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best way to heat melamine?

And once it ignites, a thermostat won't stop the fire. You are hoping to keep temps low enough that it won't ignite.

Temp spike may be a result of of spark causing the ignition of a fire. If that happens, you're out of luck.
 
suzuki4life said:
You realize you said the same thing twice right?

I personally think the issue is that moisture gets in and causes a short. It can get old and brittle and burn on its own like regular wiring does. I personally feel sealing it off out of sight is a super bad idea because it will burn over time and become a fire ball if not caught.
Click to expand...

I don't get what you mean by me saying the same thing twice. I just was stating that some people say its ok to cover, others don't. I feel it should be covered, sealed, away from moisture etc. To each there own. We find out a lot in this industry that what works for some may not work for others.
 
So if the flexwatt is covered and sealed, where do you place the probe to get the right temps? I as well think that flexwatt works better without air exposure. When I left the back open on my ball python rack I couldnt get the tape to heat up very much. I added a back to it and compressed the flexwatt and it heated up a great deal.
 
I made a hatchling rack earlier last year and I ran a strip of 4" x 4' straight up and down and framed it with aluminum. Because air was exposed to both sides, it did not get hot enough and every shelf had fluctuations and different temps. I went back and packed the opposite side with insulation board and wrapped that same side with aluminum tape leaving only the one side exposed. The temps are now consistent and where I need them. I can say for a fact that flexwatt works a lot better when sealed on at least one side from my own experience. It gives the heat a direction to go and literally "radiates." So that's one idea I would suggest, maybe placing it on the inside wall.

As for it being completely sealed, I can see that being a problem for sure at max temps, but flexwatt is already sealed in plastic. At a low enough temp, I wouldn't see it being a problem to further insulate it. I would seal it with a temp probe inside though to make sure you are staying in an optimal range.
 
MattK said:
So if the flexwatt is covered and sealed, where do you place the probe to get the right temps? I as well think that flexwatt works better without air exposure. When I left the back open on my ball python rack I couldnt get the tape to heat up very much. I added a back to it and compressed the flexwatt and it heated up a great deal.
Click to expand...

There is an impression or groove in the wood, the probe sits right on the flex watt. This allows me to control EXACT temp of flex watt.
 
So if I cover the back with aluminum tape and tape it to the ceiling of the cage it should act as a rhp? I never thought of that. I would just use a rhp but tend to be a little on the pricey side. In a heat controled room if I use it on the ceiling I wouldn't have to keep it so hot that if a snake should touch it it wouldn't hurt them. I have a spare peice of 11inch 6ft long so ill give it a try and let everyone know how it goes. Thanks for all the info guys.
 
MattK said:
So if the flexwatt is covered and sealed, where do you place the probe to get the right temps? I as well think that flexwatt works better without air exposure. When I left the back open on my ball python rack I couldnt get the tape to heat up very much. I added a back to it and compressed the flexwatt and it heated up a great deal.
Click to expand...

Heat tape produces the same heat either way. You are seeing the difference between conduction and convection.
 
Focal X said:
I made a hatchling rack earlier last year and I ran a strip of 4" x 4' straight up and down and framed it with aluminum. Because air was exposed to both sides, it did not get hot enough and every shelf had fluctuations and different temps. I went back and packed the opposite side with insulation board and wrapped that same side with aluminum tape leaving only the one side exposed. The temps are now consistent and where I need them. I can say for a fact that flexwatt works a lot better when sealed on at least one side from my own experience. It gives the heat a direction to go and literally "radiates." So that's one idea I would suggest, maybe placing it on the inside wall.

As for it being completely sealed, I can see that being a problem for sure at max temps, but flexwatt is already sealed in plastic. At a low enough temp, I wouldn't see it being a problem to further insulate it. I would seal it with a temp probe inside though to make sure you are staying in an optimal range.
Click to expand...
you controlled, isolated and insulated the environment. The heat tape worked the same way.
 
MattK said:
So if I cover the back with aluminum tape and tape it to the ceiling of the cage it should act as a rhp? I never thought of that. I would just use a rhp but tend to be a little on the pricey side. In a heat controled room if I use it on the ceiling I wouldn't have to keep it so hot that if a snake should touch it it wouldn't hurt them. I have a spare peice of 11inch 6ft long so ill give it a try and let everyone know how it goes. Thanks for all the info guys.
Click to expand...

Aluminum tape in conjunction with your idea spells disaster.
 
What I did as I got a melamine cage 6 months ago. I took 2 large pieces of slate tile, stuck the UTH to the tiles, caulked real good around the heat pad then bought small pieces of wood to raise the heat pad off the tile just enough to let the heat escape. I also used linoleum for the bottom of the cage, one big sheet. And caulked around all the edges twice with waterproof caulk. Its been working great!
 
Johnstud56 said:
What I did as I got a melamine cage 6 months ago. I took 2 large pieces of slate tile, stuck the UTH to the tiles, caulked real good around the heat pad then bought small pieces of wood to raise the heat pad off the tile just enough to let the heat escape. I also used linoleum for the bottom of the cage, one big sheet. And caulked around all the edges twice with waterproof caulk. Its been working great!
Click to expand...

Do you ever find the linoleum hard to clean if you don't wipe it up immediately?
 
Johnstud56 said:
I use aspen over the linoleum
Click to expand...

I do too. Where it becomes a pain for me is if its pushed out of the way or if they spread it up the side of the enclosure. Do you use complete smooth linoleum or does it have small ridges or indentations? Know what I mean?
 
What do you mean if they spread it? The aspen shouldnt be wet... It wont stick then... I use one solid piece of smooth linoleum. If you make the aspen thick enough they wont get to the linoleum floor. I use about 12 quarts in mine.
 
Johnstud56 said:
What do you mean if they spread it? The aspen shouldnt be wet... It wont stick then... I use one solid piece of smooth linoleum. If you make the aspen thick enough they wont get to the linoleum floor. I use about 12 quarts in mine.
Click to expand...

Ok, let me explain. My caging is 5ft x 2ft on the floor, I use roughly about 4in of aspen. My female boas will "burrow" themselves down, that is when poo or urates gets to the bottom and sticks to the linoleum. What I meant by them "spreading" it, is when they poo up the side of the enclosure, either spreading it with there bodies or actually deficating with there tail going up the wall. It doesn't happen every day but it has. Other than those instances it has worked fine.
 
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