• In case most of you have not noticed, I made changes to the donation amounts as well as the durations for all of the paid membership levels. Things are winding down here, and this seems to be the most prudent way to deal with the "end of life" period of this site.

    Contributor level members - $10 per 30 days
    Sponsors - Eliminated
    Benefactor level members - $25 per 30 days
    Endowment level members - $50 per 30 days

    Account Upgrades Page
  • Responding to email notices you receive.
    **************************************************
    In short, DON'T! Email notices are to ONLY alert you of a reply to your private message or your ad on this site. Replying to the email just wastes your time as it goes NOWHERE, and probably pisses off the person you thought you replied to when they think you just ignored them. So instead of complaining to me about your messages not being replied to from this site via email, please READ that email notice that plainly states what you need to do in order to reply to who you are trying to converse with.

Opinions on rack heat options?

HerpKeeperVA

New member
Joined
Jul 27, 2006
Messages
93
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Age
44
Location
Virginia
I'm going to start building a rack at some point this week. I'm leaning more towards building one with solid sides to help hold in heat. I'll be using 41 quart Sterilite tubs, and due to space issues the tubs will slide in width wise (the unit will be wider than it is deep, if that makes more sense). There will be 9 sections. Heat tape will be applied to one side of the first 7 either by 11 inch belly heat or 4 inch back heat. The upper most cubby will have heat along the back wall and will be used to hold smaller tubs for hatchlings as needed. The bottom most section will be for storage and will have no heat.

Here's a rough example of what I'm talking about. This is an overhead view of one of the sections holding a 41 quart tub.
Untitled.png


Now with the heat strip being so close to the open portion of the shelf, would the 4 inch heat tape against the wall be sufficient? Or should I just go with the belly heat?

Thanks!
 
The only thing that I can see is that if you are running more than one strip of flexwatt on a tstat, all of the strips have to be the same wattage and length for it to have any accuracy at all.

I have one rack with back heat and one with belly heat, both 4" flexwatt, and I hart the belly heat quite a bit. It seems to be more efficient than the back heat and more consistent between tubs, too.
 
The only thing that I can see is that if you are running more than one strip of flexwatt on a tstat, all of the strips have to be the same wattage and length for it to have any accuracy at all.


I'm glad you mentioned this as I hadn't thought about that at all. This will be my first time working with flexwatt, so it'll be an experience for sure.

I may go with the 4" belly heat then, rather than the 11". Thanks!
 
.............and I hart the belly heat quite a bit. It seems to be more efficient than the back heat and more consistent between tubs, too.

100% agree with Erik; in my experience, belly heat works most efficiently and evenly. That's not to say back heat doesn't work with smaller applications, but you'll probably see the 'power on' light on your thermostat illuminated more often with back heat.
 
I agree with John about agreeing with Erik. I like the belly heat much more than back heat. For me to get the desired temp with back heat I have to have everything running basicly at full power. The tubs I use may have somthing to do with that. However with the belly heat I am able to tone it down a lot and still get the temps I am looking for.
 
Back
Top