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bad temper

toddhowudoing

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i've got about 3 ft albino burmese female, that i cant get settled down, she will absoulty blow u out of the cage when u go to get her out. Even when u get her out she tries to eat u up. Ive had her for about 5 months now in a 40 gal breeder, temps and humidity are good. She was acting like she was settling in at one point then went berzerk again. She is handled about 3 times a week 20 to 30 mins a pop. tried the shirt trick helped somewha but not much. Has good hides log, and tree trunk. Not sure what else to do
 
Do you feed her in the cage? I would hold her more then 3 times a week seing the size they get if i were u i wouldnt a 14 foot pist of snake and they grow pretty quick. How often do you feed her ?
 
That doesn't seem like typical behavior for a burm. First off although she is small I would suggest a hook or something of that nature to let her know handling is coming in advance before your hands actually touch her. I would also not handle her for so long at a time. Try to keep sessions short and sweet, and never ever put her back because she has bitten or thrown a fit, put her back when she is at her calmest. You don't want her to learn that biting or throwing a fit gets her what she wants. Also how often is she being fed? Perhaps she is hungry and annoyed. Also snakes can be edgy and irritated if they have mites, so that may be something to look for. They can often be found hiding under the chin, around the eyes, and under scales. I would think you would easily notice those on an albino, but you never know. Does she strike at the tank when you walk by or exhibit aggressive/defensive behaviors at times other than handling? There are so many minor things that could trigger this type of response from a snake. Also I would actually handle her less often, maybe twice a week at max for about 3-5 minutes a pop, and as I said always end on a good note. Also does she act this way with everyone or just you? Some snakes just don't like certain people for whatever reason, so that is certainly a possibility. Another thing I suggest is never grab a snake behind the head, they hate that and many will get nasty when you get near their head in fear that you are going to do that again. Thats about all I have for you for the moment. Good luck...hope some of this helps. Dan M.
 
Cut down on the handling, try to reduce environmental stressors, and feed her. Also, double check the temps (ambient and hot) - this time of year, they have a tendency to creep up, so you have to stay on top of it. Elevated temperatures can really do a number on their "social skills"

You say you have had her for about 5 months - that would make for an awfully early hatch...is she an 06, or an 07. If she is an 06, refer back to my first sentence, and read the last part in bold faced capital letters: FEED HER
Just for the record, trying to force even more handling at this point is just silly. First, you get her to tolerate occasional, short handling sessions, then you increase either frequency or duration. There are some that advocate just pushing through this period "so the snake learns to accept it", but that is just stressful for both of you & will get you bitten a lot.
 
I agree, more handling isnt always the answer. Especially if it isnt being fed enough. (which I dont know that to be fact) Let us know how often you are feeding it, and we can either eliminate that factor, or focus on it.
 
fuscusking13 said:
never ever put her back because she has bitten or thrown a fit, put her back when she is at her calmest. You don't want her to learn that biting or throwing a fit gets her what she wants.


... are you kidding?

It's a snake, not a parrot or a puppy. All procedural memory, no concept of abstracts. They simply haven't got the brain required to learn in the manner you're suggesting.

Just flat out inaccurate, bad advice.
 
Seamus...have you ever owned snakes before...seriously. That precise method has worked for me for years and years be it with my personal animals or the hundreds upon hundreds of rescues I have worked with, and many others I know as well. I've actually heard this technique used with White lips especially, although I have never owned this species, or worked with one. Granted burms arent the sharpest tools in the shed, but it is a sound technique. Works very well with Retics, African Rocks, Bloods ect, never had an aggressive burm so I cant say that its a definate with them, but considering how closely related they are to rock pythons I dont see why it wouldnt. I have never ever been bitten by the same snake twice, so I am thinking its pretty solid. You can throw all your usual load of crap out there, but at the end of the day it works, I have done it with a 100% success rate, as has my friend who's been breeding various species for a long time(10+years). You can throw out some info you got from some study done in 1925 ect, but the fact of the matter is I have seen it proven time and again, and I am by no means the only person who has done this successfully. You are saying a snake can be hooked trained(which I dont think anyone who has owned a snake over 6 feet would dispute), but not trained in this manner??? Its the same thing, association. Sure they may not understand the why, but they know enough that if such an event occurs this will be the outcome. For example you touch them with the hook they know they are not eating. Its the same thing, if you put them back everytime they bite, biting equals getting put down, so they will keep it up. If you never allow them to make this association, you will not run into them biting for that reason alone. With reptiles its all about conditioning the response you want. I agree that the snake isnt a problem solving animal or even that smart, but they can be conditioned, and "trained" to some extent. Take care, Dan M.
 
feed

feed once a week she usaually eats 2 adult mice pretty regular going try to move her up to a small rat in the next month. i have 4 other pythons and 2 boas but this is the only one i have a problem with. Thanks for your help.
 
