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what should i do

Blessed626

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i breed my female het ghost to my orange ghost male now i thank about it what should i do with the babies when they are born hold them back or sell them
 
It is really about personal preference. There are some factors to think about


  • Do you have the space for them?
  • Are you willing to invest the time and money in them to wait for them to be up to breeding age/size?
  • Are you in desperate need of money?


If you have the space and are willing to wait, then go ahead and hold back. If not, or if you need money, go ahead and sell them.



You could also just pick one or two to hold back and sell the rest. Like I said, it really just depends on your personal situation.
 
It is really about personal preference. There are some factors to think about


  • Do you have the space for them?
  • Are you willing to invest the time and money in them to wait for them to be up to breeding age/size?
  • Are you in desperate need of money?


If you have the space and are willing to wait, then go ahead and hold back. If not, or if you need money, go ahead and sell them.



You could also just pick one or two to hold back and sell the rest. Like I said, it really just depends on your personal situation.

Agree with him totally..
 
Definitly sell all the males, any females you produce hold them back and raise them to they get about a 1000grams or so then make a decision if you going to keep them or not. 1000grams females will be worth more money then hatchlings and u will have the option to keep and breed or trade one of those 1000gram females for a codom het ghost male.
 
First this is a choice that should have been considered long before you even started pairing. 4-12 eggs possible is alot of mouths to house and feed, if it isn't thought out well. I will have somewhere between 30-50 hatchlings this year (hopefully) and you need to procur indinidual housing for them while you grow them out or wait to sell them. You have to have an available food source (rat pinks, mice hoppers) because it's rare for a hatchling to take F/t in the begining. If you try to sell and they don't move fast (you are new and may end up with alot of hets) you will need to keep them until they do. Breeding is NOT something that should be done without forethought and a significant amount of prep work.

On a side note, 1,000 gram females are not always going to be worth more then a hatchling. Take a girl who took 3 years to get up to 1000 grams, chances are she will be worth about what you could have got for a hatchling 3 years prior and that's not including the feeders you've dumped into them.

I do agree to hold onto them for a bit, but I prefer the 3-600 gram range to make my choice. This way you have them long enough to have an idea of who will eat best for you, and whose colors are coming out the best, but not long enough that you are stuck with slow growers while the value depriciates.. Good luck either way
 
First this is a choice that should have been considered long before you even started pairing. 4-12 eggs possible is alot of mouths to house and feed, if it isn't thought out well. I will have somewhere between 30-50 hatchlings this year (hopefully) and you need to procur indinidual housing for them while you grow them out or wait to sell them. You have to have an available food source (rat pinks, mice hoppers) because it's rare for a hatchling to take F/t in the begining. If you try to sell and they don't move fast (you are new and may end up with alot of hets) you will need to keep them until they do. Breeding is NOT something that should be done without forethought and a significant amount of prep work.

On a side note, 1,000 gram females are not always going to be worth more then a hatchling. Take a girl who took 3 years to get up to 1000 grams, chances are she will be worth about what you could have got for a hatchling 3 years prior and that's not including the feeders you've dumped into them.

I do agree to hold onto them for a bit, but I prefer the 3-600 gram range to make my choice. This way you have them long enough to have an idea of who will eat best for you, and whose colors are coming out the best, but not long enough that you are stuck with slow growers while the value depriciates.. Good luck either way

Lol are serious MR.Big? 1000gram female of any morph is worth more then its hatchling form no matter how long it takes to grow.
 
I never hatched out any baby that took 3years to get to size, its all about having good stock and if you have a female thats a picky eater that mean she is not hardy and wont adapt to change very well.
 
Lol are serious MR.Big? 1000gram female of any morph is worth more then its hatchling form no matter how long it takes to grow.

What he is saying is that if you have a animal thats 1000 grams at 3 years old, it is not going to be priced as a 1000 gram 1 year old. When I look at buying a snake I want to know how old it is to determine what its worth to me. I have seen a female get to almost 2000 grams in a year and a half, where a 3 year old female was still around 1200. In that case I would take the 6 month old 400-500 gram female way before a 1000 gram 3 year old. I have 3 females I held back and they all were just pounding rats. Two of them are 600+ grams in 35 tubs, the other 200+ still in a baby rack. So the thought of just have good stock doesn't work. Just be happy about those that gain fast and try not to cuss at those that gain as they would in the wild!

