 2 12" sections. Screw them together. The 36x12 shelf is the back, you need to rip about 2 inches off one side for it to fit in, remember measure twice cut once . A suggestion, dont let home depot employees do the cutting for you. I did once and I have a 34" cage instead of 36" as he didnt rip it evenly, so I had to cut the other one down to match, lol.

If you want a litter dam home depot has this outdoor wood that is white, it has a plastic coating, and they sell 1x2's. Just cut one of them to fit insde the bottom of the cage. This makes the perfect litter damn and it matches the cage. Now just install your doors, hinged, sliding, etc. Before the cost of the doors you can build a cage like this for under $50 bucks.

One last tip with this, if using sliding doors, instead of using those little tack nails the tracks come with, try glueing and clamping them instead. I did this the last time and it worked great. My thumbs werent throbing from missing those little tiny nails, and the doors slide much smoother without the nails underneath them. Only drawback is sanding all the excess glue away that seaps out while its curing, lol.

(By the way, this cage is brand new, it's just still got glue and sawdust all over it, not dirt, lol).

Another thread I came accross using similar directions. This is for a hatchling rack constructed from the 16" x 36" sheving at home depot.

http://www.faunaclassifieds.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67373

Also, for the cages that I posted above, for a 48" cage just buy 2 of the 16" x 96" (or 24" x 96" if you can find it) shelves, cut one into 2 48" pieces, cut the other into a 48" section and 2 24" sections. Build a box from the 2 48" and 2 24" peices, and then Rip a couple inches off one of the last 48" piece and it becomes the back. Install a litter dam and doors and you have a 48" x 16" x 24" cage.

rack plans

Wow I been looking for the right rack plans for a while. I also got these tubs from target for 6.50. I was looking for the pre made shelves but please explain how you use the shelves with these tubs?, the shelves are "16W and the tubs are "16 1/2w so wouldnt the tubs be snugged in the rack and not easily slide in and out

I thought the same thing, but upon building the first shelf and testing it out I discovered it makes no differance at all. The width measurement on the tub is at its widest point, which is the center of the tub. The tub is also extreamly flexible in the center, so it slides in and out very easily, the wider part just compresses a bit when the drawer is put in.

Before you do that check walmart in the hardware or housware department. Black an decker makes a shelf that is 36" x18" and they have 4 and 5 shelve units. The four is $27 and the five is $35. You have to build you a lid for the boxes but they work great at a great pice and they are sturdy and very easy to assemble.

Ill be sure to check for those next time I am in walmart. Thanks!

*****

*****

You know, I was just wondering if one of those plastic drawer-racks would work! Any downsides to it that you have encountered or any changes you had to make to it aside from adding heat? I love caging and design almost as much as my snakes...

liquidleaf said:

You know, I was just wondering if one of those plastic drawer-racks would work! Any downsides to it that you have encountered or any changes you had to make to it aside from adding heat? I love caging and design almost as much as my snakes...

Click to expand...

I have seen alot of them that have gaps or channels in the tops that would make for some easy escapes. If you find one like posted above though, it could probably work. I just never came accross one that looked to be escape proof.