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Best Thermostat for single rack?

MattK

MattK

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I'm building my first rack for medium(4ft-6ft) snakes. I'm using 11inch flexwatt for back heat. What would be the most inexspensive and practical thermostat for this and where can i find it? So far the BAH-1000dc from big apple herp looks like it would be ideal. Just wondering if there are any better suited products?
 
I'd check out the Newtek Alife 1000 w Thermostat. It runs a little less than the Big Apple Herp one and has a lot of satisified customers out there. It's simple to use and I have yet to hear anything bad about it. I think you can find some positive reviews elsewhere here on the classifieds as well too.
 
I've been using Johnson Controls Thermostats from Reptile Basics for many years with no problems.
 
I'm using a ranco now, but I think a herpstat 2 would be great because I notice slight difference between my top shelf and bottom shelf. Two probes would help a lot IMO.
 
I agree with Nick (FocalX) on this one I run 2 thermostats well for 2 reasons but thats another story But yes two probes would help keep temps on the top and bottom shelf more at the same temp ( This is one reason why I run two thermostats)
 
The Alife Thermostats typically run less than $35.00 and as I said and many other satisfied users will agree, it's one of the best for the money.

Johnson's run from $80.00 to $105.00 depending on whether you are getting them pre-wired for night drop.

Ranco run from $60 to $150 depending on how they're wired and what model.

If you are ok spending the cash for a Johnson's or Ranco I would go ahead and spend a little extra for a top of the line Helix digital thermostat. Helix run in the $150 range and that includes the shipping.
 
I have a Herpstat ND. I believe you can pick up the green backlit Herpstat ND for about 130 shipped. The reviews and ratings for it were phenomenal. I dont know that I'll ever buy anything else. I give Spyder Robotics 5 stars. Good Luck!
 
I found my Ranco new and unwired for about $52 shipped off eBay. Wiring it is super easy adn when you DIY, you can cut, trim and use power cords of your own choice. It's great.

Something about a herpstat just screams pro though. I love the feel and look. I should be getting another shot at a herpstat 2 today if the deal works out.
 
Having two probes wold be great. I wish i had considered that when i bought mine. I also think that the Herpstat II is able to handle a good deal more watts. Can you get steady temps with the ranco(and the people who have johnsons, or any other on/off control?) That was the deciding factor for me, I read that it was too hard to actually achieve and maintain the temperatures.
 
I forgot the word, but it can hold at 1 degree intervals. So if it's set at 95 and you have the "interval" set at one degree, then it kicks on at 94 degrees and kicks off at 96. I measure right on the heat tape itself. The herpstat can be set at 0.1 degree intervals.
 
I installed a ceiling fan to eliminate the temp differences on shelf levels.

I use Helix for my incubators but in my opinion, it's overkill for a rack system.

I don't need the night drop since all of my heater outlets are on one master timer that operates 22 outlets in my snake building.
 
I went with the alife 1000. But now I can't get my flexwatt to heat up to the temps I need. This is my first time using heat tape but it seems pretty easy. The rack is kept in a little cooler part of my house so I set the temps a little higher but still won't heat up no where near hot enough. The sides and back are open on the rack for now. Could that be the problem?
 
MattK said:
I went with the alife 1000. But now I can't get my flexwatt to heat up to the temps I need. This is my first time using heat tape but it seems pretty easy. The rack is kept in a little cooler part of my house so I set the temps a little higher but still won't heat up no where near hot enough. The sides and back are open on the rack for now. Could that be the problem?
Click to expand...

That could be part of the problem. Is it back heat or belly heat? I have the back and sides sealed up on my breeder rack with belly heat and its fine. My hatchling rack has back heat with no back or sides and has to stay on MAX heat in the winter to hit 90 degrees on the hot spot. The back heat strip on the hatchling rack is framed with aluminum "L" beams and packed with insulation (4"x4') but thats the only backing. It helps direct the heat towards the rack.
 
The flexwatt is a specific wattage, yours may not be enough to do the job. Plug the flex directly into the wall for 10 minutes, that is how hot it will get MAX. if it is getting warmer than when plugged into the thermostat, the therm could be defective (but I doubt it). What is the width and wattage of your flexwatt? It will say the wattage printed in ink about every 12 inches, like 20w or 8w. You may need to insulate better.
 
So, I put sides and a back on the rack and lined it with aluminum held by the foil tape. I out the sides and back on around 5pm and its now 10pm and the temps are still not hot enough. I think the temp of the room that the rack is in is somewhere around 70. I have the thermostat set to 100 and still in the back half of the tubs are just slightly warm. I plugged the heat tape straight into the wall and it didn't heat up as much as I thought it would. It wasn't even anywhere near unpleasant to the touch. Do I have faulty flexwatt? I got it from reptile basics. Although, I ordered an extra foot just incase and was going to cut off what I didn't need but I ended up just folding it down on the top self as belly heat instead of back heat and the temps are fine for that self. Should I just order more clip sets and cut my flexwatt and use as all belly heat?
 
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