• In case most of you have not noticed, I made changes to the donation amounts as well as the durations for all of the paid membership levels. Things are winding down here, and this seems to be the most prudent way to deal with the "end of life" period of this site.

    Contributor level members - $10 per 30 days
    Sponsors - Eliminated
    Benefactor level members - $25 per 30 days
    Endowment level members - $50 per 30 days

    Account Upgrades Page
  • Responding to email notices you receive.
    **************************************************
    In short, DON'T! Email notices are to ONLY alert you of a reply to your private message or your ad on this site. Replying to the email just wastes your time as it goes NOWHERE, and probably pisses off the person you thought you replied to when they think you just ignored them. So instead of complaining to me about your messages not being replied to from this site via email, please READ that email notice that plainly states what you need to do in order to reply to who you are trying to converse with.

Breeding differences in balls and bloods

R

rwg19

New member
Joined
Aug 8, 2012
Messages
26
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Great Falls Montana
I am some what new to the breeding world of pythons and was wondering if there are any differences in breeding practices between ball pythons and blood pythons. I cannot seem to find much information on breeding blood pythons. Any information would be appreciated!! Thanks!! :)
 
IMO, the major differences are a lower tolerance for decreasing temperatures and humidity for bloods (esp WC specimens). I don't know how much success has been had with skipping the temp cycling in bloods, but I had the most success with erring on the cautious side (which I never worried about with balls).
 
While this was just our 3nd year and 2nd clutch of Blood pythons, meaning I am no expert by any means, I can tell you what we do. Reason for 3rd year of breeding is we tried unsuccessfully our first year because our males were too small.

We don't cycle temperatures, hot spot at 88F and room ambient in the mid 70's. We put the males in for 3 or 4 days and take them out for 3 or 4 days feeding both males and females on their second day out to give them a chance to digest their food. We also try to minimize the amount of light in the room during breeding. Unlike balls though, big males are just as important as big females.
 
Back
Top