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whats a good snake

I might do that if I get a snake thats arboreal or semi one e.e, is there any holders for the tubes at those places so I can either glue it in there or use duck tape lol
 
I might do that if I get a snake thats arboreal or semi one e.e, is there any holders for the tubes at those places so I can either glue it in there or use duck tape lol
I drill holes in on either side and stick the branch in. This away I can remove it easily, some people use a soldering iron too. Tape is not to be used on the inside of a snake cage.
 
ah alright and I cant drill a hole :/ the tank is glass if I drilled it, the glass would break hints why I said glue or tape for it
 
ah alright and I cant drill a hole :/ the tank is glass if I drilled it, the glass would break hints why I said glue or tape for it
You can use certain tools if you really want too, you can also just make free standing perches out of PVC pipe or let the branch rest diagonally. Are you still thinking of the carpet? I started with a ball python and always recommend them to people at some point.

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im trying to stay away from the "common" snakes like the ones they sell at petco and petsmart lol eh im thinking about GTP and carpet python ...still want more of an option snake list to be at least 5 on there so far only 2 for consideration
 
im trying to stay away from the "common" snakes like the ones they sell at petco and petsmart lol eh im thinking about GTP and carpet python ...still want more of an option snake list to be at least 5 on there so far only 2 for consideration
Bloods are good, Sand boas are a little squirmy in hand but are cool, Rainbow boas, amazon tree boas can be a little hardier than emeralds.
 
yeaa see this confuses me because people say GTB and GTP are mean and are agressesive yet I see people handling adult and babie of those species and there laid back ...it confuses me really

I think that the key here is that it is POSSIBLE to handle these snakes but that they are not the ones that tolerate it the best.

If you want a snake that you can handle regularly (and I certainly do, to me it's the best part of snake ownership, but it isn't important to everyone) you want one that will not be stressed by being made to tolerate something it is not in its nature to want.
 
ah ok ^^ hmm how big to bloods get? and arent emeralds a little less aggressive then ATB's?

ah ok ^^ hmm how big to bloods get? and arent emeralds a little less aggressive then ATB's?
Average is about 6ft. Real nice medium size snake. This is a young Borneo blood I had in the classifieds for awhile...still debating on whether or not to re list him.uploadfromtaptalk1404681155696.jpg
 
I think that the key here is that it is POSSIBLE to handle these snakes but that they are not the ones that tolerate it the best.

If you want a snake that you can handle regularly (and I certainly do, to me it's the best part of snake ownership, but it isn't important to everyone) you want one that will not be stressed by being made to tolerate something it is not in its nature to want.
I respect opinions like this but realistically things do not add up. In most cases, the snake has been raised in a temperature controlled "box" with dead prey and has been given the opportunity to thrive regardless of phenotype, sex, initial willingness, etc... . The call to nature is already gone. I have a little bit of everything and after seriously thinking about the behavior of my own animals, many of my arboreals "enjoy/utilize to their advantage/tolerate/do not care" about handling better than many of my balls. Chondros/emeralds are naturally alert snakes and once out of the cage will spend a few seconds doing quick tongue flicks before slowing down and casually gliding off their branch, performing slow lengthy tongue flicks. The longer ones indicate no sense of urgency or anticipation of harm, obviously they do not imply "happiness" either. Handling any snake is best kept under 30 minutes and in peace. Do not expect to take your chondro to a frat party, if you give him a broom handle though, he may drive you and pick you up...maybe.
 
I think that the key here is that it is POSSIBLE to handle these snakes but that they are not the ones that tolerate it the best.

If you want a snake that you can handle regularly (and I certainly do, to me it's the best part of snake ownership, but it isn't important to everyone) you want one that will not be stressed by being made to tolerate something it is not in its nature to want.


Yeaa I really do want to be able to handle it for a bit honestly that is the best part of owning a snake in my opinion
 
I respect opinions like this but realistically things do not add up. In most cases, the snake has been raised in a temperature controlled "box" with dead prey and has been given the opportunity to thrive regardless of phenotype, sex, initial willingness, etc... . The call to nature is already gone. I have a little bit of everything and after seriously thinking about the behavior of my own animals, many of my arboreals "enjoy/utilize to their advantage/tolerate/do not care" about handling better than many of my balls. Chondros/emeralds are naturally alert snakes and once out of the cage will spend a few seconds doing quick tongue flicks before slowing down and casually gliding off their branch, performing slow lengthy tongue flicks. The longer ones indicate no sense of urgency or anticipation of harm, obviously they do not imply "happiness" either. Handling any snake is best kept under 30 minutes and in peace. Do not expect to take your chondro to a frat party, if you give him a broom handle though, he may drive you and pick you up...maybe.

lol I dont do frat partys and if I did my snake would never go I dont want it to be stressed really, and thats cool always thought it was reverse btw the arborels and boas o.o
 
Something smaller, pretty, and somewhat uncommon would be a rosy boa but you want something bigger

yeaa I do at least 7.5 at some point in time unless there exotic like GTP or GTB or some cool color (takes a lot of color to impress me or unusual markings lol)
 
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