I 2nd Dan on this one. Why would you put a snake back after it bights after a while everytime u put it back after he tags you hes just going to realize that ,hey I'm going to bight him so he cant hold me and hell just put me right back and i wont be bothered. But in the end taking a couple bights to make the snake settle down I think is worth it. I personally would rather condition her now then try to wen she 10ft+. Dan is making perfect sense in my eyes. No inaccurate information coming from him what so over.
 
fuscusking13 said:
You are saying a snake can be hooked trained(which I dont think anyone who has owned a snake over 6 feet would dispute), but not trained in this manner??? Its the same thing, association. Sure they may not understand the why, but they know enough that if such an event occurs this will be the outcome. For example you touch them with the hook they know they are not eating. Its the same thing, if you put them back everytime they bite, biting equals getting put down, so they will keep it up. If you never allow them to make this association, you will not run into them biting for that reason alone. With reptiles its all about conditioning the response you want. I agree that the snake isnt a problem solving animal or even that smart, but they can be conditioned, and "trained" to some extent. Take care, Dan M.

Two very different situations and the conditioning is happening in a different direction.

Snakes are 100% instinctive behavior, associations can only be formed in relation to an action which has an instinctive basis. Hook training is not forming a positive behavioral association in relation to the contact from a hook... it's simply providing an alternative stimulus to the feeding association that some species will develop when there is a pattern of behavior where a feeding response is appropriate. It's the *abscence* of an additional stimulus, not an understanding of anything.

To put it a bit more specifically, feeding behavior, that initial open mouthed lunge when a bin is opened, are an association which develops over time when a stimulus (bin opening) can be intimately associated with an instinctive behavior (feeding strike) due to the repetition of the pattern of events. It's a behavior that lets snakes eventually reccognize things like game trails or good ambush spots near water and so forth. Hoom training just means opening a bin and then interacting with the animal using a tool, rather than providing food. You're not actually seeing a *new* behavior when the hook makes contact, it's just the animal reverting to a non-feeding behavior pattern because no prey item appears in response to the associated stimulus.

What you are now suggesting is that snakes are able to percieve an abstract behavior in another organism and comprehend the reasons behind it. And that allowing an animal to tag you multiple times would somehow retard that instinctive defensive behavior because the animal understands the thought process behind the human response... which is simply garbage thinking. That kind of association, one where there is no direct positive instinctual association requires sentience, it's a declarative thought that is judging the fidelity of an action based on a conceptualized and predicted response in another organism... Absolutely absurd to think a snake has that kind of cognitive ability.
 
Oh and... you're also completely ignoring the idea of instinctive responses shifting with age (which happens, to varying degrees, in most species) and the subtle changes a keeper will make in their handling approach as the person learns (consciously or not) the triggers, tendencies, responses and body language of the animal they are handling. Which are far bigger factors than your completely inappropriately applied theories about not letting them have their own way...

Again... it's not a parrot, a dog or a toddler. You can't assume the same reasons exist for a given behavior.
 
I think we are going to have to agree to disagree here. You make some great points, but some of it is not what I have seen over the years. You can throw tons of studies in my face and say that based on what scientist XYZ says it isnt possible, but unfortunately snakes dont get to read these studies and every single individual snake will react differently to the exact same stimulus. We all now that these studies findings get changed all the time. So with an animal such as a snake where we have just begun to scratch the surface of our understanding of them, you can not say anything is certain, because its not. What works for one will not work for another, its much more complicated. This has worked for me, maybe not for you, and thats great, but to say it is garbage because you have a different OPINION is innappropriate. It has worked for me and I am passing on to a fellow herper what has worked with hundreds of animals, he doesnt have to try it, it was a suggestion. He has other herps and is not a newbie from the sounds of it, so he can make his judgement call, but I would be willing to lay a couple hundred bucks on the line that I could have the burm calm and handleable in less than 3 months using the methods I suggested, every single snake I have owned was always handleable within 2 months time(most within 1-3 weeks), even wild caught adults. Anyways this is getting a bit off topic even though it has been a pleasure debating with you, have a great weekend all, Dan M.

