Wanting Banded Gecko -Need Help-

I am wanting to adopt a Banded Gecko (Texas/Utah, or Western) and I am needing to know everything needed for it.

I have been looking up ALOT about them, and found some things, but, some of those 'things' I don't have a clue what they are!

-Caging-
Bottom::::
Sifted playsand: Like.. playsand little kids play in, like what you buy from Wal*Mart or something?
Newspaper: Would really rather using sand, or something diffrent.
Repti Carpet: I know what that is... but, is sand better? Or can this go by itself, or will I have to put something else in there?
Papertowel: Was thinking about having sand in there, with one side with no sand, and wet papertowl in corner?



; It also said Cocofiber and fine sand can be mixed for the bottom caging, and heavily misted every other day.



and is a 15 Quart --SWEATER (???)-- box needed? It said something about having one for your Gecko?





Heating::::
Standard 75 watt heat lamp? No UVB needed?




Tempatures::::
Hot side: Not exceed 100f, keeping it around 85-95?
Cool side: 70's




Questions I have:::
What exactly is Hepative Vitamins? It said to use if wanted? So, this isn't NEEDED?


Andddddd... Dusting with calcium (food or something) I am totally lost on that!

And... Heat tape? What's that?




What is needed/going to be gotten::::
Thermostat
Maybe some moss
and.. what is Cocofiber? Can I get it at Petsmart or Petco?


Feeding::::
3-4 times a week?
What do they eat?



Please reply ASAP.
Thankyou.
-Kelsie

Well you best bet is to look through the forums here and do a web search on the subject which will give you tons of info...Randy

You can also look up care information pertaining to leopard geckos. The caging requirements are the same and the information is much more common.

Since this is more of a question on the needs of the specific animal rather than a general caging question, you might be better served asking in the gecko forum
http://www.faunaclassifieds.com/foru...splay.php?f=93

My website is being re-designed so I'm not sure my care sheet is coming up... but here it is, as well as a photo of one of my naturalistic set-ups for Banded Geckos:

Facts:
The scientific name for the Western Banded Gecko is Coleonyx variegatus, which means "a sheath and nail or claw" in Greek, and "variation" in Latin. They are members of the Gekkonidae-- or Gecko family. Banded Geckos are terrestrial lizards, or ground dwelling, originally from the arid, desert regions in the Southwestern United States. Banded Geckos are mainly "nocturnal" which means they hunt for food at night, and are generally less active during the day.

Description:
Western Banded Geckos are very small lizards with yellow or tan pigment with bands or aberrant patterns of black. The average size of a full-grown adult is approximately 3 - 3.5” snout to tail tip.

Housing:
As a general rule, allow about 8 square inches of surface area per adult Banded Gecko. These geckos like to hide in cave-like dwellings kept on the warm side of their enclosure. Adult male Banded Geckos must never be housed together in the same vivarium or they will fight and injure or kill each other. A single male can be kept with several females, and several females can share the same enclosure. However, if Banded Geckos are housed in crowded conditions, they may become territorial and fight over space, and especially food. Larger, older, and more dominant geckos may sometimes bully and intimidate smaller, weaker or younger ones. Do NOT house adult Banded Geckos with babies or any other reptile species under any circumstances.

Substrates:
Banded Geckos come from areas where there is hard-pack sandy soil strewn with granite rocks. For naturalistic enclosures, rocks and gravel may be used is they are a size that cannot be easily ingested by the geckos. Nearly all breeders will agree that paper towels or newspaper are the best choice.

Handling:
Western Banded geckos are rather skittish and usually do not tolerate much handling. When you must handle your gecko, it is best to slowly offer your hand, kept low with your palm up, before picking them up. Avoid reaching down from over their head to grab them because they may become startled thinking you are a predator coming down to attack them. Always handle your Banded Gecko with care, and never grab it by the tail. Like all lizards, when they are attacked or threatened they can "drop" their tails. When a lizard loses its tail, it becomes vulnerable to disease and infection until it grows a new one. Banded Geckos will eventually grow new tails, but the regenerated ones are never quite as nice as the original. Since they are desert dwellers, they store water, fat, and nutrients in their tail.