As for the OP question, I would hold back the visual females. You can use them in the next couple years to prove things out, or plug your morphs into them to make hets. The added het might make a sale easier for you, or more money. The amount that you could sell them for will not be close to what you could make it you plug a 2 or 3 gene male into them. But like Mr. Big said, make sure you have room and able to feed and such. Can always grow them a little then use for a trade.
 
Exactly Randy. I was also refering to snakes that are "base" morphs. Pefect example would be if you hatched a slow grower bumblebee 3 years ago. The going rate for a female hatchling was what 12-1600 $? That's all you would get for a 3 y/o 1-200 gram girl now, but how much food have you put into? or wasted because she didn't eat it? I also wouldn't be real eager to buy a 3 y/o that grew that slow, unless she was exceptional. If you take a gene like the desert, 2-3 years could be the difference of $10,000+ if you had an early female versus one now. So a 1,000 gram girl is not always going to be worth more or even equal to a hatchling. I will agree that for most base morphs, you are correct a 1,000 gram girl will be worth more. But I'm with Randy, that i don't just take into account the weight, you must factor in age so that you get a true picture of what a snake will realistically do for you in the future..
 
I understand that you dnt want a 3year old female that doesnt have size, i was just saying that he could them to 1000grams in 1year because with my experiences that what i have done. I wasnt including the factor of some of the babies not eating, plus if they are not eating how are your losing money? if they dont eat u take rat or whatever you feed with and give it to the next one that is eating. I dont see how your wasting money if a snake doesnt eat maybe your wasting time but not money.
 
I dont see how your wasting money if a snake doesnt eat maybe your wasting time but not money.

thats true as far as your food bill, but not the over all picture. When you get bigger you look at what your going to keep behind different. If I keep 2 snakes from each clutch, thats a new rack. Freedom breeder put me over $2000, $900 for a vision. Now at some point you run out of room so you have to sell some or move to a bigger room. In this case Mr. Big is right in selling as a baby, unless its a higher end morph. When your smaller its good to keep back females to advance yourself, but as you get bigger move what you dont have plans for as fast as you can. The difference of taking care of 100 snakes is not 10 times that of 10 snakes. You have more racks, more precautions, more breedings, more stuff you must stock. You must think of mite treatment and health much more than with 10 snakes. Most people can handle the proper care for half a dozen snakes, but the more they get the level of care goes down. I am just a firm believer that you only keep something for a specific project to make quality animals. For smaller keepers I would recommend keep a nice small collection with a high end male that will produce the profits you want while keeping quality and care high. Once again, this is my opinion and there are those reading this that think I am a complete idiot:thumbsup:
 
thats true as far as your food bill, but not the over all picture. When you get bigger you look at what your going to keep behind different. If I keep 2 snakes from each clutch, thats a new rack. Freedom breeder put me over $2000, $900 for a vision. Now at some point you run out of room so you have to sell some or move to a bigger room. In this case Mr. Big is right in selling as a baby, unless its a higher end morph. When your smaller its good to keep back females to advance yourself, but as you get bigger move what you dont have plans for as fast as you can. The difference of taking care of 100 snakes is not 10 times that of 10 snakes. You have more racks, more precautions, more breedings, more stuff you must stock. You must think of mite treatment and health much more than with 10 snakes. Most people can handle the proper care for half a dozen snakes, but the more they get the level of care goes down. I am just a firm believer that you only keep something for a specific project to make quality animals. For smaller keepers I would recommend keep a nice small collection with a high end male that will produce the profits you want while keeping quality and care high. Once again, this is my opinion and there are those reading this that think I am a complete idiot:thumbsup:

I agree 100% randy, but what i was telling the guy to do was keep his females point blank. He will find out who eats good and who doesnt, its too many factors that come into play so that comments that were made are all correct in its own little way.
 
I agree 100% randy, but what i was telling the guy to do was keep his females point blank. He will find out who eats good and who doesnt, its too many factors that come into play so that comments that were made are all correct in its own little way.

no worries, I am not here to bust anyones balls. I still haven't mastered walking on water so I am not the man to judge! I agree he should keep the females to further himself. As usual I make my comments to try and enlighten people to think about the whole picture and get people to talk no matter how many people think I am stupid for it. :thumbsup:
 
no worries, I am not here to bust anyones balls. I still haven't mastered walking on water so I am not the man to judge! I agree he should keep the females to further himself. As usual I make my comments to try and enlighten people to think about the whole picture and get people to talk no matter how many people think I am stupid for it. :thumbsup:

its all good man, just healthy conversations thats all. I like it, mr.big you are a very smart guy and helped me on several problems i had.
 
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