P.S. On the subject of feeding her I would move her up to rats asap, and smalls to start for a few weeks and mediums soon thereafter(maybe mediums already, havent seen her so I dont know how big she is). It is not uncommon for a yearling female burm to reach 6-8+ feet, so if she is even close to that in age she should be larger. Good luck with her...I hope she gets better...if not my challenge stands :).
 
fuscusking13 said:
So with an animal such as a snake where we have just begun to scratch the surface of our understanding of them, you can not say anything is certain, because its not. What works for one will not work for another, its much more complicated. This has worked for me, maybe not for you, and thats great, but to say it is garbage because you have a different OPINION is innappropriate.

I am calling it garbage because "Let it bite you to prove it won't get it's own way" is stupid advice.

As to the whole... haven't scratched the surface thing... Maybe YOU don't know your ass from a hole in the ground about reptile behavior, but it's really, really not that complex. Plenty of things are certain, things you are apparantly ignorant of. You're taking a limited pool of antecdotal evidence, jumping on the first explaination that came to your mind and bulldogging it. Problem is that you're anthropomorphizing, applying the reasons and reasoning that applies to the way humans think and ignoring reptile physiology.

You pretty much summed it up when you called your position an "opinion" you have feelings, I have facts. You can throw out all the lines about agreeing to disagree that you like, but the simple truth of the matter is that you're wrong.
 
Well if I am wrong then why has it worked so well??? Also things are not certain. Up till a few years ago Parrots were said to not be able to do more than just repeat things and that was fact then, then along came birds such as Alex that proved these beliefs to be inaccurate in some cases. Reptiles are a much newer subject matter, and not enough concrete research has been done to even begin to ASSume we know all of it. Some still believe retics are not intelligent, and anyone who has owned them will tell you otherwise. Oh and by the way I have yet to see you throw out a single fact supported by anything other than your opinion, so I would put my money where my ignorance...excuse me mouth is if I were you. I am sure studies to back your points up exist from beyond 20/30 years ago, but those aren't always right anymore, more research gets done and we learn things everyday. Also I am not anthropomorphising, I am saying that it is a conditioned response, not that they understand whats going on. Unlike you I am able to think on my own and bank on my own experience, not just the research of some 1960's hippie who thought snakes were cool and "had it all figured out". If you can show me several studies from respected herpetologists, or any scientist for that matter, in the last decade even to back this up I will apologize and admit that I may be wrong, but for now here are some links to a study that kind of goes against what you say is certain, it highlights a snakes ability to associate and learn. Dan M.

http://www.rochester.edu/pr/releases/bcs/snake.htm
http://www.lasuerte.org/omesnakes.html
 
Opps!!!! Last post(chainsaw) is me.... I am over a friends and am using his machine....didnt even think I was on his name, sorry for any confusion... I realized right after I hit submit! Dan M.
 
chainsaw said:
here are some links to a study that kind of goes against what you say is certain, it highlights a snakes ability to associate and learn. Dan M.

http://www.rochester.edu/pr/releases/bcs/snake.htm
http://www.lasuerte.org/omesnakes.html


That doesn't go against what I said at all... and you're clearly not comprehending what I am trying to say.

They can reccognize patterns and form associations with behaviors that have an instinctive basis and a specific and clear positive result directly through their own actions. Bin opens, food shows up, bin opens, food shows up, bin opens, food shows up... Bin opens, the snake is looking for food. An association with an instinctive behavior that is already present. The two links to the same study you posted- the animals are instinctually looking to hide, the individual conducting the study provided a visual and tactile association with a hiding spot, repeat for an undisclosed number of times and you get reccognition. That's an association.

Your specific suggestion was to allow the snake to continue to make defensive strikes that landed because you believed that the behavior would be reinforced if you "let them have their own way" and that the behavior would be countermanded if the defensive strikes were unsuccessful in driving off the percieved predator. Thr problem is that the instinctive response is *already* to strike, that's the default state when confronted with a threatening stimulus, it can't become reinforced because it already exists as one of two very limited options. In order for it to be shown not to work despite strikes landing, the snake would have to be able to comprehend the consequences of it's behaviors on the behavior of another organism and they simply haven't got the ability to think that well. No association can be formed because the fidelity of the action cannot be understood.

I'm going to provide you with three far more likely reasons why you have seen a charge when using this... strategy... and chances are very good that all three have had parts to play in what you percieved to be a result of your "let it keep biting" theory.