Lighting:
Unlike most other reptiles that bask in the sun to keep warm and to assimilate Vitamin D from natural sunlight, Banded Geckos are mainly nocturnal so they do not require special lighting. Keep in mind that additional overhead lighting will raise the temperature in the enclosure. Be aware that Banded Geckos' eyes are very sensitive and their eyesight is poor in bright light. Never expose your gecko to direct sunlight.

Heating:
All reptiles are cold-blooded and rely on the temperature of their surrounding environment to keep warm or cool. Use an under tank (UTH) heater on one side only of the Banded Gecko's enclosure, thus allowing them to move back and forth within the tank to adjust their own body temperature. This is known as thermal regulation, and it is critical for their metabolism, digestion and immune systems. The ideal temperature for Banded Geckos is around 90-94° on the warm side of their enclosure, and normal room temperature (around 70-74°) on the cool side. Using UTH’s is recommended instead of overhead heat sources since they utilize the heat absorbed from the sun in the rocks in their natural habitat to aid in their digestion.

Shedding:
Reptiles shed their skin on regular basis, and Banded Geckos should molt about every 2-4 weeks. Unlike some other reptiles, Banded Geckos will eat the skin after it comes off, so don't be alarmed if you don't see any shed skin in their enclosure! It is extremely important that ALL the skin comes off, especially from the eyelids and toes, as geckos can lose their digits to infection if the skin does not completely shed. Soaking your Banded Gecko's feet in 1-2 inches of warm water and then using a Q-tip will help remove any residual skin from their toes, and a Q-tip with mild saline solution or warm water will help take it off of their eyelids. Be very gentle! If shedding is a problem for your Banded Gecko, it may be necessary to keep the substrate around their cave moist by misting it with water, placing a damp paper towel inside, or adding a separate, moist hide in their enclosure.

Feeding:
Banded Geckos mainly eat live crickets, mealworms, and occasional waxworms. Be careful not to feed them anything larger than about 3/4 the size of their heads to prevent choking. Babies should be fed 4-6 very small crickets or mealworms every day until they reach about 2 inches in length, then larger prey every other day until they become full-grown in about 10 -12 months. Adults can be fed 6-7 larger crickets or mealworms 2 or 3 times a week. Giving your gecko a variety of foods is recommended.

Supplements:
Food items must be "dusted" with a mixture of ultra-fine calcium powder every 2 or 3 feedings, and reptile vitamins once a week. Obtain commercial reptile calcium power and vitamins such as Sticky-Tongue "Miner-All", RepCal, Zoo-Med, or Fluker products. Mix 2 parts calcium powder to 1 part vitamin powder in a zip-lock bag or commercial cricket duster and "dust" live food items prior to feeding by shaking them gently in the bag or container. The health of your Banded Gecko is dependent on the proper supplementation of calcium and vitamins in their diet; otherwise, serious diseases can result. Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) is caused by calcium deficiency, and can permanently disfigure or ultimately kill your gecko.

Gut Loading:
Live crickets and mealworms should be fed nutritious food like pieces of whole grain cereal, oatmeal, squash, pumpkin, sweet potatoes, collard greens, and a slice of red potato for moisture.

Quarantine:
Regardless of where you get your Leopard Gecko it is critical that when you get any new addition to your Banded Gecko colony, the new gecko(s) must be quarantined from any of your existing reptiles for at least 30 days, but 90 days is preferred. Countless reptiles have suffered and died needlessly as a result of one gecko infected with disease or parasites and transmitting it to others.

Marcia, here's a pic of a china cabinet that I'm going to convert to levels of leopard gecko enclosures. I want the natural look like yours above. I'll take out the glass shelves so the flexwatt heat tape won't make the lower enclosure to hot for the next gecko's and replace with a thin sheet of plyboard, put the tape on top of that and then a 1/8" thick plastic sheet over the entire board so it doesnt get wet or the gecko's get burned and seal it in. Then the same environment as yours. Replace the back mirror with peg board (plyboard with holes) for air circulation. Put the jungle theme paper on the outside of the side glasses and a good seal around the front door. Sound about right?