Sean, the reason I was waiting is to see what other people would say silly!
We do things a bit differently here. We work with 3 separate groups annually and they are spread throughout the year. Remember, everything is in our home and timing is of the essence here. Too many breeding at one time and where in the world would I put them all? ok...
First, we'll screen the bloodlines, choose our matches/pairs and get weights about 2-3 months before the planned breeding. This way, we have plenty of time to make any adjustments in pairings and put some extra weight on them. We use as a guideline - 350 gram/1 year minimum on the females. Older females usually start to cycle on their own about the same time each year and we just watch them closely for the hints, allowing them to let us know when they are ready.
About a week before the expected cycle, we'll stop feeding them and offer water daily. While doing this, we leave the heat lights on so that they can digest any solids and pass them. We know they're clear when they have don't actually 'poo', but pass urates and water.
Once ready, we pull the animals from their cage and put them in a vented Sterilite bin on papertowels. No gradual light changes or temperature changes here. The bins are in my work area and also clear which makes for ease of peeking in on them many times throughout the day. During the cool-down period, we do not offer them food items, but check them often and offer water for hydration at least 2X weekly.
First year females are in cool-down for about 6 weeks and older animals for 8 weeks. There is always the exception though - if someone wakes up early and is active in the bin, we pull them out... as well as if someone is losing weight or 'off' in any way - we pull them out.
Once the 'down time' has lapsed, we pull them and move them into their breeding cages. Lights and heat at 14 hours. Again, nothing gradual.
Both males and females keep to the cool end for a few days and perk up and bask within a week. Normally, within days of deciding to bask, the male decides to breed.
And here before you is 4 months of our year...
V.
* Ive seen no difference in gradual cool-down and just pulling them for cool-down - we have done it both ways.
*Dragons kept at room temperature will not digest their food properly, if at all, and the fermenting food in their system can cause internal bacteria to spiral out of control. 'Bugs' can not only survive, but thrive, at room temperature. If your dragon isn't having consistent bowel movements to move the buggers out - they become a luxury condominium. A few years ago, we had before/after fecals done on a few animals - which showed a definite increase of coccidia through cool-down. Toss in the added stress of being chased around a cage by a male, poor appetite due to not feeling well and developing eggs - by the time her 2nd or 3rd clutch comes, you have a recipe for a mess.
