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Heating 41qt with a undertank heater?

blackandblue_lulu

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I have a question about heating. I have a Retitherm U.T.H. under tank heater I bought a few months back for my 33 gal aquarium. I now have two 41 qt sterlite tubs but it says "don't use on plastic... terrariums except those made of glass"

I don't need a rack system yet, so I wanted to just keep it simple and put heating under the tubs for a more portable feel. also how do I control the temperature? I really just want to buy one thing with a dial.

My better question is, can I still use the Retitherm U.T.H. under tank heater I purchased (was planning on buying a second one) or will this 1. destroy my tubs and 2. not produce enough heat.

Thanks alot!

getting my first two ball pythons next month! :D
 
I called the company and they said This WILL NOT work with sterilite tubs. None of their products will.

so can some one direct me to something I can use. maybe flex watt... but I would need a rack system right?
 
If you dont want to do a rack I would buy a piece of flexwatt and set tubs side by side and run one piece under both tubs. You will need a thermostat also. If it were me I would keep an eye at shows and craigslist and look for a cheap rack, you may not need it now but you will.
 
Typical zoo-med response, LOL

Crappy heat source but there's absolutely no reason that is can't be used under a plastic tub.
Personally I would order some flexwatt prewired from Reptile basics and a thermostat off of amazon.com.

also how do I control the temperature?
With a thermostat, no underbelly heat should ever be used without a thermostat, not even a ultratherm which is supposedly designed to be used without a thermostat.
Reptitemp 500R or a hydrofarm thermostats are cheap and work "ok"...

Do remember that ball pythons can escape from tubs, even locking lid tubs are not safe unless you use additional measures to keep the lids down.
If you want to do something cheap and safe I suggest using a cheap new or used melamine book shelf to hold the heat tape and tubs...
melamineshelf.jpg
 
If I could get a link on where to buy something to control temperature for flexwatt tape much would be appreciated! :)

I really just need to get this part out of the way. lol
 
Don't skimp on important piece of equipment. Ya dimmer switch will work. Somebody bumps it cooks snakes or turns off then u have a problem. Get helix or herpstat. Well worth money and piece of mind
 
Don't skimp on important piece of equipment. Ya dimmer switch will work. Somebody bumps it cooks snakes or turns off then u have a problem. Get helix or herpstat. Well worth money and piece of mind


Totally agree with you! My boy friend was nice enough to buy the heating and environments so I'm trying to keep it cheap.

We will make this the most expensive part.
 
I would agree with getting some flexwatt for heating, and a good thermostat to control it. If you absolutely can't afford a herpstat or helix, I have known people who have had success with ranco's.

For the flexwatt, you could get a couple feet of 3 or 4", which will have to be wired. Flexwatt is like that heating pad, but comes in a roll and is cut to length. You'll need to order, or cut it, to size and then wire it. There's two ways to do that: you could either solder it, if you are comfortable with doing something like that...or use the clips they have available. I've noticed that the soldering is prefered by a good amount of people, and is the method I use. Whichever route, this will give you your capability for heat. Just make sure you control this with a good thermostat and not just plut it into the wall, or you are asking for bad things to happen.

I tried a light dimmer before, for individual enclosures...I had nothing but bad experiences. There would be cutouts in the power at random points on the adjustment slide, and the temps were really inconsistant. It doesnt account for any of the environmental temperature changes. If you have it set at 50%, and your house goes up 10 degrees, your enclosure is now 10 degrees too hot. Ball pythons don't enjoy fluctuation.

Anyway, hope that was a bit of help.
 
I would agree with getting some flexwatt for heating, and a good thermostat to control it. If you absolutely can't afford a herpstat or helix, I have known people who have had success with ranco's.

For the flexwatt, you could get a couple feet of 3 or 4", which will have to be wired. Flexwatt is like that heating pad, but comes in a roll and is cut to length. You'll need to order, or cut it, to size and then wire it. There's two ways to do that: you could either solder it, if you are comfortable with doing something like that...or use the clips they have available. I've noticed that the soldering is prefered by a good amount of people, and is the method I use. Whichever route, this will give you your capability for heat. Just make sure you control this with a good thermostat and not just plut it into the wall, or you are asking for bad things to happen.

I tried a light dimmer before, for individual enclosures...I had nothing but bad experiences. There would be cutouts in the power at random points on the adjustment slide, and the temps were really inconsistent. It doesn't account for any of the environmental temperature changes. If you have it set at 50%, and your house goes up 10 degrees, your enclosure is now 10 degrees too hot. Ball pythons don't enjoy fluctuation.

Anyway, hope that was a bit of help.

Thanks! The flexwatt is not an issue, I've looked up how to wire it and such. I will NOT be going with the dimmer since I've heard so many doubtful things. I just want what's best for the snake. I will look into the ranco.

Thanks again for the feedback!
 
Flexwatt is under 4 bucks a foot and does the same exact thing.
ultratherms are great for other species but imo does not create enough belly heat for a ball python and 1 pad cost as much as enough flexwatt for 6 tubs.

If you set up the shelving and measure from shelf to shelf and give reptile basics the lengths between shelves they will wire it up for you. You will also need to buy the clips, covers and wire sets though.
Not my preferred way, we solder all of our connections, but much better than what your dealing with now and by far less expensive than ultratherms.
 
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