Brooksi Kings and Brumation

Since Brooksi Kings descend from Florida where it is warm/hot yr round, do you think cooling is needed to produce viable clutches?

Thanks

Ok I am kinda knew to the cool down king snake breeding thing but I think I know this one. Plus I get irritated when nobody answers a thread. Even though its warm year round compared to us, Im in Ohio, it still cools down to like 50 in Florida. Plus in the summer it gets well into the upper 90's. So in my un-expert opinion, yes they would still require a cool down before breeding.

Brad , thanks for the response, after talking with some other breeders, I have heard you could go either way for Brooksi Kings. I have bred many Corns without Brumation and produced several viable clutches.

Bill

Cool I had always heard that Kings needed the brumation to breed. This opens doors for me.

Some kings DO need brumation......Look at where they are from and the temps in that area.....If it gets cold in the winter they need brumation and a light cycle to reproduce....All mountain kings and Mexicana will not reproduce with out a brumation (55F for 90+ days) and a light cycle (no light)........
I've heard of Floridana, Easterns and Splendidas that reproduced without a brumation, but I wouldn't think for a second that all kings do not need brumation to reproduce....

Whats the difference in procedure for brumation versus non-brumation? I have a male desert king (Splendidas) and I want to start breeding him but Im sure he'd eat anything I put in there with him. Ive always heard to brumate kings so what would I do if I didnt have to?

First off....What are your Splendida's normal conditions?
His enclosure needs to have a temperature gradient.....85F or so on the "hot" side and room temp, 72F or so on the "cool" side.......
If all options are given to him with your husbandry he will eat......

Brumation occurs when temps drop.....
When temps drop your kingsnake will not eat and you would not want it to unless it has a Hot spot to digest its meal......

I would drop the temps (60F or so) in your snake room and keep a "small hot spot".....The snake will hang out on the hot spot to digest meals then return to the cool spot to conserve energy......The key is to feed the female lots around February as caloric intake will yield egg follicles......

Just for your information.....I brumate everything I work with.......

Thanks John this has put plans in motion for me to brumate him for next year. I appreciate the insight.