First and foremost, we as people CAN judge the likely consequences of our actions, we can think of possibilities and change our behavior without the need for constant repetition before becoming successful. We do it constantly, both consciously and subconsciously and we adapt very readily in a very short time frame to situations. When our behavior provokes a defensive response in an animal, we end up percieving a lot more than we may realize... our body language and approach, small details about their responses, huge amounts of information and detail. When we go to approcah the animal again, adjustments are made in the stimulus WE provide, which in turn changes the response evoked from the animal we're interacting with. We learn them, they don't learn us. When we change our approaches, we change their responses but when we go to think about the differences, some shortsighted people only see the change in the animal's response, not their own behavior.

The second would be the way many species will have instinctive responses that change as they get older or are confronted with changing environments. Neonates often see a different set of prey species and a different set of potential predators, different behaviors are going to be more successful for the survival of the individual animal and as they age, those behaviors shift. It's genetic and instinctive so our captive animals will have behaviors that are intended to be a response to a predator species that doesn't exist within hundred or even thousands of miles. "I let it bite me for a year and then it calmed down" will often have a strong basis in the animal's behaviors changing as it ages. fewer predators or predator species for which a different response is appropriate... many animals will show a weaker defensive response as they age. Some species it's the opposite and some have no real discernable difference, it all comes down to what's appropriate to the things eating them in the wild. Add to that the animal's comfort within it's environment. When it's been in the same enclosure with the same hide and the same events going on outside of the enclosure for a period of time, it's going to be less inclined to display a defensive response as quickly. The stimulus that it percieves as a threat worthy of those striking responses becomes narrower when it has hiding as an option or when some of the secondary stimulus are no longer threatening. These are those "I got this snake and it was real nippy but I had it for X weeks and handled it and let it bite me (like a dumbass) and it calmed down." situations, the person percieves their poking it over and over as being a catalyst for the changes they have seen when it's far more likely that the animal is just settling into it's environment. This is also why you'll see some people reporting behavioral changes right after switching enclosures.

The third factor, which goes in both directions although not equally is general stress. Environmental stress usually lessens as the animal becomes familiar with it's environment. Settles down after shipping or working or the sensory bombardment of a pet shop or a show... The flipside to that though is that too much stress, overstressing, can push the animal right out the other side of that defensive behavior and result in them shutting off almost. That's usually coupled with things like dehydration or a poor caloric intake. This is also a very large and very negative aspect of your "Let them bite you so they see you're not scared" tactic. You keep interacting with them when they're stressed and defensive and don't allow them to escape the stimulus, you're basically breaking their behavior. And by breaking, I mean smashing and destroying in the least desireable way possible. Stressing an animal out until it simply stops responsing will make it quit biting... but it's not good for them by any means and only a real boneheaded jackass would suggest it in a positive manner.

The giant boids are all a bit defensive as neonates and juveniles- they have predators at those sizes and their response to threatening stimulus reflects that. People who know the animals know the approaches that are the least likely to provoke those responses and their animals can generally be handled with no real difficulties. The adults vary a great deal in what sort of response is appropriate to various stimulus. They're all apex predators in their environments, with nothing real inclined to eat them at full growth. Burms tend to be fairly mellow in response to anything that doesn't smell like food. 'tics are a lot more arboreally inclined and tend to be quicker to strike at a wider variety of stimulus, but a keeper who knows the species learns to avoid triggering those responses. African rocks come from an environment that is chock full of non-prey species that can step on and injure or kill them, they remain more defensive as adults as a result. Anacondas being largely aquatic are in the same situation as the 'tics, only more so- they exist in an environment where sensory imput is made lesser and they grab while the grabbing is good at just about anything that registers, which can also be avoided to some degree by an astute and experienced handler, but they have a reputation and they deserve it. Scrubs are even more arboreal than the 'tics and basically behave like giant chondros. The behaviors of snakes are not a conscious choice on their part, it's instinct modified very very slightly where an overt association can be made by pattern recognition. When confronted with 100% identical stimulus and a clear trigger, a wild individual will respond the same way as a captive individual (with an obvious allowance for the potential subtle changes inherent in genetic drift, the more closely related, the more aligned the behaviors would be).

Letting the animal in question repeatedly strike won't act as a catalyst for behavioral change in a positive way. Getting to know the species, allowing them time to settle in and sometimes just letting them get past their pissy juvenile stage are the avenues that should be explored.
 
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